Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: sens on February 26, 2024, 11:41:37
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Hello,
I replaced the engine mounts on my 250SL and it was about time to do that!!
The gear box mount was still is very good shape.
The new mounts are about 15 mm higher compared to the old ones.
I am a little worried about the engine height with respect to the hood clearance.
I attached some pictures of what I measured.
It looks the engine is not horizontal at all, but maybe that is OK.
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You probably want to change the suspension to body mounts also. I believe they will raise the body up in relation to the engine.
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Yes, I think you are probably right.
You mean the rubber subframe mounts?
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Hi SENS here is the measure on my 280 . If it can help ?
3.8 mm
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Thanks Yves!
Helps a lot!!
Your 38 mm compared to the 47 mm in my case means the engine is 1 cm higher!
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My motor rubber mounts are new ....! 2000 km
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Also make sure you have the spacer/washer correctly installed at the transmission mount. It will lower the front of the engine.
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Excellent suggestion Urban.
I will buy one and put it in place!
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Yes, I think you are probably right.
You mean the rubber subframe mounts?
Yes, that's what Kevin is talking about. If your subframe mounts are collapsed, then new ones will "raise up" the body from the subframe & engine. I assume there would be a measurement that could be made with everything in place to learn if new mounts are needed. I started a new thread in the Body sub-forum to find out.
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=37807.0
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I've been reading old threads about subframe mounts. Some smart people said if you're doing engine, transmission, and subframe mounts, then you should replace the rear axle mount and swing arm bushings as well. This helps align the drive shaft and prevent destruction of the flex disk! And, it fixes everything you should need to have a tight, smooth ride. No weak spots. So, you start working to fix one problem and you end up fixing five or six! We should all be used to that, right? ;)
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Job done!
I removed the old mounts and they were more than dead.
I used a spring clamp to keep tension on the spring. The mount on the drivers site went pretty easy, the other one was a little more difficult, but with a piece of wood between the case and the sub frame it was absolutely doable. I put a jack under the wooden beam, pushed it upwards and that gave me enough space to exchange the mount. This process is safe and controllable.
The result was that I have 1 cm more clearance to the hood.
I also replaced the gear box support and added a 5 mm spacer. That gave even more clearance to the hood.
Problem solved!!!
Thanks for all your support!!!
Halvor
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..., but with a pice of wood between the case and the sub frame it was absolutely doable.
Congratulations Halvor! It's so satisfying to get it done, right?
What is the "case" you reference above?
The result was that I have 1 cm more clearance to the hood. I also replaced the gear box support and added a 5 mm spacer. That gave even more clearance to the hood.
When adding spacers or shims, keep in mind that professional engineers designed it so there would be a straight line through the engine, transmission, drive shaft, and differential. One common plane for everything. So, be cautious that you're not tilting part of the equation.
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Hi Rodd!
I meant body in stead of “case”. Sorry…
I am aware of the straight line I have to follow. I plan to change the rear axle rubbers soon; then I will measure the “plane”, as you say.
Thanks for your suggestion!
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It looks to my eyes like the top of the valve cover is 17mm above the straight line across the front fenders. Fortunately mine is slightly less but does anyone know what the maximum height of the top of the valve cover can be before it makes contact with the hood?
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Hi Leester!
The bottum of the wood is resting on the 2 fenders, so that is the place to read your measurement: 37 mm.
Hope this helps.
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Thanks for the clarification Halvor. Like the rest of me, my eyes are performing less and less reliably!
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I had to add a 3mm spacer washer to the transmission mount in order to get it a straight line. Also, if this is too low you may not be able to remove the valve cover.
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FYI, I just started a line of motor mount inserts that fit under the mounts to keep them from collapsing. Mostly sold 190SL sets but have the tooling for the 113 mounts. I'll post something in the next day or so in the commercial section.
Wallace
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Could you tell me where exactly you measure the straight line?
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Could you tell me where exactly you measure the straight line?
https://www.sls-hh-shop.de/main/en/mercedes-230-280sl-w113-/22-enginemounts
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Thanks!