Author Topic: underdash panels? (Read 38662 times)

waltklatt · « **on:** October 26, 2006, 14:56:38 »

Have a question to ask.
The underdash panels-how do they fit in with the dashpad underneath? Do you loosen the screws for the dash pads and slip the panel between the dash metal and pads? Or should there be seperate screws in the metal to hold the panels tight against the pads(not loosened)?
Maybe one could help me solve this puzzle. The 220SL did not have underdash panels and I have a set to install, but am at a loss to the proper installation.
Thanks in advance.
Walter Klatt
1967 220SL-diesel

George Des · « **Reply #1 on:** October 26, 2006, 16:10:11 »

Walt,

Good seeing you and the 220Sl over at Tom's last weekend. My 67 230Sl originally had the underdash panels installed. I removed all three during my restoration and have not put them back in--yet. When I do I will only put in the one on the drivers side since I have installed a Frigiking A/C unit and this occupies the space under the dashe where the other two would normally go. On my original set-up, the three underdash panels butted against the rear edge of the underdash pads and screwed into the thin metal strip exposed after the pads are installed. Also on each of the the footwell underdash panels there was a courtesy light that screws through the panel and into this same metal strip in order to complete the electrical ground. I'm not sure how those with A/C installed fit the courtesy light on the passenger side since this is where the A/C evaporator box sits. Hope this helps.

George Des

Vince Canepa · « **Reply #2 on:** October 27, 2006, 05:47:39 »

Mine has the original under dash pads. They butt up against the upholstered "knee bolster". Small phillips head screws with a captive flat washer screw into the actual dash structure, of which about 30mm is exposed forward of the "knee bolster" before the under dash pads are fitted.

The only courtesy light on my non-A/C car is the one below the cigar lighter.

Vince Canepa
1967 250SL
113.043-10-001543
568H Signal Red
116 Caviar MB-Tex

Tom230sl · « **Reply #3 on:** October 27, 2006, 13:01:49 »

so how do they attach on the other (firewall) side?
pics?

thanks,
Tom

J. Huber · « **Reply #4 on:** December 29, 2007, 22:45:26 »

Reviving this because I need a push... thinking about replacing my underdash panels. Mine fell apart years ago (and one section was missing anyway)... I have hesitated -- I don't know why. Should I make them my first R & R item of 2008?

Has anyone bought new ones lately? Where & How mucho? Quality?
What hardware will I need? Obviously I have none.

And to follow up Tom's question -- any good pics of how the attach? I figure with all the carpet/paint repair going on, someone might have just done these...Thanks all.

James
63 230SL

Cees Klumper · « **Reply #5 on:** December 30, 2007, 02:38:32 »

I bought a new set at Van Dijk's a few years ago. I have attached them as per George and Vince's tips however this only covers the nearest edge - particularly the passenger side one does not seem to want to stay in place at the farthest end (where the feet rest). I keep on pushing them up against the carpet and wedging them in that way, but they keep dropping down. So maybe the fit combination between the new panel and the carpet is not 100%, or is there something else that should keep the far edge snug?

Cees ("Case") Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

jameshoward · « **Reply #6 on:** December 30, 2007, 09:21:42 »

I did mine a few month ago. It's not a hard job, in fact it's very easy, but like most things with these cars falls more under the 'art' heading. You just need the panels, a drill and the requisite number of screws and chrome washer type things that hold the panel. Make sure you get the correct panels: i.e left/right hand drive, and I think there are differences for cars with AC, etc. I got mine from SLS and they're fine. Much like Cees, mine did not fit perfectly. The centre panel sort of sits there, whilst the flanking ones took quite a bit of bending and screwing about (i.e screwing the panels on and off and moving the holes around) to get them to stay in place. But it isn't hard.

JH

thelews · « **Reply #7 on:** December 30, 2007, 11:14:44 »

Since a picture is worth 1000 words, here are 4000. These are the original factory panels that Vince refers to in his post below. I own the car now.

John Lewenauer
1967 Early 250 SL Red/Caviar, Manual

Peter van Es · « **Reply #8 on:** December 30, 2007, 17:09:12 »

John,

I notice the pictures you are including are being hosted from Flickr. Whilst that's good, it does mean that if you delete these pictures from Flickr or lapse your account, they'll be lost forever.

