Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Electrical and Instruments => Topic started by: Bob G ✝︎ on June 26, 2009, 04:41:11
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does anyone now or have on their SL a 123 ignition Distributor? I own a 1968 280SL and want to set up my car for road use and reliability. I have the later aluminum Bosch single point distributor. how does this 123 distributor compare to the Partronics kit. I am not looking at price but real time use with both systems.
I now this may be an apple and oranges comparison. but any feed back would be appreciate.
Bob Geco
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Bob,
where have you been? The 123 distributor has been discussed very extensively and in great detail in this thread: http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=9984.0
Bob Possel did a lot of research on them for his car. In the Technical Manual (http://www.sl113.org/wiki/Electrical/123Ignition) a summary is given.
Pretty much everyone who has one is very happy with it.
Peter
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Hi Bob G. !
The 123 has been working great for me. I have used both the 123 and Pertronix. I replaced my Pertronix, along with my distributor, with a 123 unit because my distributor was worn and not repairable. The Pertronix setup works well with a good distributor.
Hope this helps.
bob
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Peter.
I move slow these days still have pain in my legs from my back surgery. I got call as I explained to Bob from the sales representive I posted the inquiry to makesure it was leglite.
See you in black lick Ohio.
bob & Sharon Geco
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Perhaps a bit off topic, but how does one remove the old distributor? I have loosened the clamp and the distributor is frozen in place - it does not move at all (can not change timing). Is there a degree of "persuasion" that could be used (beat on it with a hammer) or is it worth taking the distributor bearing body off the engine and bringing the whole thing to a machine shop? Has anyone encountered this before? Any suggestion would be appreciated. Thanks.
-SCP
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You could try some penetrating oil at the collar of the distributor applied over a few days, but it may be that after lack of use the collar is a bit stuck, so you may not have fully slackened it. The housing is aluminium, and the dissy (probably) steel, so you could try a little heat on the collar gently, but note that there are petrol lines around there also, so don't use an indescriminate naked flame. I would expend some effort with penetrating oil and attempting to move it back and forth before removing the entire housing. I think you'll find it will move with a little preparation.
Apparently a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone makes the best penetrating oil. I've also had success with old brake fluid (which I think JA recommended).
(Don't beat on it with a hammer, tho).
JH