Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Body, interior, paint, chrome, and cosmetic items => Topic started by: Richard Madison on January 18, 2010, 21:27:16
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After nearly 50 years Pagodas can be expected to be less than perfect. And we all know that a few missing minor pieces will not affect the ride or life of the car…but the parts mentioned here were originally installed in some or all Pagodas. From casual observation at car shows and other events, many cars are missing some of these parts.
Here they are with some inexpert comments:
Hood Spring Stand Offs: two rubber pieces about an inch wide should be around the Hood Spring. They are to prevent the spring from rubbing against the underside of the hood. Each piece fits around the spring about 1/.3 of the way from each end.
Inner Fender Hole Fillers: along the inside of each fender, a little below the top, is a series of holes, each about the size of a nickel. 280SL’s (and maybe earlier cars also) had a rubber plug in each of these holes.
Firewall Straddles: There should be three rubber bumpers straddling the seam along the top of the firewall. Each is about 3 inches long. Can be glued in place if they fall off. Placement is not arbitrary: each should sit where the hood reinforcement member meets the firewall; three hood “bulges”, three bumpers. The bumpers are to protect the firewall and the hood reinforcements from harm when closing the hood. Sold in uncut form about 2 feet long. May be listed by MB as a W107 part.
Drain Fittings: Look down the side of the engine to find the metal tube coming out of the firewall to drain the air vent; one on each side of the car. Each of these metal tubes should have an odd looking rubber drain fitted to it. The piece has a short tube then a round ball shape ending with two vertical “lips”. Designed to allow water to drain out but prevent leaves and other debris from being sucked in when traveling at speed. In Part Diagrams, at Heating and Air, Group 83, Part 122.
Plug Wire Organizers: along the plug side of the engine there should be two plastic plug wire “keepers”. Plug wires are passed through these to keep the wires organized.
Heat Shield (large): should be an irregularly shaped metal heat shield screwed to the floor pan above the exhaust pipes from just behind the wheel well to the first exhaust box. A missing shield can make the passenger’s feet quite warm even with the insulation in place. (You do have the under carpet insulation, yes?)
Heat Shield (small) a smaller heat shield should be in place between the Idler Arm and the Exhaust Pipe where the arm comes quite close to the exhaust pipe.
Glove Compartment Washer: the glove box hinge goes into an oval shaped hole when the box is closed. Should be an oval shaped washer fitted into the hole. The washer has a lip around it prevent the washer from disappearing into the hole. Washer is missing on many cars.
Rear Chrome Rubber Strips: A chrome strip is located above each taillight. Two more chrome strips are between the taillights. All of these chrome pieces should have a rubber strip between the chrome and the car body. Missing on many cars.
Rear Exhaust Bumper: There is a flat metal plate spanning the two exhaust pipes just before the pipes exit from under the car. There is a hole in the plate. The hole is for a small rubber bumper to keeps the exhaust pipes from hitting the car body which is very close to the flat plate. A missing bumper can result in an annoying metal-on-metal sound from the rear of the car. Exhaust Group 49, Part 56.
Sub Frame Access Covers: 230 SL’s (and probably early 250SL’s) came with a thin plastic cover over each of the sub frame mount access holes. These covers were not fitted to 280SL’s.
Shock Absorber Covers: 230 SL’s (and maybe early 250SL’s) came with a plastic cover over each of the protruding Shock Absorber tops on each side of the trunk front. These covers were not fitted to 280SL’s.
Well, that should give compulsive obsessive owners something to worry about this Winter. Corrections and additions are welcome. Please excuse the informal names for the parts. I know the parts but I don’t know some of the correct names.
Suggest you get busy on these as I’ll be looking for them this Spring when your car is back on the road.
Richard M, NYC (No, my car does not have all of these parts but it does have most of them.) I don’t want to shame other owners by having a perfect car…near perfect is good enough for me. :)
First photo shows the two Hood Hinge Bumpers; and the hole plugs along the inside of the fender; and one of the three firewall bumpers.
