Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => General Discussion => Topic started by: Michel MB280SL on June 28, 2006, 22:55:42
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This is my first experience with the 280 SL and I'm looking for sound information. I have experienced overheating of the engine since the valves and camshaft were replaced. The temp will remain constant at 180F when the car is moving but will creep up to the red indicator in traffic and 80F weather. My mechanic says this is normal and that these engines are well known for overheating. Reading from the owner's manual, M-B indicates at page 31 that: " During hot weather the temperature may rise to 239F (red spot on gauge) without causing concern". I can hardly accept this comment from M-B and believe that the engine temp should not rise beyond 195-200F in any case.
Can 70-71 280 SL owners provide me with their experience. What is the temp in their cars in stop and go traffic.
Thanks for any help!
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Hi Michel,
I'm having the same problem with my 70 280SL. Take a look at the responses I've received from my posting. It appears to be an elusive fix at best. May we both find the answers.
Don't give up!
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Strange how many people report this same problem. There is no end of observations & comments about all the basics and how to address them. Yet even after doing all of those typical things the vexing problem of engine overheating seems to persist. Or at least so it seems for late model 280SLs, especially with A/C. Maybe this is the ultimate mystery of the M-B world(?). Perhpas I've missed it, but has anyone ever identified and then clearly articulated/communicated the overlaying & fundamental cause(s) behind this Pagoda shortcoming?
Tom in Boise
'71 280SL 4-spd, signal red w/lt. tan interior, restored/enhanced
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I have tried all possible solutions- recored radiator, new fan clutch, water wetter, new water pump. I have explored the additional electric fan solution with no satisfactory resolution. My main fix is AC off, one quick burst in traffic sends the needle soaring, and venting the heat into the cabin lovely on a nice hot day
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I have a 70 280sl but does not have the overheating problem. I have a/c but it is not hooked up. My heater is not connected also. I do not have a thermostat because my mechanic said I do not need it in my region (East Bay). The car has the auxillary fan installed (it is from Hawaii) but I never have to use it. the car can sit idle for a long time and the temperature remained at the middle of the gauge around 180 I believe. I hope this information could be of some use.
Louis 70 280sl Red Auto
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Hello,
I have owned my 1970 280SL for over 24 years :) and never had an overheating problem until recently :( . My mechanic changed the suspect thermostat and bad points, and had the suspect radiation acid cleaned. He said that it is much better; however, the temperature will climb if it idles for about ten minutes but it does not get much over 100 degree Celsius. I will pick the car up today and will see if this is satisfactory with the driving that I do :?: ; especially in light that a lot of effort and money could be spent with little to no significant change.
In addition, it seemed that my car backfired more as of late. Hopefully, some of the recent changes to help fix the overheating problem will take care of this symptom also. Has anyone experienced this?
Yes, indeed overheating seems to be a problem that haunts some of us :twisted: , and hopefully my overheating ghost has been somewhat exorcized ;) .
Cheers,
Danny
1970 280SL silver Euro manual
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Danny -- Does your '70 280SL also have A/C?
Tom in Boise
'71 280SL 4-spd, signal red w/lt. tan interior, restored/enhanced
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Tom,
My car does not have air conditioning.
Cheers,
Danny in Denver
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This seems to be the time of year when "overheating" becomes an issue. In the winter people notice their heaters don't work -- or worse yet -- their tops leak...
In 20 years, overheating has rarely been an issue for me. I say rarely, because 95 percent of the time, my needle will not budge. Of course, our version of traffic here is a family of deer crossing the road.... However, one time my car did overheat -- and it was an eye-opener. I've related the story before but here is a synopsis: One warm sunday evening in 1991, while heading home to Santa Barbara from San Diego, needle started to rise. I noticed it, and pulled off the freeway and let it cool down, also added water. This was a Sunday mind you -- no shops, etc open. Also pre-cell phone. Anyway, back on the road -- still running hot. Kept stopping at gas stations, then about Ventura decided I had to go for it. Well, needle rose and rose and then even disappeared! 10 miles from home, the car just quit. A complete rebuild of the upper engine was next. Now I watch that needle like a hawk. In fact, it started to move a few years back -- I replaced radiator with a H/E. Has been steady ever since...
