Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => General Discussion => Topic started by: jan lauwers on February 28, 2016, 19:42:04
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Gentlemen,
Looks DO matter to me... not sure if that`s something to be proud of or not...
I have an empty motor compartment and I have taken all the attributes of my engine off. I will sand, spray paint, have certain parts plated etc, I want the engine to look good eventually!
Today I have worked on the injecton pump. I degreased, cleaned and gave it a steal brush treatment. It looks good, but now I wonder… what would be the best way to preserve it in this state? I hesitate to spray paint it… too many bolts and lids, I guess.
Any recommendations please, what is common practice?
Some other questions:
I hesitate to remove that rectangular plate on the left side. I`d like to have it plated, but I am unsure that I will be able to find a new rubber seal for it. If I do remove it, is it risky business? I am only a hobby mecanic; my skills are limited and structural work on an IP should be left to specialists, I think.
Lastly: What is that mushroom shaped thing standing on top of the IP? Looking in my MB book; I figure it is some kind of counter balance. I did remove it and I found 3 washes on the stem. Or are these seals? Why 3? Should I renew them? Are these some kind of spacers?
Thanks guys!
Jan
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Possibly a bit of light metal polish followed by a bit of clear coat? At least that's what they look like after total restoration.
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The smaller can is an air filter for the injection pump The large one is the barometric compensator. By no means alter any of the adjustment shims under this. Thickness is critical. You might want to spend some time on the IP tour so you know what the parts are, before you make an expensive mistake.
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The smaller can is an air filter for the injection pump The large one is the barometric compensator. By no means alter any of the adjustment shims under this. Thickness is critical. You might want to spend some time on the IP tour so you know what the parts are, before you make an expensive mistake.
I can't agree more. Like everything else on our cars, injection pumps are not a small item to rebuild. It's my opinion that just like your engine, your IP and ignition distributor will all need to be rebuilt at some point in ownership. When, where, and how are up to you.
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As others stated, you may want to wait to address the plating on the injection pump until you are ready to have it rebuilt. These pieces all have very important roles and disturbing them can cause havoc. The pump rebuilders will re-plate these items during the course of the rebuild and re-assemble and adjust everything to spec. In the meantime you may want to mask off and spray the items that bother you with a CAD look-alike product. It's of course not correct but looks great from a few feet away.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Eastwood/352/10331Z/10002/-1?CAWELAID=230006180003477890&CAGPSPN=pla&catargetid=230006180003463607&cadevice=c&gclid=CMTi18nqm8sCFQiJaQod8_IGEg
Tyler
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By the way, how sensitive is the Barometric compensator ?
I have noticed very minor variations in start up, idle and maybe exhaust fumes based on temperature, humidity and maybe even elevation, from sea level to 750-1000ft
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I would say highly sensitive, if it's working. I can drive a long ways before the elevation even changes 30 meters so I'm not always aware of non functional BC's.
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I have used the Eastwood CAD spray system and while it looks like yellow CAD with some effort, it just isn't durable and easy to chip. As an alternative, I use a VHT gold hi temp engine paint and dust it with a engine spray clear to get that dull look. http://www.amazon.com/VHT-SP132-Engine-Enamel-Universal/dp/B000CPAV7U
Eastwood also sells this and from what I used in the past, holds up well. Color is pretty close. http://www.eastwood.com/ew-ceramic-engine-paint-qt-olds-gold.html?fee=7&fep=3439&SRCCODE=GA220010&adpos=1o13&creative=83580269820&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=CNG1lKjvncsCFQqKaQod0yAD3w
Point is that no spray can will ever look really like CAD plating. So I would look at the more durable coatings than an exact match. My 2 cents worth.