Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Electrical and Instruments => Topic started by: Kayvan on December 29, 2015, 04:31:33
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My headlight door clear plastic ring around sealed beam has cracked/broken; about a 15 degree arc
I would like to attempt to repair it before buying a new unit
Any glues to recommend ?
-3M trim & emblems adhesive
-Loctite plastic trim glue
-JB weld
This was a great salvage unit I got back in the day
With perfect chrome
Prices of new ones have skyrocketed
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I would not think JB Weld is what you want, it would probably hold the ring together, but it will not be transparent. Don't know about the others.
Suspect a plastic glue on the order of super glue or something like that?
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If it is a clean break with no parts missing you might try the MEK solvent which is used for plastic model kit assembly. It is basically a solvent which softens the plastic at the break and fuses it back together. Hobby shops sell it. Sign shops use it a lot also. It will not leave any build-up. Super Glue as Jon suggests sounds good also.
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Most likely its polystyrene then plastic model kit is ok
If its acryllic you could use chloroform .
Both are solvents.
Now there is law overhere that requires carmanufacturers to mark all their plasticparts with a stamp that states the material used.
Suppose 45 odd years ago this was not that much of an item.
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Kayvan, use a clear 2 part epoxy. Also epoxy the lens to the frame on the back side to prevent future cracks.
I used "Devcon" UV stable clear epoxy. Amazon sells it. DONT use superglue. The fumes turn the surrounding plastic white.
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I agree with Tyler S., the super glue will sometimes produce a whitish haze around the repair. Not sure why, but it does.
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Weekend Project: So...in light of my New French Yellow bulbs decided to restore my broken salvage Headlight door
Buy: JB Weld Clear ($5.99 at home depot) to glue a 30 degree of plastic ring at t 10-1
http://www.homedepot.com/p/J-B-Weld-25-ml-ClearWeld-Quick-Set-Epoxy-Syringe-50112/204986141
I. Wash
-You can unscrew all the electric sockets, boards, and wires and just have the metal/plastic frame.
-Put plastic in bottom of sink and spray with scalding hot water and dish-was liquid, and soak; dissolves grime, dirt, yellow baked on film.
-The plastic will flex and metal will expand a bit and lens just slips out, no pressure at all.
-Next, scrub inside of lens with toothbrush, or plastic scrub (not steel wool); dry and leave in sun.
Note - If plastic is opaque, has yellowing, rust stains, fogging, cloudiness, etc; dilute below in gallon solution of water:
-Soak in bucket filed with solution of 2 Cups White Vinegar overnight
-Soak in bucket with 16oz bottle of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide for 4 hours; wash off, leave in sunlight for 4 hours (UV will activate)
-Soak in bucket with 1 Cup of Bleach for 4 hours; wash off.
-For deep staining: use Baking Soda powder to make paste; an old tooth-brush to gently scrub plastic inside and out (pre/test on covered edge to make sure doesnt mar surface).
If all of above fails use Bug & Tar Remover to coat outside and inside of lens and wash off promptly (Rain-X Gel or Tarminator). This will strip plastic of all contaminants and make clear.
II.Polish
Polish outside and INSIDE of lens with Mothers Plastic Polish, Meguiars, #10, or#17, or Novus 1-2-3.
Inside lens needs extra attention to get polish out of all ribs (flat screw driver in cloth)
Do 3 applications and let dry to haze then polish firmly on thick towel.
Note: Novus # 3 is especially good for deep scratches and road rash.
III. Glue:
-Clean off broken pieces with alcohol, sand edge with emory board or fine sand paper
-Mix epoxy, and after 4 min, dip a bead on each end of broken piece (works best gluing one side only)
-Position and hold for 10 min, so you have perfect arc.
-Use a pin or thin nail to get a bead coat small fillet in edge; and coat small square layer on underside (not too heavy).
-Put in sun to dry for 1 hour (UV helps activation), should feel tacky; will dry cyrstal clear and give almost a fused look to plastic
-Cures overnight and smooth to touch.
IV. Re-assemble
-Check the glued areas; should be hard.
-Position the TOP of plastic ring in first; there is a bevel edge that must fit into chrome ring top,and clear tab.
-Next, pull at middle of chrome ring a bit, to snap in middle plastic tabs.
-Note epoxy is flexible and you can see some flex while fitting.
-Finally, go to sink and run scalding water, on lower half of plastic lens and chrome ring for 2-3 minutes.
-Check top is still seated; then gently snap one corner in at a time; if you hear scrape sound; its not hot enough.
-Once one corner is in , the top edge might protrude a bit/askew.
-Re-heat other corner 2-3 minutes and it will pop in; use damp towel for leverage (DONT push down plastic on hard edge.)
-Plastic at top will be seated, flush.
-Leave in sun to dry and will cool to fit.
Easy 1-2 hour project; if your lens are cracked or not crystal clear, you should do this for cost of soap & water, $6 Polish, and $6 glue.
PS, I sent the Fog reflector out to be re-silvered/plated for $75 (decided against re-doing the orange directional signal) as wires are soldered on and wire clips are very brittle, and dont want to risk breakage and MOT / DMV inspection issue.
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Crystal!
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Kayvan,
very nicely documented --- Thanks --- I am sure many in the group will appreciate this as it's a common issue.
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Transparent seam
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Still puzzled why these plastic rings break on some cars & not others.
Just noticed fit of chrome headlight bezels; and concluded given the spring tabs on top and in lower chrome bezel; the use of incorrect screws may be tensioning the chrome ring improperly and forcing plastic to unseat, and/or break.
Purchasing the OEM style headlight frame screws @ $8-10/ea (see pics below); yeah its crazy; but so is scratching, rust staining your chrome ring...
MB Part #s
111 990 01 21
N000000000454
N007985004135
Metric Size: M4 x 16mm DIN 966
Oval / Philips head
Many cars have wood screws, generic aluminum, sheet-metal, or self-tapping screws with varying head shapes that don't seat correctly in headlight bezel, and have play in tabs and may vibrate, flex, twist, and distort the frame and push out the plastic at the top.
Obviously you can get SS, zinc plated or generic machine M4x16 screws at hardware stores for 35c; chrome plated may be harder.
My bezel had mismatched screws; cheap aluminum; don't let a 35c screw break your $1000 bezel!
http://www.authenticclassics.com/CHROME-PLATED-OVAL-HEAD-SCREW-DIN-966-4x16-p/auth-005245.htm
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My bezel screw hole...time to get the chrome polish :-[