Moral of a very long story -- these cars can run normally much of the time -- but if needle moves, Passen Sie Auf! (pay attention!)
James
63 230SL
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Same problem here! 71 280 sl , auto, air conditioning. Tried a new raditor, water wetter etc.. all to no avail. On a 90 degree day, the needle instantly moves up when stopped at a light.. I drive all summer with the heat on and top down.
I finally had enough and shipped the car to SL TECH ... I'll let you know how it turns out when I get it back.
Ken G
1971 280 SL
Silver/red
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Ken -- Great move, IMO, sending your car to Gernold. If I had it all to do over that's exactly what I'd do.
Yours is yet another late model 280SL with A/C, and an overheating issue... Might there be a pattern here?
As some on this board are aware, I've been battling this one for a long time. But I think I'm almost there. For example, on a very hot day last summer (108 degrees) I let the car idle (setting on asphalt, and with the top off) for 1/2 hr. with the A/C running at max. The engine held temp. and the A/C continued to blow cold air. The only remaining issue now is long & steep mountain inclines (going up several thousand feet) on the hottest of days (100+ degrees), climbing under throttle, with the top off, and with the A/C running full blast. We have some final tweaks (at least I hope that's all it'll be) to do to get this to my full satisfaction.
Regarding this particular issue my expectations are high. When it comes to this sort of thing, well, to each his own I suppose. But neither my wife nor I are disposed to giving up on this particular creature comfort.
Best of luck on your project. I suspect you'll be very pleased with the result from SL Tech.
Tom in Boise
'71 280SL 4-spd, signal red w/lt. tan interior, restored/enhanced
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quote:
Originally posted by Michel MB280SL
Reading from the owner's manual, M-B indicates at page 31 that: " During hot weather the temperature may rise to 239F (red spot on gauge) without causing concern".
From this owner's manual quote, and all that you guys are writing, it sounds like a manufacturing issue that M-B knew about and told us about in the owner's manual. If they could not get around an over heating problem then I'm sure it will be tough for us to get around it.
Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both tops
1994 E420
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I see your logic Rodd, but I just can't quite buy the "red spot is ok" mentality. I have seen the needle NOT move long enough to feel that when things are working correctly, the car stays at a very consistent temperature. If it moves a bit, I'll concede it's within a "normal range" -- but going up to the red has to be some cause for concern. Thats way up there.
James
63 230SL
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quote:
Originally posted by rwmastel
quote:
Originally posted by Michel MB280SL
Reading from the owner's manual, M-B indicates at page 31 that: " During hot weather the temperature may rise to 239F (red spot on gauge) without causing concern".
From this owner's manual quote, and all that you guys are writing, it sounds like a manufacturing issue that M-B knew about and told us about in the owner's manual. If they could not get around an over heating problem then I'm sure it will be tough for us to get around it.
Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both tops
1994 E420
Yup. I've read that in my manual too. It's interesting though that the head recirc. kit was developed to help address this problem. Even after doing all the many things typically recommended, including the addition of the recirc. kit, my '71 Pagoda still moved to the red while sitting through a long stop light. Under such conditions I found driving the car was anything but a pleasure. To get my 280SL to hold temp under the hottest conditions (with A/C running) has indeed proven difficult...but not impossible. (still gotta little bit of work left to do on the steep mountain climbing thing though).
Tom in Boise
'71 280SL 4-spd, signal red w/lt. tan interior, restored/enhanced
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For the sake of discussion, I checked my 230SL manual and it reads slightly different.
"This vehicle has an overpressure cooling system. Therefore, the cooling water will only boil at 239F (115C) (red mark on cooling water thermometer). When driving in the mountains or in areas with high oustide temperatures, the cooling water may rise up to 239F (115C) [red mark]"
I take this to mean that the red mark is the absolute point where the boiling starts. Anything after that, of course is bad. Now, I interpret the "may rise up to 239F" as: if it doesn't reach a boil, nothing gets damaged. (from a mechanical standpoint) This is different than "all is well" i.e at say 235F there is "no cause for concern." Instead, I think that gauge is signaling the rise -- and if it gets anywhere close to that red mark, I'd be concerned. Imagine making pasta, that moment where the water comes to a boil is pretty sudden. Make any sense?