How about adding this information and uploading the pictures to the technical manual? That way we can keep this valuable info for posterity.

Peter

1970 280SL. Also known as 'admin@sl113.org' and organiser of the Technical Manual.

J. Huber · « **Reply #9 on:** December 30, 2007, 17:17:43 »

All very helpful guys. Thanks. And yes John, pics are worth big bucks in my book. Double thanks.

Well, naturally prices have gone up since the last time I entertained this idea. Dang. Still there is quite a variance in cost:

Miller's quotes 169
Bud's quotes 250
SLS looks like just under 100 Euros. (how much is that in US?)
K&K doesn't show them in the online catalog. I will ask tomorrow.

And if I counted right: there are two screws with washers on panel 1, three screws on panel 2, and 4 screws with washers on panel 3. (left to right)

James
63 230SL

thelews · « **Reply #10 on:** December 30, 2007, 17:18:02 »

quote:
Originally posted by vanesp

How about adding this information and uploading the pictures to the technical manual? That way we can keep this valuable info for posterity.

Peter, I tried displaying pictures uploaded to the club website and then in the [img] html command without success. Compared to other forums software, displaying pictures here is more difficult, not complaining, just relating my experience. You, or anyone else is more than welcome to download any of my 250SL pictures from flickr and upload them to the tech manual. I haven't done that yet. Please let me know if that works for you. http://www.flickr.com/photos/8292359@N06/ I'm happy you find them useful. Pictures answer many questions, often raise more and are best viewed when visible right in the post with the dialog the author has provided.

John Lewenauer
1967 Early 250 SL Red/Caviar, Manual

thelews · « **Reply #11 on:** December 30, 2007, 17:21:25 »

quote:
Originally posted by J. Huber

A
And if I counted right: there are two screws with washers on panel 1, three screws on panel 2, and 4 screws with washers on panel 3. (left to right)

Panel 1 has a third screw with a washer behind the floor mat at the firewall, like the two on the third panel.

John Lewenauer
1967 Early 250 SL Red/Caviar, Manual

J. Huber · « **Reply #12 on:** December 30, 2007, 17:25:36 »

Thanks! I am hoping I can still see the screw holes from my originals now that I have an idea where they are... If I can find a decent price on the panels!

James
63 230SL

thelews · « **Reply #13 on:** December 30, 2007, 18:29:30 »

quote:
Originally posted by J. Huber

If I can find a decent price on the panels!

You may want to consider making your own. From the 190 SL forum, a highly respected upholstery guy recommends this board for kick panels for the 190 SL. Lebaron Bonney ...part # PB20DGRY
http://www.lebaronbonney.com/osc/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1597&osCsid=8480a7e3333ed1e7683b2b5a28bc2f7e
http://www.lebaronbonney.com/osc/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=205&osCsid=8480a7e3333ed1e7683b2b5a28bc2f7e
It's very similar to the underdash panel for the 113. Trace templates from your original, use an adhesive spray to tack on the foam and you're set. Here's a picture of my 190 SL kick panel and what the board should look like.

John Lewenauer
1967 Early 250 SL Red/Caviar, Manual

J. Huber · « **Reply #14 on:** December 30, 2007, 21:49:12 »

Hey John, very intriguing and the price sure seems right. If I were to go that route -- we'd need to move this thread over to R & D...

One obstacle will be that I only have the center and the passenger side to trace. I might need a picture or some measurements of the driver's side. In fact, I'd love to see all three laid out since mine are pretty worn.

The second obstacle might be recreating the "flip groove" on panels 1 and 3.
But I guess it could be done.

Another question: my old passenger piece seem bowed -- were they all relatively flat when new?

BTW I did redo my kick panels a while back. I used a piece of oil painter's board and covered it with the extra MB TEX from my dash recover. So my car is no stranger to non-traditional trimmings!

James
63 230SL

jameshoward · « **Reply #15 on:** December 31, 2007, 01:52:51 »

James,

They come flat when new - from SLS at least. Like I send, they take quite a bit of bending in some places to get them to fit. They are also 'scored' in the right places to help with the angles. Look at the photos again and you'll see what I mean.