Second Photo shows (seen with some difficulty) the Exhaust heat shield.
The Third image shows the rubber insert between the chrome strip and the body. Each rear chrome piece should have a rubber strip.
Last image is the rubber drain ball.
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Great list of observations.
A potential candidate (which came up in a recent post) is the fuel pump cover.
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Thanks Richard for a very useful list.
Another item is the rectangular plate with a clip to hold the tach drive cable (see photo).
I believe the "drain fitting" (or one-way drain valve) is only on the driver side.
See: http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=6092.0
Also, "these chrome pieces should have a rubber strip between the chrome and the car body. Missing on many cars." is certainly correct for a 280SL but most likely not for a 230SL.
See: http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=9102.0
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I believe Alfred is correct in that the 230SL does not have the rubber strip behind the chrome next to the rear lights. Mine doesn't and none is shown in the parts book for the car. Thankfully since I just replaced the trunk lock and had those pieces off the car. I will have to check on the rest of the items. At least that is one thing I won't have to purchase. ;D
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A comment regarding the rubber plugs on the inside of the fenders. Not all 280 SL had them, since those holes where
introduced sometime in 1969, thus an early 280 SL did not have them. Unless the inner fender was replaced, since they spare part always comes with holes.
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Also missing, in my experience, is the vinyl sleeve that the plug wires are bundled in where they pass over the injection lines.
Incidentally, i had it on good authority (but I don't remember who) that the rubber strip hood bumpers on the edge of the cowl/firewall are not correct for the 280sl.
Gus
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Also missing, in my experience, is the vinyl sleeve that the plug wires are bundled in where they pass over the injection lines.
I purchased as set of Beru spark plug wires from the Classic center (expensive but very nice) and it had the vinyl sleeve included! The old set was missing the sleeve of course.
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Wheeler, if you don't mind me asking but how much were the wires?
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Also missing, in my experience, is the vinyl sleeve that the plug wires are bundled in where they pass over the injection lines.
Incidentally, i had it on good authority (but I don't remember who) that the rubber strip hood bumpers on the edge of the cowl/firewall are not correct for the 280sl.
Gus
The Benz EPC online parts catalog lists the hood bumper/buffer part # 000 987 5070 under section 68 (covering and lining) for the 280SL. Qty of 3.
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SL!113Fan
Thanks for the information, I will try to find a set.
"The Benz EPC online parts catalog lists the hood bumper/buffer part # 000 987 5070 under section 68 (covering and lining) for the 280SL. Qty of 3."
Gus
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Dave Gallon has a bead on a lot of these parts. Give him a try.
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... i had it on good authority (but I don't remember who) that the rubber strip hood bumpers on the edge of the cowl/firewall are not correct for the 280sl ...
Hmmm, I wonder who that guru was? ???
As far as I know all 280SL had these 3 strips.
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...the rectangular plate with a clip to hold the tach drive cable (see photo).
Sadly, I'm missing that plate.
The little clip is A000 988 18 78 and is still available from MB.
From what I can gather, the plate would be A111 542 05 40. Can anyone confirm my finding?
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Since my car is mostly apart at this time it is pretty easy to get to some of the areas for pics. Hope they help.
Re Rubber hood stop buffers, I am pretty sure they all had them. They are each 50mm long, requiring 3 as stated. Outer ones center approx 24.5cm from edge of fender which will coincide with he hood reinforcement extrusions. Also, all cars had the rubber protectors on the hood torsion spring to prevent it from rubbing on the hood.
The rubber Ball cover for the drain in my car was definitely only on the driver's side. Location pretty obvious above the steering box. The pic is still of the old one. MB is definitely proud of it. $$$
P/N for the exhaust rubber buffer is A112 987 01 40
Bernd
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Thanks for the photo of the plate and clip Bernd.
Would you be so kind as to measure the plate for me? Maybe I can have it reproduced.