James
63 230SL
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Is the temperature control more of a problem with the 280 than with the 250 and 230? Is the placement of the temperature guage senor in same location for all three?
My 280 never goes to last white mark on the gauge (temp. ?) even when pulling hills but it gets close. If I open the heater valve it will drop down immediately. Is the heater just adding cooling capacity or is it the proximity of the heater hose connection on the head to the temperature sensor?
Dick M
1970 280SL
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Here we go again......
There IS something about late model 280SL's with air that makes them run hot. It's obvious and I'm surprised that no one has picked up on it.
Dan Caron's
SL Barn
benzbarn@ebtech.net
slbarn.mbz.org
1 877 661 6061
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My '68 280 with A/C didn't run hot the first two years. (Due to other issues I haven't run it this year.) But, I am wondering if Dr. Benz is alluding to timing advance and idle differences because of the air pollution plumbing on the later model cars?
If so, it begs the question, "What's the solution?"
Ray
'68 280SL 4-spd Coupe
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Come on guys! I'm surprised that this overheating problem is so common with the car and that no solution has ever been found in 36 years... I'm sad to realize that my local M-B mechanic is right and that these otherwise wonderful cars do have an unsolvable heating problem in traffic. Did even the M-B engineering department abandoned their customers?
I'm taking the car in next week to have the timing and mixture redone for a third time and hope this will make the engine behave. I do have A/C installed in the car but I'm not using it. I have not had the system restarted with the new freon yet. I'm going at the car by priority and want the overheating solved before I spend any money on other things. If I can't solve this, I guess I'll have no other choice but to get rid of the car. I don't want to have to do the valves, cam and head again.
Thanks for all info. If you have had any success, please indicate how you didi it.
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where in Canada are you?
1999 ml320<sold it at last>
2004 Volvo s60 T5
1971 280sl
1962 VW bug
1954 Allstate vespa
1958 gs150 vespa
1962 gs160 vespa
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My 280 SL is from 1969 and it never runs warmer than 80 degrees C, the middle of the scale. We've been having an official heat wave (30 degrees C plus = 86 degrees F) the past couple of days, and still the cooling is fine. No modifications, no 'water wetter', original fan, the fan clutch was replaced w/ new about 4 years ago. Just had the coolant replaced, no influence on the engine temperature. So it can work, I suppose.
Cees ("Case") Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic
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Hi All!
Maybe instead of discussing the heat issue tied to model year, we should be discussing it as engine model, M129 vs M130? We know that there must have been a heat issue with the M130's because MB cut add'l water channels in-between the cylindar walls of the M130's. Correct? I have wondered if on some of the M130 engines, the extra (thin) water channels between the cylinders are plugged with gunk? Maybe from lack of proper maintenance, and/or from just lack of being driven?
Any additional comments on this?
Bob
(http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/bpossel/20064268914_280sl.jpg)
bpossel (Memphis, TN.)
'71 280SL / '97 E320
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I'd suggest there might be something to Bob Possel's comment. I can safely say that my car does NOT overheat, but the temperature does climb alarmingly in very hot operating conditions in stop and go traffic. It is the stop and go--when moving, even slowly, it is OK.
As witness to repeated "Woodward Dream Cruise" events here in Michigan where literally tens of thousands of older cars from the 1950's and 60's come out and cruise Woodward, I can tell you that the "problem" of overheating isn't specific to our cars--many old cars do it. And, they used to do it when new, too--overheating used to be be far more common then it is on modern cars today.
When the tranny blew up on my 113 a few years ago, we sat in my Ford Explorer idling for an hour with the air conditioning on full blast, on the side of the road when it was 100 degrees outside, and the temp gauge didn't budge off N for normal. That's modern cooling. And, the A/C kept the interior a refreshing 72 degrees.
Michael Salemi
1969 280SL
Signal Red w/Black Leather
Restored
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This car here has the M128 I believe, whatever the number is. Anyway, it is the first older car I've had that absolutely refused to overheat under any circumstances. Now I just wish that I didn't overheat driving around inside there during this hot weather. Sometimes I think about an A/C for it, but it's so much work, and I just can't bring myself to change things.
The cooling systems are comparably good on these cars.
