Engine cleaning

[hauser]

Any tips on how to clean/degrease the engine?  I bought this citrus cleaner a while back just for this task.  What do I want to avoid getting wet, what should I cover/wrap in plastic?

1969 280sl 5 spd
Gainesville, Fl.

[Kenneth Gear]

I cleaned my engine recently and instead of a hose, which makes it hard to control where the water goes, I used a pressurized spray bottle.  The kind often used to apply pesticides.  (I bought mine at Home Depot for around $15)

I sprayed on the cleaner, scrubbed a bit with a brush and rinsed with the spray bottle.  I didn't get the benefit of high pressure rinse but I was also easily able to control where the spray went..obvisouly I tried to stay away from electrical components.

The result was a fairly clean engine.

Ken G
1971 280 SL
Silver/red

[J. Huber]

I have tried the pressure washer way -- and was pretty nervous doing it. I put heavy-duty ziploc bags over distributer and coil area. I also wrapped my ignition wites with a trash bag. I fired some gunk every where I could see (avoided rubber where I could) and then went for it. Did some shooting from the top but more from the bottom... A lot of 40 years of crud came off. My fear was I'd be stranded at car wash if car didn't start. But it fired right up! Overall, a scary operation -- but it did knock off the big stuff.

James
63 230SL

[Malc]

If you are a "rough old Bast**d" like me you do the following..

• Run the car around till its nice and warm
• Open the bonnet while it is still running
• Attack with a steam cleaner

You will be amazed at the results.

Do avoid direct "blasting" of the distributor.
Use a steam cleaner, one that generates heat as well as pressure, rather than just a pressure washer.

THis is my standard method of attack on the rally car after competing in stages, never had a problem, except that the windscreen sometimes steams up  

Standard practice in garages when the "punter" isn't looking (sorry)

Malc

[Bob G ✝︎]

Engine cleaning can be a nerve racking service. When ever it is needed prepare for the unexpected. Wrap and back electrical components that can get moister in side them. I recommend a solvnet gun by snap-On to apply a spray of warm water to rinse any cleaners off components you have to clean . Let the clear dwell long enough to loosen up cruda and caked on grease I recommend a soft to firm parts brush any auto parts store has them. After rinsing us a shoot of compressed air to blow out spark plug holes and electrical components . Lubraicate the linkages with ATF transmission fluid and apply a silone dressing to hoses by hand and a cloth.
A word of caution: Do not use Delamoline cleaners on the firewall mat unless you want to chase it down the street after hoseing it down. D'lamoline is a solvent that is too harsh for this engines and will take the color off the aluminun and fuel injection lines.
For themost important part always think ahead nd do not rush to judgement.
Bob Geco
Auto detailing since 1970

[Benz Dr.]

i guess I'm one of those scarry old buggers that has to get it done quick and dirty.

I run the car hard on my way to the car wash. Open the hood and attack everything with hot soapy water - wires , hoses, spark plugs you name it. I do try and avoid the distributor but a bit of water on it should be no problem if everything is tight. Close the hood and continue cleaning the rest of the car. By the time I'm done the heat from the hot water and engine usually has every dried off.
They always start, especially newer cars. If they don't, I carry a few dry rags and some spay lube to chase any moisture. In this case the ignition system needs work anyway if they won't start. The clips on the distributor cap are the first suspect as they're usually not strong enough to hold the cap tight and let water in - the main area that can stop you.

Dan Caron's
 SL Barn
benzbarn@ebtech.net
 slbarn.mbz.org

[Malc]

Glad to know I am not the only rough one out there  
Bob makes good points though, lubricating all the links etc after doing the job. Avoid anything that will be blasted apart by the pressure.

I use the steam cleaner feed to add alittle TFR (Traffic Film Remover)if there is a lot of oil about otherwise just hot water which seems to remove 99.9% of the crud


Malc

[n/a]

Getting ready to clean my engine for the first time. Recorded all the good advice from this board about bag over the distributor and the use of gunk cleaners, etc.  Like to have some advice on cleaning the bottom of the engine - a lot of gunk down there. How do you spray the bottom with the cleaner? I am going to a do-it-yourself cleaner with a bottom spray.  What is a steam cleaner?

Louis 70 280sl auto red

[norton]

I don't think you would want to use the citrus cleaner on any polished aluminum, it could etch or stain it.

Mike Halleck
Chesterfield Mi
71 280SL
68 250SL (parts car)
94 E320 Coupe

[TheEngineer]

I clean the engines on all my cars from time to time. I like to have a clean engine bay even more so than the outside of the vehicle. It's done pretty much the same way as Dr. Benz describes but after washing, I take the cap off the distributor and wipe the inside dry & clean using a paper towel. When I have had problems starting it was always water inside the distributor cap.

[Ben]

Yep I'm with Dan and Malc on this one, I've been doing this on my SL for 4 years and 40,000 miles with zero problems !

I tend to use a light swarfega and just brush it onto the heavy crap directly and work it in. Other than that WD40 will loosen oily mess, or "Gunk". Not sure how environmentally freindly the above products would be and since all my CAD plating is long worn off I dodnt need to be that fussy !

Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.