Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: huyturbo on February 10, 2011, 07:43:13
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My car won't start! I changed the condensor and about to replace the coil and resistor in the morning. Anybody local familiar with the ignition system? I'm new to the area looking for a good old fashion mechanic in the northern va area or around downtown in DC.
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I did an engine wash on my Spitfire (the car, not the plane) 12 years ago and it too wouldn't start afterwards, I ended up leaving it with a space heater blowing warm air on it overnight and the next morning it came to life as if nothing had happened. I know it sounds a little obvious, but it's worth a try :-)
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You just got the dizzy and coil wet, put some heat on it and maybe pull the distributor cover off and wipe it out with a dry cloth, it will start. Old points style ignition were always prone to moisture upsetting the spark. You may also have bad ignition wires which can get wet easier. You won't need to do anything other than dry it out to get it to run as before though.
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sorry for being dumb but what the heck is a dizzy? dizzy??? I already got a new coil so I might as well install it. My new condensor isn't like the one on the car now... it doesn't have a mounting bracket that holds it to the firewall.
i'm still looking for a local mechanic if anyone can recommend. thx.
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Dizzy is short for distributor. I believe the condenser you are looking at attached to the firewall is for radio suppression, the actual ignition condenser is under the "dizzy".
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Hello,
Sometimes just taking the distributor cap off and leaving off for a while, allows everything inside to dry out.
Otherwise check to make sure the "fork" connection on the wire end of the ignition points did not rotate when you installed the new condensor. If the "fork" rotates enough to touch the breaker plate in the distributor it completely grounds out your ignition and the engine will not start.
Also this small attachment bolt for the condensor has three plastic insulators to prevent an electric short. Make sure these are in place. They consist of two flatplastic washer-like insulators and one plastic insulator sleeve as the small bolt passes through the distributor housing. The insulator sleeve may have disintegrated over the years and the small bolt may be touching the dist. housing. In a pinch you can use one or two small rubber o-rings in place of the insulator sleeve.
There is an easy way to trace the path of the electric current to the distributor with a 12 volt test light. Open the distributor points manually and insulate between them temporarily with a piece of plastic or paper. Turn on the ignition and check the ignition point half tha has the wire on it, with your 12 volt test light. It should light up. If not disconnect the primarry wire from the coil and test it. If it lights now, the problem is at the distributor connection.
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Hey Huy. We have a number of seasoned owners here who live in the Virginia area. I'm sure they will have recommendations. As for the non-start, things will probably dry out and you'll be ok. The dizzy is the distributer. This is where the condenser would be. Then the coil on the wheel arch and the ballast resistor over by the fender. I would try and get it all back the way it once was. And for next time, if you are going to spray the engine area, simply slip some ziplock freezer bags over the dist. and coil. Better yet, use elbow grease! Good luck.
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If you do not have time to dry everything out, a shot of WD-40 will displace moisture. Usually pop the "dizzy" cap and spray the WD-40 and replace. Magic!
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Guys thanks so much for the tips. I'm going to go try to fix this one myself.
Oh your right I replaced the wrong thing... the condensor is actually under the distributor cap. I actually hooked it up to the coil. I'm wrong right?
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Oh your right I replaced the wrong thing... the condensor is actually under the distributor cap. I actually hooked it up to the coil. I'm wrong right?
Uh...no. Under the distributor cap are the points and rotor. On the outside of the distributor is the condensor which makes contact with the points at a terminal. The negative side of the coil is attached to the terminal at the condensor that is common to the coil, condensor and points.
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thelews - now THAT is a nice engine bay! I'll never show mine again in public :o
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you can Mike but you just need to throw lots and lots more dollars at it!!!
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thelews - now THAT is a nice engine bay! I'll never show mine again in public :o
I only show mine to cover the other end of the spectrum...
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yah i fixed it. no more hosing down the engine bay.
i changed out the condensor thats attach to the distributor and the coil. The car runs good but it was probaly moisture..... the condensor and coil was like 10 years old anyways.