Heat control lever suppliers

[twistedtree]

3 of the 4 heat control levers are shattered on my '70 280 SL.  The wiper mechanism is also seized and the dash lights don't work.  I have to fix the wipers to pass inspection, so I figure I should tear the dash apart only once and address all the issues at the same time.  So I'm goin' in!

My question is about the different suppliers of replacement levers.  I see levers available from Autohaus made by Febi for $25 each, or $75 for the 3 that I need.  Then I see a set of 4 from Millers for $230.

I've read other posts talking about the different quality levels of both the original levers, especially those used in later US cars to meet DOT regulations, and also the quality (or lack thereof) of some of the replacements, but I can't correlate the feedback with the two sources I've located.

I'd welcome any feedback on the quality of the two sources, and of course any other recommendations of alternate sources.  This car is a "driver", so originality at any price is NOT the objective.

Thanks in advance

[mdsalemi]

Tree,

Mine came from Miller's about 10 years ago, and are of the later style.  That is, the black rubber protrusions are soft and flexible as opposed to rigid and firm.  The older and original rigid and firm ones broke as the plastic aged.  It happens on nearly all of them, (but I bet thelews has originals! )  They see to be fine--still flexible, and still work.

You would not actually consider changing only three now...best to change all 4.  Do it once, do it right.  Your 4th would break shortly after you got it all back together.  Don't forget to put new lamps in the assembly when you have it out.

[w113dude]

 It sounds like an electric problem, before you start tearing the dash apart, check wire connections at the harness for corrosion, this is something very common.
You wiper assembly may be freed by lots of lubrication from the top and bottom at the pivots, after lubrication let it sit for half a day then try again.

[twistedtree]

I'm pretty sure the spindles are seized up with rust.  This car was sitting outside for a long time.  When I activate the wipers I can see the sheet metal flex around the RH spindle suggesting to me that the motor it trying like h#ll to make them turn.  I've been soaking the spindles for a while now with no success.  Maybe I'll get lucky and they will break free before I start opening up the dash.  But eventually I need to do it anyway to replace light bulbs and heat control levers.

Good point on the 4th lever.  I was going to leave it original, but will now consider replacing it too.

Has anyone tried these Febi levers from AutohausAZ?  They are less than half the cost of the levers from Millers

[graphic66]

Here is a thread on a tool to help with the wipers. They can rust pretty solid. PB blaster and tap on the spindles if you can, that will help it soak in. Make up the tool if you are handy, I just slip a piece of rubber hose over the spindle and fill the tube with oil and let it soak in overnight, in your case fill it up with penetrant. Also I have seen the outer bushing start turning and the inner shaft still seized and the wipers will work but it is still seized, not good. I would put in my vote for the real cool clear plastic heater levers. They look great all lit up at night. Your heater operating cables are probably siezed and your linkage from the drivers side heater flap to the heater core water valve is more than likely not working. Be very careful here as you can break the lever on the heater flap, an expensive fix, or epoxy it. The heater motor also should be cleaned and some light machine oil worked into the shaft where it goes into the electric motor if you get it out. I could go on and on, but this has all been posted, search and ye shall find.

[twistedtree]

Brilliant tool idea for soaking the spindles!  I was trying to think of a way to submerge them, and that's it!  Maybe I'll be able to hold off on the dash surgery for a while after all.

My goal is to get this car road-worthy so I can really evaluate it's condition.  Once I'm confident of what's needed, then I can start digging into some of these optional tasks like heater levers.  I just don't want to spend a ton of time on heater levers only to find that I have a shot transmission, engine, or rear end once I get the thing running.  If that's the case I'll switch my focus to one of the car's brothers and put this one on the back burner.  I've already found the front end in urgent need of work.  The outer tie rod ends are about to let go they are so worn - I've never seen them so bad before.  And there is a lot of slop in the king pins and the front shocks are shot, so all that's on the list now too.

[ja17]

Hello,

I have recently done two heater control lever replacements.  Some of the new OEM parts being supplied are different even though they are coming from the original manufacturer.  As existing NOS parts supplies deplete you will probably find some problems with the newly produced parts.

First, the blue lever control was a different color blue and a lot less transparent it was almost opaque. No good solution unless you remove the new soft rubber part from the off color new lever and re-rivet it back onto the original blue lever.

Next, the grey levers have a raised bump which collides with the original speaker after installation.  If you closely study the original and the new grey lever, you will see the problem before you install. Grind the raised hump down as per the original. Everything works fine until you install the speaker at the very end of the job and then you find out you have a problem !! ..........or worse yet, you find out later as your driving down the road .