JH

Peter van Es · « **Reply #16 on:** December 31, 2007, 05:37:48 »

quote:
Originally posted by thelews

Compared to other forums software, displaying pictures here is more difficult, not complaining, just relating my experience

Full instructions that work for most people are here: http://www.sl113.org/forums/faq.asp#GetForum

The suggestion of you adding to the Technical Manual is a serious one: it is meant to be a group effort. There aren't enough hours in the day for me to do that single handed...

Peter

1970 280SL. Also known as 'admin@sl113.org' and organiser of the Technical Manual.

thelews · « **Reply #17 on:** December 31, 2007, 07:03:23 »

Jim, as you can see in the picture, the passenger panel is flat, they all are. If need be, I can remove the driver's panel and take some pictures for you with measurements. Your two panels, however worn, should be adequate for a template. Perhaps someone on the forum here has all their panels out and can trace some templates for you.

John

John Lewenauer
1967 Early 250 SL Red/Caviar, Manual

sjiatrou · « **Reply #18 on:** December 31, 2007, 09:45:15 »

John:
I am missing the driver's panel (LHD) so any pictures or measurements would be great!

Thanks,
Steve

quote:
Originally posted by thelews

Jim, as you can see in the picture, the passenger panel is flat, they all are. If need be, I can remove the driver's panel and take some pictures for you with measurements. Your two panels, however worn, should be adequate for a template. Perhaps someone on the forum here has all their panels out and can trace some templates for you.

John

John Lewenauer
1967 Early 250 SL Red/Caviar, Manual

Steve
Seaside, CA
1964 230sl roadster
White (050)/Black (116)

J. Huber · « **Reply #19 on:** December 31, 2007, 12:22:05 »

I really like the idea of someone with relatively fresh panels laying them out and making a template. I'd gladly pay for materials and shipping (which wouldn't be much probably).

And James, that scored part is one of my worries. On my old one that piece eventually fell off from all the bending.

James
63 230SL

Paddy_Crow · « **Reply #20 on:** December 31, 2007, 15:46:32 »

I will have mine out ('66 230 SL) sometime in the next month or two. I would be willing to make a template for someone.

Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch...

thelews · « **Reply #21 on:** December 31, 2007, 18:01:40 »

Happy New Year!

ALL DIMENSIONS IN INCHES

This is the driver side panel...

John Lewenauer
1967 Early 250 SL Red/Caviar, Manual

J. Huber · « **Reply #22 on:** December 31, 2007, 19:51:21 »

Wow. Thanks John. Same to you! Well, I ordered a panel today so it looks like I'll be giving the "home-made" version a try...

Need to find some foam backing and the best way to cut the various nooks and crannies. Wish me luck! (and Steve if I have enough left over for a second driver's panel, its yours!)

PS don't let this discourage anyone from making a handy-dandy template! I am much better at tracing than I am at mechanical drafting...

James
63 230SL

thelews · « **Reply #23 on:** December 31, 2007, 20:02:20 »

quote:
Originally posted by J. Huber

Need to find some foam backing and the best way to cut the various nooks and crannies.

You should be able to find acceptable foam backing at just about any fabric store. The foam is 7/16" thick, go 1/2 rather than 3/8 if they don't have 7/16. Use a very sharp EXACTO knife to cut, starting with the broad cuts and then working your way in. For the curved indentations, first cut them as rectangles and then round the corners. Don't expect to cut through on one swipe, it may take a couple or more for a nice clean cut. Cut from the finished side. Have a good straight edge to follow and TAKE YOUR TIME. Good luck and be sure to show us your result! The paneling is 1/8" thick.

John Lewenauer
1967 Early 250 SL Red/Caviar, Manual

sjiatrou · « **Reply #24 on:** December 31, 2007, 21:12:40 »

John:
That's a great picture with dimensions, thanks!

James:
Where did you get your panel? I contacted Labaron-Bonny (see link below) but the shipping was a bit steep so I opted out.

Happy 2008!

Steve

Steve
Seaside, CA
1964 230sl roadster
White (050)/Black (116)

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Author Topic: underdash panels? (Read 38662 times)

George Des

Vince Canepa

Tom230sl

sjiatrou

Paddy_Crow

sjiatrou