Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: KevinC on October 09, 2005, 15:03:32
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After complaining about a sagging rear (don't you hate when that happens?) my mechanic changed the compensating spring (apparently the pads(?) had been done previously). Anyway, now believe I have rear aligment issues.
Any thoughts on correcting this? Is a rear alignment possible?
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Kevin
Boca Raton, FL
1967 230 SL Automatic
670 Light Ivory
113 Bronze/Brown MB Tex
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I believe someone on this site told me about rear alignment. I think it was Mr. George Dees. He told me here that there is a nut on the rear axel that makes the rear axel go left or right. This not is right above the axel spring. However, the alignment guy told me that this was the nut that adjusted the drive shaft.
Now I trust Mr. George Dees way way more than this mechanic at Canadian Tire, but the mechanic did manage to put some doubt in my mind. I would check again with Mr. G Dees and Dr. Benz, they can give u the answers u need. So email them or post a message, they are really good at getting back promptly.
Warm Regards,
H
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This I think can be rectified by changing the thickness of the spring pads. The nut on the rear axle that iceberg is referring to is to center the rear differential, not to change the pitch of the wheels/tires. Probably if you do a search you will come up with a number of useful tips. Also it may help to check here:
http://www.sl113.org/articles/default.asp
Cees ("Case") Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic
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Hi Kevin.
If possible, could you post your alignment final numbers?
fyi... my rear looks similar to yours... When you sit in the car, the add'l weight should straighten out the wheels. Also, when you put your hard top on... the add'l weight will, should correct it also...
Bob
bpossel
Memphis, TN.
1971 280SL
1997 E320
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From the photos it actually looks about right, 'though a real camber measurement would be better than the eyeball.
The rear camber spec (going from memory) is positive 1.5 degrees, +/- 0.5 degrees, measured with hardtop installed, full fuel tank, and spare tire and tools in trunk. Y'all know what positive camber is, but I'll repeat it anyway: tires tilted outward at the top (as in the photos) is positive camber.
My car now sits much like the one in the photos (hardtop off) but settles nicely with the trunk loaded for a trip. Rear tire wear is much less this way, too.
George Davis
'69 280 SL Euro manual
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Should the rear alignment be checked with the weight of the driver :?:
Mike Halleck
Chesterfield Mi
71 280SL
68 250SL (parts car)
94 E320 Coupe
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quote:
Originally posted by norton
Should the rear alignment be checked with the weight of the driver :?:
Mike Halleck
Chesterfield Mi
71 280SL
68 250SL (parts car)
94 E320 Coupe
No .. They want you using Curb Weight specs. Driver weight would be Test Load specs , which are not preferred for camber adjust.
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Thanks to all. I will bring this info to my alignment shop and check the results vs what you are suggesting.
-Kevin
Kevin
Boca Raton, FL
1967 230 SL Automatic
670 Light Ivory
113 Bronze/Brown MB Tex
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keven:
What size are the spring pads on the rear suspension? They could very well cause your positive camber problem Down sizing the spring pads should tuck the tires into a positive camber stance.
I know because I replaced my 18 millimeter pads with 24 MM and new compensator spring and pads it has the same positive stance in the rear as your 280SL. I am going to replace the rear ppads back to 18 and that should help cure the problem.
Bob Geco
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quote:
Originally posted by KevinC
After complaining about a sagging rear my mechanic changed the compensating spring.
Kevin,
How does a mechanic know that a spring needs replaced? Was it put under load and found to compress too much for the given pressure?
Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both tops
1994 E420
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Exactly.
Kevin
Boca Raton, FL
1967 230 SL Automatic
670 Light Ivory
113 Bronze/Brown MB Tex
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A common mistake and resulting problem when changing the comp spring is the installer uses the 6mm pads on each side of the new spring.. This will result in too much + camber , equally on each side .
The 6mm pads are usually used to correct for a weak comp spring , as they are max. If a new spring is used , they should start with the thinner pads and then check the camber .. remember , camber on swings is the total dimension of spring and pads, both comp and suspension springs, so the only way to tell which pad are needed is trial and error unless yuo are changing all to new . Then the charts can be used...