If the part number for the plate I posted is correct, then it is available from MB, but at a whopping 69 Euro!
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WOW!...are you sure about that price? The plate is really nothing special. 1.5 mm thick, 18mm wide, 30mm long, hole dia 6.4mm centered 8mm from bottom. Gonna do some cad plating in the next few days. Maybe I should cut a few on the cnc and throw them in the plating tank. Should be a piece of cake.
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On a much more pleasant note -- the clip that goes on that bracket is only about a buck an a half, I believe.
P/N 000 988 18 78 according to my invoice from Dave Gallon. Might want to confirm all this with him.
Now -- back to the original question: what am I missing? From memory, I think:
1. The panels that fit in the trunk. Actually glad in a way -- because now I can fit my golf clubs more easily.
2. The tool kit (anyone have a spare 113 one for a few bucks?) :D
3. The small bulb that goes in the heater blower knob, assuming the early cars had this. (Have not figured out how to get to it anyway...)
4. The arm that goes on glove box -- as well as the receiving fork. I've heard that welding the arm is challenging here?
5. And...a few sections of sheet-metal in the corners of the floor and rocker areas... :-\
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.... Maybe I should cut a few on the cnc and throw them in the plating tank. Should be a piece of cake.
Yes please! You would do lots of people a real favor.
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WOW!...are you sure about that price?
Thank you Bernd for the measurements, much appreciated.
Yup, pretty sure about the price - checked it with the Classic Centre in Germany.
No way I'm paying that much for a simple plate unless it is made of platinum... ;)
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3. The small bulb that goes in the heater blower knob, assuming the early cars had this. (Have not figured out how to get to it anyway...)
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James,
The best way to get to the blower motor switch is to remove the glovebox.
On the side of the switch you will see a small silver "lever" in a recessed area. If you move the "lever", the little bulb will pop out.
The "lever" actually is the bottom contact for the bulb and the spring inside the recess is the other contact for the bulb.
If memory serves me correctly, then it is a small 2 Watt bulb with a BA9s base.
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Thanks Jaco. I'll have a peek at some point. Related question -- should there be a "lens" or something in the hole? I don't know why I thought the light was red?
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Thank you Bernd for the measurements, much appreciated.
Yup, pretty sure about the price - checked it with the Classic Centre in Germany.
No way I'm paying that much for a simple plate unless it is made of platinum... ;)
The pricing department at the Classic Center in Germany has a new super charged computer.
It works like this: Look at the current price, then think of a higher number and multiply by 3.
Couple of recent examples:
Door glass
Rear axle center pivot bush
The CSV solenoid 'O' ring seal takes the biscuit!
:'( :'( :'(
naj
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...Related question -- should there be a "lens" or something in the hole?
Yes James.
That small "lens" is actually part of a larger transparent piece of plastic that extends into the switch itself and kind of works like a fibre optic cable.
The bulk of the plastic bit is next to the bulb and that is probably why the light is so dim when the switch is activated.
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Are any of these parts available e.g. the hood spring stand offs,the oval shaped washer in the glove box,if so does anyone have the part numbers. Where exactly do the hood spring stand offs go?. Cheers Mike.
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The hoodspring stand offs do not have an exact position. They are usually placed about 1/3 in from each end of the spring to give the best protection from the spring rubbing against the hood while opening and closing. If the rubber pieces are loose and keep sliding along the spring, a bit of glue will help keep them in place.
Richard M, NYC
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Hi Mike...saw the oval washers for sale through someone on the german equivalent website..hope that helps
see the link: http://www.pagodentreff.de/diskussionsforum/t7274-rosette-handschuhfach.html
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Mike,
David Gallon had the oval washer for the glove box available, from memory I think they were less than $10.
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Thanks for the help everyone.but I misled you with my wording,what I meant to say about the hood stand offs was where are the springs located, the big ones under the hood cover I presume .I looked at motoring investments site and they have what they call totally original cars,But none have any rubber stand offs where I thaught they would be. Many thanks Mike Rutledge ???
