NOW SOLVED! Rear axle bush stuck (the hard one)

[jameshoward]

Joe, thanks for your view. That's a bit of a worry. The new axle is a complete mess; it's covered in rust. Everything possible that could have seized to it/rusted, has. Taking this thing apart has been hard work. I don't have the time to wire brush it, as I want to get the axle on and brakes converter (with the valve!) before the September event in Europe. I think I have to shot blast, but I'll pressure wash the thing to death afterwards. I'm hoping to remove all the gears, so it should be just the housing and tubes that go to the shop.

Separately, and more widely, I'm stuck. Again. This time, I can't get the UJ out of the housing/pumpkin and therefore can't get the crown wheel out. (I have removed the 8mm hex bolt, but it still won't shift). I've tried wood levers (all broken) and suspending the housing from an A frame by the UJ and hitting it with a mallet. Failed.

Any other ideas before I take it to the shop (to remove the bearings from the axle stubs that also won't shift no matter how many times we've bang them on wood; soaked, banged again, tried a home made puller, etc).

The good news is that I have lots of photos of the various stages that I've been stuck. I'll be able to write up the best step by stuck step post ever on how not to disassemble a rear axle!

Thanks,

James

[280SE Guy]

This is what the BBB calls for as a removal tool (for the slip joint):



I made this one up about 10 years (?) ago



280SE Guy

[jameshoward]

Perfect!!! Looks like just the ticket - both of them. Any idea where I can get one, as I'm pretty sure my skills and time frame don't stretch to making one up?!!

JH

[stickandrudderman]

You can have your parts soda blasted. This is much less aggressive than shot blast and the soda dissolves in water so you simply wash the parts after they've been blasted and there's no danger of shot contamination.

[jameshoward]

Stick,

Thanks. Know anyone around London who offers that, or is it just the case that people who do shot blasting all do soda blasting. I've never heard of it.

Also, I don't suppose you've got that excellent puller in the post, below?

James

[mbzse]

This is what the BBB calls for as a removal tool (for the slip joint)

That is a nice tool...
These fancy special tools that were inventory in accredited M-B workshops, and available to the
service mechanics in the sixties/seventies, always have an attraction for me (tool fetishist...?)

I have a M-B workshop binder set that illustrates this myriad of special tools... Just think how many
of these tools has been scrapped, as the cars gradually disappeared from daily use. I would have liked
to be in a workshop to take my pick, before it all went into the scrap bin

I have heard that instructions from M-B were, that the tools must be scrapped, not
sold/given to a general public. At least here in Sweden, this was the case.

Of course, if you have the tool making ability of "280se guy" you're ok anyway  
/Hans in Sweden
.

[tel76]

Pulling device 109 589 00 33 00 is not the puller for the removal of the U/J,the axle shown above is not from the w113,if it was you would see the U/J extending out of the housing.
I had the same problem and ended up making a simple tool out of flat one inch wide metal (bent to shape) and using threaded bar as the pulling medium.

[jameshoward]

Eric,

I don't suppose you have a picture of your device (a bad drawing would serve)? It would save reinventing the wheel, as having spoken to a few engineering shops this is looking like being a home fix!

JH

[DavidBrough]

Hi James,

If I remember rightly I think I used a slide hammer to remove mine.

[ja17]

Hello,

I have never really run across a stuck one.  Most of the time they just pull out. The tool looks great.  The slide hammer idea is a good solution also.

[tel76]

Hello James,
If you let me have your address i will send you the puller.
Hello Joe,
Yes, they are usually loose after removing the bolt,but if someone has used Loctite on the bolt(it is a long storey and i will tell it in the future) then you do require a puller because the Loctite has migrated around the splines.

[jameshoward]

Eric,

I've sent you an instant message. Many thanks for your kind offer.

I agree that the problem is probably locktite related, possibly linked to securing the 8mm bolt.

I've taken photos pretty much most of the way, so at least others will be able to see your design in action!

Can't wait.

Thanks again.

James

[jameshoward]

Just to close with my continuing adventures to remove 'The Bush' for the benefit of others who might attempt this task...

First, it's worth stating that this axle, in my view, sat for a long while on a knackered car. There was a large amount of rush on everything. One clear indicator of the state of play was the fact that part of a rear coil spring (broken off) had rusted to the plate on the trailing arm. It was a battle the whole way - everything has been stuck on/corroded. For what it's worth, I think someone has carried out perhaps a bearing replacement or something, because as Eric stated below (and thanks for the puller) there is evidence of locktite here and there. (And, actually, everywhere).

Anyway, yesterday we took the bearing to a machine works that has a 70 ton press in order to have one final go at the bush. With 4 tons of pressure on it, the bush remained stuck fast. We then applied oxy acetylene using a cutter (with gentle-ish heat) and after a few minutes there was a fairly explosive crack and it jumped. But we had to repeat this process about 5-6 times to shift the bush and get it free of the pin. (We pulled the wheel bearings at the same time to get the backing plates off for zinc plating - much easier).

In hindsight, I'd note the following. First, whilst some bushes might slide off, this one took 4 tons of pressure and heat at the same time, and even then it was a pretty involved process. Second, having cut the outer collar of the bush onto which the upright arm locks (which was under enough pressure to crack open and split the last 8mm or so of metal that remained uncut as I was hacking away with my dremel), then cut off the rubber, then tried for ages to get what remained of the bush to move, I would suggest to anyone who tries this again to just save the time and buy a new pin if their bush is truly stuck. I have spent hours trying to shift the bush. It retails for about 80 euros. (List that under the 'Things I Wish I Knew 3 Weeks Ago' thread).

I now just have the UJ to pull using Eric's tool, and then that's the whole thing in pieces. I'll document the rebuild, which hopefully will be less painful than the dismantle.

To end on a positive note, I found that notwithstanding that the exposed ends of the bush were tatty, the inside of the thing, as well as the rest of the rubber on the axle - but particularly the boot (one piece) which looked a bit questionable from the outside - was actually in very good condition and still very much fit for purpose. To that end, I'd suggest that the many who've read this thread don't really need to worry about the bush unless they have a real problem with their rear end. The bush I cut off was actually in excellent condition despite the fact that the axle had sat around for years, seemingly unused and just rusting away.  

My thanks to everyone who's helped along the way with this. I'm most grateful for the insights.

Now to powder coat the thing and order a great many parts...

JH