Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => General Discussion => Topic started by: J. Huber on April 07, 2005, 12:35:14
-
Can it be done? Any creative ideas on how?
Hate to buy new ones when my upholstery is still darn good -- its just that the panels have bowed bigtime.
And no, there is not a plastic sheet behind them and hasn't been for a long time. Shame shame. The inner door bottoms have not rusted, however, so that is good.
James
63 230SL
-
James,
Wood warps towards the side that's wet and it is sometimes possible to re-warp wood in the opposite direction by wetting the other side. If you have a steamer for removing wrinkles from clothes, it may be worth a try but I'd imagine your wood is very brittle.
Douglas Kim
New York, NY
280 SL #016220
-
Thanks Douglas. I thought about taking a hot shower with my panels ... (for the steam, you smart-alecks out there)...
Now when you say wood -- I assumed the doors were more of a rigid cardboard. In my case the warping appears to be away from the wet side (as it is bulging into the interior). But it could be brittle nonetheless.
James
63 230SL
-
why not wet the cardboard backing, protect the interior fabric side with a towel and then put a piece of plywood on top with some weight - maybe it will go back towards flatter - if not - nothing lost... just a thought
-
Can't you get new panel boards? Should be able to use the old ones if they aren't too badly damaged.
Dan Caron's
SL Barn
benzbarn@ebtech.net
slbarn.mbz.org
-
I guess I was trying to avoid pulling off upholstery. I do think the boards are available and not that pricey (35 or something?) I may try Bhap's idea first...Thanks all.
James
63 230SL
-
James,
The boards are readily available. I just got a pair from SLS in Germany. They are pre-drilled and are even stiffer than the original boards. I paid 33 Euros each.
Here's a link for the diagram available on SLS website.
http://sls.sparebase.de/bin/dbframes.phtml?mid=IN01
Mo
69 280 SL Silver/Black
-
James
I think the answer that you are looking for is that these masonite like panels will reflatten if you get them wet enough and then secure them flat with some weights...means leaving them off the car for a week, but I would suggest laying them on a wet towel for a day or so and then remove the towel and place enough weight to hold them flat. If they are really warped, try to place some strips under them that will help to push the material beyond the desired position in the opposite direction of the warp. I've done this to correct warped table tops etc. If you try to remove the tex/leather to replace the panel, you may well end up with more damage as the stuff gets brittle after 40 years.
No surprise that your aluminum door has not rusted :D
Ricardo
-
James,
Have you got the door cards off?
If so, have got a flat steel plate held with two screws in the middle of the door inner frame?
naj
65 230SL
68 280SL
-
Hi Naj. No, they are not off at the moment...Perhaps soon. I just have a hard time dismantling things when my spring fever is raging... Is there something I should be looking for?
James
63 230SL
-
Yes, James,
The plate is secured by 2 screws to the door frame and has a third hole to secure the door card to the door.
A screw fits under the the arm rest so pulling the door from the door frame rather than trying to pull out the door card. Also keeps the card in place rather than dislodging it from the bottom channel.
My original card on the 230 has these holes but it was not drilled thru the covering material.
naj
65 230SL
68 280SL
-
That's interesting Naj. Would that screw be accessed from the finished inner door side? (where the lock, window crank, etc are)... I looked and see no sign of it. And I can tell you, whenever I remove door card, thats not a step. What is noticeable is the warping (or bulging) of the door card is right at the armrest, so its clearly not fastened to anything.
James
63 230SL
-
quote:
Originally posted by J. Huber
What is noticeable is the warping (or bulging) of the door card is right at the armrest, so its clearly not fastened to anything.
Maybe you're simply missing the bolt that goes in under the arm rest on the door. You pretty much have to sit on the ground with the door open to see it, but it should be there.
Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both tops
1994 E420
-
Could be Rodd. To be clear, are you also saying that when removing your "door card" (I like saying that) you remove a screw or bolt near the armpad?
James
63 230SL
-
Yes, James,
If this screw is fitted, you will see it under the arm pad.
Are your dood cards original?
naj
65 230SL
68 280SL
-
No screws there. No sign of previous screws either. Original as far as I know -- been the same for 26 years at least!
But it is clear that the rising at the armrests is what is causing bottom to not make it into the channel correctly.
James
63 230SL
-
Hi, James,
I am away and cannot photograph my door for you. However, this eBay auction:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10076&item=4543104619&rd=1
has a photo that shows the location of the hole you seem to be missing. In the "V" formed between the armrest and the pocket, the "dot" that you can see is the hole. On my car, the screw that fits into this hole has a bright trim ring around it (like the screws under the dash).
-David Pease
'66 French 230SL
-
Yaa, David,
That seems to be the correct location.
Here's a pic of the plate.
Note the li'lle screw in the bottom hole. I used that to mark the card on the 280 which didn't have the hole drilled in it.
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) DrLck01.JPG (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/naj/2005413125727_DrLck01.JPG)
36.32 KB
naj
-
Nice examples. No screw for sure there on mine. Once I get door off, I will confirm that the plate behing will take a screw. My feeling is that I would still need to do some flattening before securing door card. Otherwise, the tension of the bow might work against me. Thanks all.
By the way, does anyone know if those small rubber thingys that help hold the lock rod mechanism are available? You can see them in Naj's photo.
James
63 230SL
-
JH,
I don't think MB do those rubber posts any longer but I just got some off Neimoeller.de.
Maybe some US suppliers do them too?
naj
65 230SL
68 280SL
-
Well, I did some exploring. My door seems a little different inside than Naj's. No bracket and a lot more grunge....
If you look closely, there is a small screw hole that might possibly be where original card screwed in. Also you can see how warped the card is on shot #2. Are they supposed to be completely flat or are there some undulations?
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) door4.JPG (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/J.%20Huber/200541412021_door4.JPG)
60.8 KB
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) door3.JPG (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/J.%20Huber/200541412130_door3.JPG)
48.48 KB
James
63 230SL
-
James,
There may be 2 holes hiding behind the black stuff.
The screw under the arm pad would actually land in the air space below the center member.
Hope you'll be able to see the holes in this pic. Also on a 230SL.
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) esn041.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/naj/2005414143546_esn041.jpg)
29.85 KB
The door cards on my 230 are flat. No undulations.
I think moisture has taken a toll on your card.
naj
65 230SL
68 280SL
-
quote:
Originally posted by naj
The door cards on my 230 are flat. No undulations.
I think moisture has taken a toll on your card.
naj
65 230SL
68 280SL
Sadly, moisture has taken its toll on my CAR as well as my card. :?
Yet, still love the old Guzzi. I went ahead and sewed it back up -- doesn't look half as bad from the outside! I can live with it for now. Thanks for all the input.
James
63 230SL