Pagoda SL Group

W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: Martedal on July 17, 2015, 21:07:30

Title: 280sl engine issues
Post by: Martedal on July 17, 2015, 21:07:30

Hi all

Im new here so please excuse any newb questions  ;D

I have installed a 280SL engine in my 230sl, and have it started up.
pump is delivering on all 6 injectors, and it turns nicely and revs like a charm...

Untill you try putting it into gear ???, then it simply will not take rpm and the engine runs terrible..

Cold running is extremely smooth.
There is a slightly less smoothnes when warm.
spark/ignition seems fine

im am inclined towards a Fuel/air mixture issues..

Any pointerns for me ?

Martedal
Denmark

Title: Re: 280sl engine issues
Post by: ja17 on July 18, 2015, 07:44:38

What is the history of the problem?

Title: Re: 280sl engine issues
Post by: rwmastel on July 18, 2015, 20:10:02

Do a search on this forum for CSS or Constant Speed Solenoid.  It is that device mounted to the top of the intake manifold with a plunger that adjusts the linkage position.  This basically gives the engine more RPM when you put an automatic transmission into gear, or start your A/C on a car so equipped.  There are ways to test if this is working, I'm sure it is in previous threads.

Title: Re: 280sl engine issues
Post by: Martedal on July 20, 2015, 15:03:40

History: I do not really have, i have put in a rebuilt 280 engine, and it seems to be running well on the garagefloor, takings revs easily. As soon as you get in and puts into gear, the engine stalls/stops/runs terrible.

The CSS. I  will look into. the car is with manuel, no AC of any sort. and vacuum lines are tight and not leaking.

Title: Re: 280sl engine issues
Post by: Shvegel on July 20, 2015, 18:27:47

Joe,  is there a 3 way solenoid on a 230?  Stuck in high pressure?

Title: Re: 280sl engine issues
Post by: ctaylor738 on July 20, 2015, 20:27:03

That's a good point.  Turn the ignition on and you should hear a click from the solenoid.  Press down on the gas pedal and you should hear another click.  Let the pedal return to idle position, another click.  This is the solenoid moving the control rod from "idle" position to "driving" position, and back.  This is by means of a switch by the throttle plate that has to be closed at idle, and open as soon as the throttle is moved.  If the solenoid isn't going into "idle" position, the car won't idle correctly.

Also, are you using the 230 throttle body with the 280 distributor?  That would be a problem because the vacuum advance works differently.