speedo removal

[nick350]

does anyone know a step by step way to remove my speedo? I need to clean the glass on the inside and the bulbs. I dont have any special tools.

thanks a lot

[mdsalemi]

I am saddened to report that our friend Roman Bartl is the expert in this area, as due to a bunch of issues has had his in and out more times this year then most mechanics do in a lifetime.  Hopefully he'll weigh in here.

Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red w/Black Leather
Restored

[enochbell]

Nick,

You will get advice from others, perhaps someone has save the step-by-step, but it is really not that bad...just time consuming.  

My advice, however, is that before you get started determine if the chrome bezel is in the shape you want.  First you will need to prise the bezel from the instrument, using a small flat blade to gently uncrimp the lip that holds it to the rim of the speedo.  Easy does it, patience, no problem.  Now, if you have planned well, you will have already purchased a brand new chrome bezel from SLS (don't remember the cost, but I think around $25 and well worth it!) and when the glass is clean a clear you will have a shiny new bezel and bright lights to dazzle yourself!

Best,

g

'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon

[J. Huber]

Sorry Nick -- no step-by-step here either...(haven't done the speedo).

But, in addition to having the bezel on hand if needed, be sure to have the bulbs for speedo and tach if you think you need them. Might as well do as much as you can while in there.

Also, I would definitely have the speedo out before prying the bezel. This might be obvious to you -- but first time I tried to get inside my tach, I tried from the outside. All I did was scratch up my dash!  :oops:

James
63 230SL

[nick350]

Do these dials come out from the front or from under the dash...do you know?

quote:Originally posted by nick350

does anyone know a step by step way to remove my speedo? I need to clean the glass on the inside and the bulbs. I dont have any special tools.

thanks a lot

[Cees Klumper]

From memory (I have had all clocks out several times):
- start with removing the left underdash panel and lower dashpad
- reach behind the tachometer and undo tach cable
- remove two curled nuts (don't drop) that tighten the bracket that keeps the tach in place
- remove tach, taking out the lightbulb (it just pulls out, interference fit)
- proceed to take out the center instrument cluster that you can now get to (curled nuts again)
- not sure whether it is necessary to undo the oil pressure gauge line (8 or 10 mm fitting) and the capillary-tube water temperature gauge, or whether you can just pull the center cluster instrument forward enough to now get at the speedometer. Whatever you do, be ever so gentle with the capillary tube because it's easily broken, not repairable (as far as I know) and very expensive to replace. You'll know if you broke it because the smell from the gas normally confined inside the tube is very powerful
- in any event, once you cleared the center instrument, you can now remove the speedometer, in similar fashion as the tachometer
- remove chrome bezel, clean inside glas
- then the usual 'installation is the reverse of removal', but not before you replaced the little light bulbs with new ones, now that you're in there

Hope I did not forget anything but, when I did it the first time, I had no instructions and figured it out by myself. Only (costly) mistake was the capillary tube ...

Cees ("Case") Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

[rwmastel]

Nick,

I hope you enjoy reading!!!

Roman's speedometer adventures:
http://index.php?topic=5400
http://index.php?topic=4891
http://index.php?topic=4723

General dash board & instruments info:
http://index.php?topic=4695
http://index.php?topic=2765
http://index.php?topic=454
http://index.php?topic=397
http://index.php?topic=225

Info on the chrome instrument bezels:
http://index.php?topic=4387
http://index.php?topic=2939

How to change speedometer cable:
http://index.php?topic=5966
http://index.php?topic=3443
http://index.php?topic=2566

I searched on "remove speedo" and these are only a few of the many search hits.  You could do some other searches, for example "capilary tube", and get more info.  Have fun, the project will be very rewarding!

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[ja17]

Hello Nick,

Cees' description of the procedure is very good.

If I can add a couple comments; I like to remove the steering wheel  first. It comes off easily and makes the job so much easier. The padded cover pops straight off, and you remove the 22mm nut holding the steering wheel on. No puller is required. Take a flashlight and note the location of the slash mark on the steering column end before removal so you can orient the position of the steering wheel correctly during assembly.  

You can gain more room for your hand by moving the metal plate under the dash which holds the two wiring harness plugs it unfastens easily with two screws.

Yes, removing the tach cable is a good tip, as mentioned, so you can access the rest. Remember to re-attach  the ground cables attached under the thumbscrews of the gauges during re-assembly.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[Naj ✝︎]

Hi, Nick,
To to add to all the good advice:
The 'Zeroing' knob on the speedo is attached to the glass with a 'C' clip on the inside and comes off with the glass. When you've undone the bezel, you'll still have to tease it off. Similarly, the rheostat knob on the center cluster.
I did not fully remove the center cluster, but to be able to make enough room to work on it, I undid the water temp. bulb on the engine which allowed me to pull the capillary tube into the cab. I did undo the oil pressure line on the back of the gage.
Best to replace the three rubber gaskets that go round the instruments.
Good luck
naj

68 280SL

[Jonny B]

Also, be sure to keep track of which bracket, or keeper (the U shaped metal device that holds each unit in place with the knurled nut) goes with the tach and the speedo respectively. They are different, to allow clearance for the bulbs and wiring.

Jonny B
1967 250SL Auto

[DavidBrough]

Hi Nick,

You will also need the full three week residential course in ambidexterity with a major in blindfolded TV repair via a letterbox. At least that’s what it seems like the first time you try to take the dash apart.

Don’t be put off though just be methodical. Believe it or not, everything does come apart without the need for brute force so just ask if you get stuck to avoid breaking anything.

When I first had the instruments out I had to remove the steering wheel and the driver’s seat but now I don’t bother with either. You will need to set the wipers in the middle of the screen, just turn off the ignition when they are half way round. If you don’t do this you will need a universally jointed wrist to remove the tach cable. You should not need to remove the centre gauges just pull them out a bit to give some room to access the speedo which you do through the vacant tach hole. As previously mentioned, be very very careful with the water and oil gauge feeds and remember to remove the electrical connectors and bracket on the right underside of the dash.

When replacing the instruments, it is worth taping the rubber gaskets to the body if they have not been already. This makes them much easier to replace. Removal and replacement of the tach is the fiddly bit so take some time to orientate yourself with the angle and placement of the bracket, bulbs and earth wire once removed.

Good luck


David Brough
1969 280SL

[merrill]

lots of good advice below, also, when re installing the instruments,  
take some tape and put a tail on the nuts that secure the u shaped brackets to the instruments.

I cannot tell you how many times I have dropped those nuts and spent a lot of time finding them. the tape gives one something else to hang on to and if you drop the nut something to grab.

I take a 1/4 inch wide sliver of tape about 5 inches long,  tape & wrap one end around the nut till secure, then take the left over tail and fold the sticky sides together.

once the nut is secure, you can pull off the tape.

matt

Matt
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230

[PnHi]

quote:Originally posted by merrill

lots of good advice below, also, when re installing the instruments,  
take some tape and put a tail on the nuts that secure the u shaped brackets to the instruments.

I cannot tell you how many times I have dropped those nuts and spent a lot of time finding them. the tape gives one something else to hang on to and if you drop the nut something to grab.

I take a 1/4 inch wide sliver of tape about 5 inches long,  tape & wrap one end around the nut till secure, then take the left over tail and fold the sticky sides together.

once the nut is secure, you can pull off the tape.

matt

Matt
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230

Great idea...I recently replaced my cold air lever and found three of these nuts behind the dash.