Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Electrical and Instruments => Topic started by: ctaylor738 on January 31, 2013, 02:29:57
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Today I finished the install of a rebuilt Becker Europa and a Koenig dash speaker from Becker Autosound. I thought this would be a drop-in, but it turned out to be a minor hassle for a couple of reasons:
- the "bars" that hold the radio to the dash, as supplied, did not do the job. The problem was that the screws were not long enough to reach the front of the radio and thus hold it tight against the dash. Becker called this "odd' but offered no other suggestions. The length of the screws does not have much tolerance, since they must be long enough to bottom out against the radio, but not too long to clear the face plate. My solution was to use a couple of Nylock nuts to extend the screws to the right length. Regular nuts won't work because they are likely to turn as you tighten the screw.
- turining the heater contirol to defrost caused the lever to hit the bottom of the Koenig "replacement" speaker. Becker told me that I should have spacers that go under the speaker but without them I was basically left to me own devices. I ended up using 1/4" Dynaliner foam pieces to raise the speaker to clear the lever. But when it was high enough to clear the lever, the wooden grille would not fit. This was solved by notching the lip that runs around the top of the speaker in three places to clear the little "joists" on the bottom of the grille.
Not having any wiring for the radio, I decided to run the power from Fuse 1 (hot all the time) from the back of the fuse panel. I used a lug under the bolt that secures the blower housing for a ground. No "correct" fuse holder in the engine compartment, but no exposed wires either.
Once in place and connected, the sound from the radio/speaker is quite good.
Hope this helps anyone with a restore project who decides to go this route.
Cheers,
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- turining the heater contirol to defrost caused the lever to hit the bottom of the Koenig "replacement" speaker. Becker told me that I should have spacers that go under the speaker but without them I was basically left to me own devices. I ended up using 1/4" Dynaliner foam pieces to raise the speaker to clear the lever. But when it was high enough to clear the lever, the wooden grille would not fit. This was solved by notching the lip that runs around the top of the speaker in three places to clear the little "joists" on the bottom of the grille.
Hello Chuck,
I wonder whether Koenig has changed the design of the speaker? Which part of the lever hit the speaker - where the cable wire is attached?
Fortunately I had kept the old spacers but had to replace the rubber. These are only used with the front screws, not the back ones! Also note that the new speaker (bottom photo) has no dust cover (cloth). I did add some fine cloth before installing speaker since there is a lot of dust created next to the fresh air vents.
Looking at your photo I noticed that your middle chrome escutcheon has two holes where there should be a defrost decal.
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According to the datacard, the car had a Becker radio originally installed. From the look of the dash opening, some sort of aftermarket stereo was installed but nothing came with the car. So I was starting "afresh."
I would greatly appreciate it if someone could provide me with the dimensions of the spacers, as I am not comfortable with the existing arrangement.
When you move the lever from floor to windshield, the cable attachment on the lever hits the bottom of the speaker.
I don't know if the speaker was changed, it looks the same as in the photos. Speaker wires attachment is the same. I do know that I could not position it so that the lever would clear and the grille would fit without notching the lip. I do have a new heater/vent control unit - maybe that's the problem.
There is a Restrosound 10x4 speaker that is 1/4" less deep. I thought about that but It has two little tweeters on top that I thought would look odd.
Finally, the car came with re-chromed trim and all of the little emblems were missing. I have assembled a collection over time. I do have the DEFROST emblem, but it has a small chip in the white part so I haven't installed it. I have it on my list to fix but not sure how. Thinking paint and a tiny brush. Suggestions welcome.
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Chuck, for the tiny paint chip, try the end of a round toothpick. It doesn't have much paint on it each time, but a little patience will get the small chip filled in, and filled in smoothly. I have used that approach for some small paint chips on the outside of the car, and it does nicely. Probably the most important is to get the right "white".
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Hi Chuck--
The spacers are plastic tubes about .4" tall (slightly over 3/8") and about the same OD. These could be quickly fashioned out of copper tubing.
I have an extra set of plastic ones. If you are interested, PM me.
the other Joe
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Chuck,
I modified the spacers a bit by putting them into a rigid brass tube. I believe I have some spares but will have to search for them.
The 10 x 4 retro speaker will not fit it is too wide. The hole spacing is 21 x 6 cm.
http://www.koenigs-klassik-radios.de/en/loudspeaker/special-loudspeaker-for-mercedes-benz-111/a-31122/ (http://www.koenigs-klassik-radios.de/en/loudspeaker/special-loudspeaker-for-mercedes-benz-111/a-31122/)
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Today I finished the install of a rebuilt Becker Europa.../... Not having any wiring for the radio.../... No "correct" fuse holder in the engine compartment, but no exposed wires either
The wiring for the radio 12V feed is in the wiring loom, and is folded just in the area of the base for the coolant expansion reservoir. You have to slit the cover for the loom open, and the wire is there [14]. It is attached to a fuse holder [4 in attached sketch] and then the wire goes in via a little hole with a square grommet, through the firewall [11 and 13 in sketch]
/Hans in Sweden
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And here is a photo of the hidden red wire: http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=17189.msg118839#msg118839
If you don't have a fuse box just add an in-line fuse holder.
