Here's some experiences from fellow-Pagoda owners I compiled over the years:
"I just put a new top on my car. I purchased it from Bill Hirsch, a Hemmings advertiser. I chose them because they supplied directions with the top. The directions weren't perfect but I was able to fill in the blanks. I am happy with the installation. All I want a top for is cover when the sun isn't out. It is a one day job for a professional.
My records show I spent about 20 hours labor, that included removing the top bows for cleaning and repair. It is not an easy job but it is do-able by a competent home mechanic/craftsman. If you decide to do it, I recommend taking lots of pictures during dismantle, unless you have a photographic memory."
"Don Czapski: the following information on the replacement and installation of a new soft top is mainly credited to Joe Alexander. I will add my experience to the information and hope that others will achieve the satisfaction that I did in doing this restoration job. As in many jobs, this one is probably 75% preparation.
If your soft top frame is in need of adjustment, now would be a good time to do this job. (I added shims where the frame meets the body of the car and this helped the mouldings to line up perfectly with the roll up windows) Dave M. (Anogoodnick) has written on this topic. Before starting, decide if you are going to replace the rubber seals and order them. The front seal above the windshield will most likely be destroyed during removal. The rear seal is easily removable but check for cracks and fraying ends. I used Weldwood contact cement with excellent results. It holds strong when dry, it's easy to work with and allows for just enough working time and repositioning if necessary. You can get everything you need at your local Home Depot.
Get one or two cheap 1" paint brushes and one 1/2" paint brush, some rags, contact cement thinner or lacquer thinner, some 2" masking tape, and a small container of adhesive remover especially for contact cement. Some heavy duty large garbage bags work well to protect your car (cut them open to make larger sheets). The first step is to remove the rubber seals and metal strips. You will need a small phillips screwdriver for this. Be sure to label everything you take off (use the masking tape to make labels). Keep the screws to each metal strip together, you'll forget where things go later. Make notes; for example, one of the screws for the side window moldings goes under the metal strip and must be screwed in prior to reinstalling the metal strip when the time comes.
Remove your old top. Loosen the nuts holding the side wires above the roll up windows. Measure the distance between the rearmost frame bar (the free floating one) and the (stable) frame bar foreward to it. Remove the old inner cloth strips and drill out the pop rivets to the front bar. I'm not sure what the function of the little elastic strips are, but replacements are available at any large fabric store. Use the plastic garbage bags and masking tape to protect your car.
Use the 1/2" brush and lightly dab on adhesive remover to remove the old glue. It takes only a couple of minutes to soften the old glue. Wipe off the old glue with rags. Use plastic gloves if you have sensitive skin. The important thing is to go very slow with this process. The old glue comes off very easily so take your time. Do not allow the adhesive remover to come in contact with any painted surface. You're now ready to get started with the installation.
Install the inner cloth strips, using your measurement for the rear frame bar. Compare this measurement to the corresponding inner seams of the top. Pop rivet the front bar in place. Lay your new canvas top on the opened, but unfastened, frame. Start at the front. Slide the side wires into the new top but leave them loose for now. The front wire fastener will be positioned right at the front hole with all of it hidden except the part where the screw goes through. Be sure to center the top from side to side. Apply glue to both surfaces with your 1" brush, working from the center outward. Pull the front beading forward and down so it is just at the lower edge of the front frame.
Pull snuggly to the sides until the bead rounds the corner of the front. Don't be afraid to pull the top loose and reglue if necessary until you have it right. When the front Use an awl to punch a hole for the first chrome screw which will goe through the fastener for the side wire and into the frame. Repeat the other side. The glue holds the fabric in position until the metal strips are installed. When you're happy with the front fit, install the metal strip along the front. Use an awl or ice pick to locate the screw holes in the frame. Don't install any rubber mouldings until the very end of the job.
Fasten the front frame down to the car. Do the rear bow next, using the same procedure as the front. Start in the center and work your way outward. Pull the bead down so the top will lay nicely against the car. Allow for some slight stretching back later. Install the metal strip. Fasten the rear bow to the car. If the top is too tight, loosen the front fasteners, attach the rear first and then fasten the front. Have an assistant help pull the frame forward so it can be fastened. Take a break.
Next, do the sides. Roll the windows up and down from time to time to check alignment. You may want to glue the side rubber liners to the top now (the thin weather seals between the frame sides and top). I installed mine at the very end, but it was a little tight. These weather seals are installed with the large end fitting into a pocket in the front bow. The thin flat edge of the seals lays against the top of the frame acting as a "weather strip." The flat side of the strip is glued to the top along the inside edge of the black canvas. Pull the side wires snug and fasten the nut to hold the sides down tight. Disengage the rear bow from the car. Apply glue and pull the sides down tight and forward.
Install the metal strips. Fasten front and back frame bows to the car. Check window alignment. Next, glue the inner fabric strips to the frame. Protect the inside of the car with plastic sheets. Start with the front bar. Glue the flap furthest to the front of the car first, gluing it towards you, then glue the flap closer to you overlapping the other flap. This will hide the glue edge and look nice. Do the opposite for those flaps behind you so that you don’t see the glue edge. Glue the flap furthest from you first, and then overlap with the flap closer to you, and, therefore, the visible flap. Trim excess canvas material and install the rubber mouldings. I didn’t use any glue on the rubber mouldings except the front. Now, stand back and be proud.
Keep in mind that: The fabric will stretch during the first few weeks of usage. Do not be afraid to pull things apart and reglue. Lacquer thinner will remove minor glue accidents from the fabric. If you have questions, please contact me or Joe Alexander. I hope that I didn't forget anything."
Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic
