Thermo Time Switch used with Remote Start Switch

[Iconic]

As it states in the Valve Adjustment Tour, "Attach one lead to the + pole on the battery and the other to the “G” terminal of the thermo time switch [Fig. 3b,c] to engage the starter.  This is by far the most convenient method.", I tried to use this method of connecting a Remote Start Switch.
When I connected the second lead to the "G" terminal and actuated the Remote Start Switch, I heard a solenoid or relay click, but he starter motor did not spin.
Maybe this wasn't smart, but I then connected the second lead to the "W" terminal instead of the "G" terminal.
The Remote Start Switch functioned as it is supposed to with the second lead connected to the "W" terminal. It works great this way.
What does this tell me about my Thermo Start Switch or ?

[Peter van Es]

I believe in one of the Pagoda Notes (Year 2 Issue 4) Alfred Esser posted a correction as follows:

When I tested my thermo time switch I noticed that it was different than what was described and then talked with Joe about it.  He informed me that the description was indeed the opposite of what it should be.  That is, the "W" terminal at the TTS is at ground and opens when the bi-metallic leaf is heated via the "G" terminal.

So it may be that what you found is an error in the Tech Manual or Valve Adjustment Tour rather than an idiosyncracy of your car. If anyone else can confirm, we can fix the Valve Adjustment Tour in the Technical Manual (http://www.sl113.org/wiki/Restricted/ValveAdjustmentTour).

Peter

[ja17]

Hello Iconic,

Do not loose any sleep over this, there seems to be a little confusion on these connections. It may require a bit more investigation, I am looking into the issue again.

[Iconic]

Thank you !
I'm in no rush on this issue.

[Peter van Es]

A member who has stopped posting after exactly 1000 posts (some of the old-timers around here will know instantly who I mean, and he is an authority) mailed me:

"He has his TTS incorrectly wired [Reversed]".

Peter

[waqas]

Please come back Arthur, we miss you!! 

[Iconic]

I have confirmed that I made an error. 
"G" is the correct terminal for using the remote start switch, as many of you already knew (thank you Arthur, wherever, whoever you are). The Technical Manual - Valve Adjustment Tour is correct. (thank you Peter for having some faith in me)
JA17, you probably don't need to investigate this further.
But, I would like to explain my confusion, because it might help someone.
In fact, the wiring diagram clearly shows that "G" is the correct terminal for successfully using a remote start switch. And, my wiring was not reversed, but, my understanding of which terminal was which was reversed.
My confusion lied in determining which terminal was "G" and which one was "W".
Please see the two pictures I've attached.
The pictures I saw in this website (in Valve Adjustment Tour and Thermal Time Switch in the Technical Manual) show the TTS with the "W" terminal having a straight piece (of plastic) adjacent to it and the angled piece of plastic adjacent to the "G" terminal as shown in my picture W-Left.jpg. When I saw the TTS in assembly on my car, it looked like my picture W-Right.jpg where the angled piece is adjacent to "W". I assumed/figured the "W" terminal was the one on the left, adjacent to the straight plastic (as opposed to the angled). You might have to pick up a TTS to understand how this can be, but needless to say, the correct way to determine which is "W" and which is "G" (when you can't see the "W" stamp on the terminal) is the "W" terminal is longer and uses a bolt with a 8 mm head and the "G" terminal is shorter and uses a bolt with a 7 mm head.
I don't feel very smart right now. I hope I can save a few people 15 or 20 minutes each in the future.
The angled plastic might be the source of the confusion on this subject for others.
Does this make any sense to anyone?
By the way, I did the full CSV / TTS voltage test and I got 5 seconds of voltage to the CSV, so it all checks out great !! I also measured the resistance at a temperature below 35C. It was about 60F (16C) in my garage. The resistance at "G" was 22.5 ohms and at "W" was 0.5 ohms. And, like I said, the TTS worked perfectly in assembly.
Mark