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Hello Bob,
If you have installed new heater controls, there is a problem with some of the new "grey" replacement controls which are supplied. There is a raised boss on the new grey control which is ground flat on the original controls. If this boss is not ground flat it will hit the speaker. Check your old control if you still have the grey one and compare it to the new one. You can use a dremel to easily do the work with the lever installed if this is the issue. I will try to post some pictures later.
Did you try re-bending the levers for the radio? Those may have been previously bent.
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Hello Chuck,
See if this might be your problem.............
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All,
Thanks for all the information and support, especially Joe for the detail on the heater lever. I did in fact install a complete new control assembly from Mercedes, so that is undoubtedly the problem. What to do about it is a difficult question because I REALLY don't want to pull the dash apart.
Also, I do have two official-looking red and red-green wires poking out of the harness by the coolant tank but no hole for a fuse holder, and no fuse holder came with the car parts (but that doesn't mean anything). I will fish around and see if I can find out what they are connected to.
One question - my datacard has the entries "519 Becker radio" and "531 automatic antenna." Why, if all radios were dealer-installed?
Cheers
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One question - my datacard has the entries "519 Becker radio" and "531 automatic antenna." Why, if all radios were dealer-installed?
The M-B factory certainly installed a radio into the car, if you ordered it. In your SL, that was the case! And, a Becker Mexico Grand Prix (US version) no less ;)
However, some M-B dealers preferred to install the radios into the cars at their dealership. The factory then, in most cases, prepared the installation (interference suppression equipment install) and often with automatic or manual antenna, too. Various SA between 532 and 536 specified this. The large importer in Sweden, Philipson, went this route and all radios installed by him were Blaupunkt.
/Hans in Sweden
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Hello Chuck,
If the grey heater control is the issue, you can use a Dremel tool through the speaker hole and grind the raised bosses down, without taking anything apart.
The wiring branch on the right side has a pair of wires going to the electric idle increase solenoid. These two wires emerge from the harness after the branch going to the voltage regulator and between two hold down clips on the fender apron. These two wires are green /red and red /black this branch of the harness uses the black plastic braided outer sheathing.
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In the cartboardbox from Konigs containing the speaker you should find 4 raisers (in a bag) enclosed.
But what to do with the rubber plugs?
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Use them for buffers for the glove box door?
Unfortunately, the only object in the box was the speaker.
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... But what to do with the rubber plugs? ...
I doubt that the rubber plugs came with the speaker.
When a car was delivered without a speaker installed, the dash opening was closed with a piece of rectangular cardboard identified as "113" in the parts sketch. These two rubber buffers ("115") were inserted through the cardboard and pushed through the opening where the nut clips for the standoff screws are located.
The shorter buffer on the left may just have its tail ripped off because that is how you pull these buffers through.
The same buffer (now "58") is used in the window lifter but it is not useful for the glove box lid because the head is too thick and the door doesn't close tight enough. that buffer ("88") is long NLA.
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Alfred,
It was meant to be humorous. And the buffers are available - 110 987 05 39.
Cheers,
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Chuck,
have you bought these replacement buffers (xxx 05 39) for the glove box?
Very disappointing! I tried to shave them down but the head is way to thick, IMO.
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To shave rubber bumpers I have used a grinding wheel, such as a bench grinder. But be careful: It tends to catch! Don't use your fingers to hold it, use pliers!
Here is a picture of what I installed in my car: It's from a 1995 E320. The red switch on the right side turns on/off the antenna motor so that the antenna doesn't extend when I use tapes or CD and for local stations the antenna can remain down. This radio also has a red flashing light, like to warn would-be thieves that things are not so easy.
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wow, the radio from E320 looks like a radio from…… E320. :-\
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wow, the radio from E320 looks like a radio from…… E320. :-\
??????????????????
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... - the "bars" that hold the radio to the dash, as supplied, did not do the job. The problem was that the screws were not long enough to reach the front of the radio and thus hold it tight against the dash. Becker called this "odd' but offered no other suggestions. ...
Hi Chuck,
had a similar problem today with the fastening brackets until I realized that I used the wrong ones, shown on the left in the photo with a "?".
Not sure whether they are for a different Becker model or perhaps a Blaupunkt or Grundig radio. Your brackets with the three steps at the bottom look similar.
http://www.sl113.org/wiki/uploads/Electrical/Becker_radio_mounting_bars.jpg