Author Topic: Critical Oil Filter Seal  (Read 6232 times)

ja17

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Critical Oil Filter Seal
« on: April 04, 2012, 02:06:08 »
Just finished an oil change on a new W113 customer. The old oil was really really dirty. No wonder, the oil was not being filtered !  The  upper filter seal was missing (often the case).  All you new guys to the forum beware of this seal which is often missing. Lots of information on this site on this subject. Look it over, it may save you an expensive re-build.
« Last Edit: April 04, 2012, 02:47:26 by ja17 »
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

J. Huber

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Re: Critical Oil Filter Seal
« Reply #1 on: April 04, 2012, 02:39:27 »
Very sage advice from JA17 there. I remember hearing this years ago and like most of you, went out and checked! Mine was there but not in the greatest of shape... so I replaced it. Many years later, I still take a peek each time I do an oil change. Not easy to see from a ground change but worth the effort.
James
63 230SL

Benz Dr.

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Re: Critical Oil Filter Seal
« Reply #2 on: April 04, 2012, 05:00:36 »
It is good advice.  The seal will harden over time and actually fall off when you remove the oil filter. If you don't know it's supposed to be there, well.... you siimply wouldn't, and it could go for years like that.
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC

Jonny B

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Re: Critical Oil Filter Seal
« Reply #3 on: April 04, 2012, 15:29:45 »
After a time don't forget to take a look at the seals in the bottom of the oil canister. I finally got around to changing mine, they were almost as hard as the aluminum case! I got an old canister to try, and after filing a notch in a punch (to make better contact with the little metal ring holding it in place) I was able to punch out the metal ring, and replace the bottom gasket and the small o-ring that is inside the metal holding piece. I did it by inserting the punch from the bottom of the oil filter housing, so you can make contact with the metal ring. I worked my way around, just tapping, tapping, tapping, then perhaps a bit more forceful whack, and it popped right out. It is easy then to use the the punch to reform the metal, if you deformed it all, and then fit it back together.
Jonny B
1967 250 SL Auto, DB 568
1970 280 SL Auto, DB 904
1966 Morris Mini Minor

glenn

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Re: Critical Oil Filter Seal
« Reply #4 on: April 04, 2012, 15:55:32 »
PPP  Precautionary Pagoda Preventive of engine failure.  Bet over half of these filters have been missing this seal at one time or another. ..
With this seal, valves adjusted, and running under 3500 rpm  - engine lasts forever(?). .. 

280SE Guy

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Re: Critical Oil Filter Seal
« Reply #5 on: April 04, 2012, 17:03:38 »
Joe,

Good advise and nice picture. I just hope you didn't remove the engine from the car just to change the oil  ;D

Regards,

280SE Guy

Bob

Sent from my laptop computer in the garage, home of Anthracite.

1971 280SE, 6 Cyl MFI, Anthracite Grey with Grey MB Tex

ja17

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Re: Critical Oil Filter Seal
« Reply #6 on: April 04, 2012, 21:48:51 »
Hello Bob, 

No engine removal required for this picture. It is just one of hundreds of pictures take during Alfred's engine re-build. I figured it was a good opportunity to stock up on discussion photos! You'll be seeing more for years to come.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

Benz Dr.

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Re: Critical Oil Filter Seal
« Reply #7 on: April 04, 2012, 22:22:44 »
Normal cylinder wear is about .001'' per 10,000 miles of driving. Max cylinder wear is about .015'' or .007'' on each side of the cylinder before things start flying apart. That should be about 150,000 miles but few engines ever go that far.

 I find most are worn out somewhere in the 100 - 130, 000 range. The cylinder head will wear out faster with the valve train taking the most abuse. So no, they don't go forever, but they do go for a long time with proper care.
The way most of our cars a driven today they should out last all of us.
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC

ctaylor738

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Re: Critical Oil Filter Seal
« Reply #8 on: November 12, 2012, 16:17:10 »
I just installed this seal on my 280 project, so I'll contribute the following - PN 000 184 33 80, $3.95 list.
« Last Edit: November 14, 2012, 01:46:48 by ctaylor738 »
Chuck Taylor
1963 230SL #00133
1970 280SL #13027 (restored and sold)
1966 230SL #15274 (sold)
1970 280SL #14076 (sold)
Falls Church VA

glenn

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Re: Critical Oil Filter Seal
« Reply #9 on: November 14, 2012, 00:37:06 »
Re:Critical maintenance items----   1.Oil filter seal check at regular oil changes.  2. Grease all 14,285,671 grease fittings(particularly king pins).  3. Oil wiper shafts.  4. Adjust valves/crank cam timing.  5. Seal/repair rust spots.  6. On and on. ..