Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => General Discussion => Topic started by: admin on January 05, 2003, 18:58:03
-
Service Bulletin for replacing the heater levers...also check the operation of each cable, lube where needed...might want to change the bulbs at the same time...part of one cable can be accessed and lubed from the round black rubber cover on top of the driver's side of the engine firewall.
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) Heaterlever1.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/admin/20031520835_Heaterlever1.jpg)
103.51 KB
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) Heaterlever2.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/admin/200315201019_Heaterlever2.jpg)
118.08 KB
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) Heaterlever3.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/admin/20031520129_Heaterlever3.jpg)
112.2 KB
-
I thought for my 500th post, I should recall the very first post on this site, less than one year ago ... The counter now stands at around 5,800 posts in total.
Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic
-
Where do you find these diagrams/pictures? Is this from the BBB book, which I have never seen?
-CD-
1967 230SL, 113.042 10
1983 300TDT, 123.193
-
Yes, Chad,
It's from the Big Blue Book, the "Werkstatthandbuch PKW-Typen ab August 1959".
It's still available (as a reprint) from DaimlerChrysler, either as a CD or paperback. It's also often offered on ebay.
Good luck,
Achim
(Magdeburg, Germany)
-
The BBB also includes the information on changing the blower motor. (What looks to be a thoroughly delightful job?!?!?)
Jonny B
1967 250SL Auto
-
Jonny,
it's not so bad the second time around...
George Davis
'69 280 SL Euro manual
-
Ouch, sorry to hear there had to be a second time!
Jonny B
1967 250SL Auto
-
I am following the BBB instructions as shown in the 3 pictures and have completed removal of the 3-part escutcheon (step 10). But now I am stuck in step 11 (picture #3).
In order to "tilt the operating system (1) downward" the levers need to be pushed in and through the narrow slits that were covered by the escutcheon. I can push the right side in somewhat because that control cable (2) is longer and will bend, but the left control cable (3) to the fresh-air flap is short and stiff and cannot be compressed. Who can help? What am I missing here or doing wrong?
Thanks!
Alfred
1966 blue 230SL automatic
-
I seem to remember detaching the cables first reaching through the speaker opening, glove box, and radio opening so I could turn the levers easier. (Pre-tape your wrists and knuckles for the inevitable cuts)
Pete S.
-
Note: This service bulletin is for the 230SL's and the early 250SL's as the dash has a large metal piece that surrounds the radio and clock, that is removable. The later 250SL's and 280SL's don't have this convenience. Things are a bit tighter with those with sticking your hands through the radio opening.
Walter Klatt
1967 220SL-diesel
1963 230SL-gas
-
Pete and Walter,
thanks for your comments. Detaching the 4 cables was the only way I could get it out - fortunately, no cuts, and all fingers are still intact :) .
Now I am pondering whether I should remove the heater core and replace the valve O-rings, although it worked fine on a cold day in January.
Alfred
1966 blue 230SL automatic
-
If you replace the valve o-rings for the heater side of things, watch out! Even after I was shown by an experienced pagoda mechanic what to do and how to insure I wouldn't loose the parts in the recesses of the area between the engine fire-wall and intereor, I still screwed up.
I got the valve out just fine, replaced the o-ring, honed the inside of the cylinder very lightly, greased things up well (plumber's grease... light coat) and started to put the valve back into the cylinder. So I shoved it just a tad too far and hadn't re-installed the screw (on top) so I had something to grasp, and if fell all the way thru the cylinder down into the recesses of the water cavity beneith the valve/opening area.
I spent a cumulative 5 hrs fishing the damned thing back out... and it CAN be done... (it's brass, so a magnetic wand is useless).... but I've come across a couple of other's that have done the same thing but didn't have the patience or whatever it takes... gave up and bought a new valve piston and just left the old one rattling in the water well.
So.... my suggestion, if you pull the valve/piston out to replace the O-ring...
1. First, pack rags around the valve opening area so that nothing... not a thing, can fall down between the firewall and interior wall. IF anything does fall down there it can only be taken out from inside the car by removing the whole blower assembly and then some.... a big job and not worth it... and thankfully, I haven't had to do this chore yet (knock on wood).
2. screw the top screw back in as soon as you've undone whatever it is that screw's holding (I forget what it's holding), so that you have something to grasp easily.
3. Tie some fishing line (high test) to the screw head... keep tension on it though.
4. After you successfully remove the valve body, replace the o-ring.... still have that line attached though otherwise you might get all excited and stick the valve body back into the cylinder before you realize you forgot to have a safety cord attached.
5. Use a small hone and lightly hone the inside of the cylinder.... very lightly... or not at all if it's clean as a whistle anyway.... mine had been frozen in place after 16 years of sitting unused.... and probably several years more than that since I couldn't move the heater lever when I got it, so the prior owner had probably left the heater "ON" all the time anyway.
6. When you place the valve body back into the hole (cylinder), keep tension on the line attached to the top (screw head), and use your fingers to hold onto the screw head while pushing the body back into the hole. It's not easy though, because the o-ring is a really tight fit in the cylinder.... so don't push too hard without simultaneously holding on.
7. When it get's back in position, you have to make sure the open position hole's are lined up (hole in valve body and hole in cylinder... and I've forgotten just how that works anymore, but there are 2 possible ways... one way is right, the other is wrong... somebody else on the forum can instruct you on how to make sure the alignment is right (... put a mark on the valve body (on top somewhere) so you know how it and the lever are supposed to be lined up when you re-install).
8. After it's snuggly in place, THEN un-do the screw (which severs your safety cable), and CAREFULLY re-attach the thing the screw attaches to the valve body without shoving the body down any... or it'll likely slip all the way thru.
Another option is to take it to an experienced mechanic that knows the 113 type heater valve and all the things that can go wrong, and pay him to do it. Besides that, they've probably got the technique in fishing the valve body out of the well down pat... I can imagine how many inexperienced mechanics or do-it-yourselvers like us have screwed this up and taken it to an experienced shop to "fix it".
Longtooth
67 250SL US #113-043-10-002163
95 SL500