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Mike. I am still not quite clear what you mean. Which springs are we talking about?
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Thanks for the help everyone.but I misled you with my wording,what I meant to say about the hood stand offs was where are the springs located, the big ones under the hood cover I presume .I looked at motoring investments site and they have what they call totally original cars,But none have any rubber stand offs where I thaught they would be. Many thanks Mike Rutledge ???
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Hi there.should they be on the large springs visable when you lift the soft top stowage compartment lid about 6 inches long x1 inch wide or am I looking in the wrong place thanks .Mike
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Ok. I think Mike is asking about something very different than what Richard has called hood bumper standoffs... Or maybe I am completely confused about all this. Here is what I think Richard meant...not sure what may or may not be missing in the soft-top storage case.
OR...Could this be a classic English language issue? the hood versus bonnet thing? I would imagine in England the hood is the soft-top? whereas in America, it is the equivalent of the "bonnet"
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James,
Pip pip and jolly good show for understanding the poms.
Yes, the chaps do call the "hood" a "soft top" something to do with the fact that it is made from material and is soft as well as sitting on top of the car.
As far as the "bonnet " is concerned, who knows, probably some tradition originating from the Magna Carter. ;D
Quaint and all as it is, most of us Aussies call the metal flap that covers the engine a "bonnet" and the folding thing that covers the driving compartment and keeps the rain off your head - the "soft top". ;)
Anyway, I`m off to the cricket- another English invention where the batting side is in, with the fielding side, who just got out, trying to get each batsman out so they can get in. And you reckon hood and bonnets are a problem.....
Cheers
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Thanks everyone you finally cracked it.I was looking in the completely wrong place,here the hood is the soft top{to keep the rain off my head}and the bonnet keeps the rain of the engine ,I have got the stand offs in place on the spring that crosses the bonnet that keeps the rain off the engine. Thanks again Brilliant.take care. Mike Rutledge
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Maybe we need to add an international cross-word reference section in the Tech Manual ;) ?
Could really get interesting if we throw a bit of Memphis in the mix...
Here in Memphis ... 2 people = "y'all", however ... 3 or more = "all y'all" ...
Bob :)
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How about the cloth insert between the cross bowes on the underside of the trunk. These often get through-en away in doing restorations. I had a company that I used to deal with who made me one up. unfortunately I have to dig through a pile of receipts to fine their name.
I do not know if Mercedes-benz or any classic parts suppliers sell this cloth insert. any one know please let me know?
Bob Geco
1968 280SL
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Well, since we are back on this thread... Mike R., I finally figured out what stand-offs you were gettin' at. Yes, there should be two small rubber bumper stand-offs near the springs in the soft-top well. They look to be the same as those under the "bonnet!"
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I'm missing the small heat shield on the idler, but I hear it's NLA and I've never been able to find one. How is it attached?
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Hi Andy,
I think you can easily make the upper heat shield. It is a 7 x 13in piece of aluminum. About 1 inch of the 13 inch length is bent 90 degrees. The side with the bent piece is the underside. The 1 inch side mounts almost against the frame rail. The heat shield starts right where thw lower shield ends and extends upwards conforming to the curve of the fire wall 13 inched. It is held in position through the firewall by two counter sunk screws under the carpet. The shield has threaded standoffs which keep it about 1/2 inch from the firewall. The standoffs are rivited to the aluminum shield. I'm sure you could find a way top secure it without the rivited standoffs.
Here is a pic.
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Hey Jeff, thanks very much, but I do have that smaller shield that you describe.
What I'm referring to is an even smaller shield mounted to the chassis cylinder that holds the idler arm bushing. Please see the picture that I pulled from earlier in this topic.
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Thank you Andy. Didn't know about that one. I'm missing it also.
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Besides being NLA, what is the theory about its purpose? To reduce heat on the idler arm bushing?
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I suppose it is. It must have some rubber components that can be heat sensative.