ATEC (Brake) Booster

[n/a]

 :?: The booster on my 1965 230SL is definitely not working. I get an engine speed change while braking so vacuum is venting somewhere. The P.O. turned the check valve around to conceal the leak. (cheeky monkey!)   Any point in cracking this nut open? Any serviceable parts inside? If so, source for perishable bits?
Much Thanks
in advance. BB

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BBAY

[Benz Dr.]

Nah, get a used one. Most old cars use the same unit and they rarely fail to begin with. I put a vacuum test on the inlet and draw a vacuum on it. If it holds vacuum it's probaly going to work.

Daniel G Caron

[n/a]

Thanks for the tip. This one leaks around the input shaft and boot only when the pedal is depressed. Any idea which other models use the same booster?
Thanks
BB

BB

[rwmastel]

BB,

If you are interested in your car being as original as possible, look for a date (month/year) stamped on top of the booster.  Mine had one.  If it's there AND originality makes a difference to you, then you might want to get it rebuilt.  Otherwise, replacement is the way to go.

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[TA250SL]

I've mentioned this before, but I had my brake booster rebuilt by Vanco Power Brake Supply in South Gate, California, near Los Angeles.  They rebuild almost any power brake booster and can be reached at 323-563-1588.

Tom

[Richard Madison]

Did you post this question just so you could show off your great engine compartment? )

Jealous,
Richard M

[Benz Dr.]

What makes you think it isn't working? Do you have any brakes at all? If it's not working I'd think the pedal would go hard.
Did you do avacuum test where the line goes on? There's a certain amount of air that enters the back of the booster when you hit the brakes - that's normal. Engine may raise in RPM but shouldn't stall.

Daniel G Caron

[n/a]

Daniel:
     I assume that it is not working as I have a very hard pedal and the rest of the braking system is new. When I apply a constant vacuum to the booster, it holds it until the pedal is depressed, then I pick up a hiss on the atmosphere side of the diaphragm (at the point where the input shaft enters at the boot. I imagine that the diaphragm is rotten as I detected brake fluid within the vacuum side of the booster when I installed the new master cylinder. I just prefer to fix rather than replace as it gives me an opportunity to tear something apart and see what makes it tick. Of course, if no replacement diaphragms are available to the public (if they're being rebuilt, then repair parts are available to the rebuilder it would seem), then there's no point is cracking it open.
Regards
BB

BB

[Longtooth]

I had my original ATE T51 Booster (from '67 250SL) rebuilt 13 months ago by

Power Brake Exchange   
260 Phelan Ave.   
San Jose, CA 95112   
408-292-1305
Ask for Mike.

Cost less than $200. No probs.

Recommend YOU carefully remove the ATE decal before you send booster for rebuild... otherwise they'll discard it... fortunately I was there (I was a walk-in customer) when they were starting to rebuild it and noticed they were going to rip the decal off... so I was able to intervene.

Longtooth
67 250SL US #113-043-10-002163
95 SL500