1967 230SL (Manual, rustless driver)
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I've had this M128 230SL through the Mohave, Arizona/Sedona and all of NM, the South, and just plain sticky Eastcoast days. It's a former desert rat. It has never overheated. It is the first older car I've had that hasn't done this. The original engine fan. No A/C, stick. Just a normal base model... By the way does anyone know where they sell the radio delete plates?
I'm going to go shower all the sweat off -- the car is a former desert rat but I am not.
1967 230SL (Manual, rustless driver)
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It's like this....
The 127,129 and M130 engines are all the same size - on the outside. They all started from the original 220SE from about 1958. A 220S/SE has a huge rad and those cars never overheat as a rule and they have a small cooling fan compared to a 280SL. Even the 230SL has a small fan ( similar to the 220SE )
So, how did they increase engine size? Well, from the 220SE to the 230SL they used larger pistons and increased compression ratio. From the 230SL to the 250SL they increased the length of the stroke but the bore stayed the same as did the radiator size. The 250SL also had an oil cooler - these things are bullet proof.
The 280SL had to have the cylinders enlarged and moved closer together which meant less area for cooling water. This was improved by adding a number of extra cooling passages but the smaller rad offers less cooling. The air oil cooler only really works when the car is moving at speed and no air is moving under the car to cool the oil pan. Add to this A/C and you have extra heat that has nowhere to go but into already hot parts. All that A/C gear tends to restrict air flow around less than optimal cooling.
The late cars have distributor timing controls that retard ignition which will also make the engine run hotter. There is a 100C thermo switch that will shut off the vacuum and advance the ignition to help cool the engine a bit and I think the A/C is plummed into this system so that it shuts off ignition retard with the A/C on. A lot of time this stuff isn't working or working right. A lower temp switch than 100C might be a good idea.
As I've said before, people expect too much from these old cars. The 280SL engine was a highly modifed 220SE engine - probably a little bit beyond where they should have gone. It's not unreasonable for this engine to run hot on a hot day when the design was right on the edge to begin with.
So, in summmary, the more you stress an engine the hotter it will run. The more you add to the engine the hotter it will run. A/C and US regs were after thoughts to the design and worked OK under ideal conditions when conditions were ideal. How often is that 35 years after the fact?
Dan Caron's
SL Barn
benzbarn@ebtech.net
slbarn.mbz.org
1 877 661 6061
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:) Thank you very much to each and all that have taken the time to share info on this burning topic. Here is my plan;
1- Re-verify the adjustments for valves, ignition timing, dwell angle, CO test for fuel mixture and strobe timing check.
2- Flush/clean engine and refill. Ensure no air bubble remain in the system.
If this is not satisfactory, I plan to add the Pertronix or Crane electronic ignition and then finally, the M-B engine head bypass modification for USA 280SL.
Hopefully, this will bring the car performance to a level that I will feel comfortable with even if it isn't perfect. So I'm not ready to give up yet. I'm from Montreal, Canada. We get two and a half months with damp 80 to 90 degree weather and are forced to drive in slow (mostly stopped)heavy traffic that bring hell to our driving enjoyment.
I'll keep the group posted on the results.
Note: Special thanks to Dr Benz (Dan Caron) for his expert advice.
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quote:
Originally posted by Michel MB280SL
Here is my plan;
1- Re-verify the adjustments for valves, ignition timing, dwell angle, CO test for fuel mixture and strobe timing check.
2- Flush/clean engine and refill. Ensure no air bubble remain in the system.
If this is not satisfactory, I plan to add the Pertronix or Crane electronic ignition and then finally, the M-B engine head bypass modification for USA 280SL.
You might want to start with the M-B engine head bypass modification for USA 280SL. I have no personal experience with it, but many here seem to think it's a big help.
Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both tops
1994 E420
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Do you think you can make it down here for '' The meeting of the clans '' on July 29th - 30th? A few people from the Montreal area are coming. Richard from Shawville and a guy with a 190SL is supposed to be coming. How about you?
Dan Caron's
SL Barn
benzbarn@ebtech.net
slbarn.mbz.org
1 877 661 6061
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Cees, Come on! 86F is a heat wave? Here in Florida we're just getting comfortable. Today it was a balmy 92F. Positively cool for July. 8)
Okay I admit I wanted a jacket when we rode in your fabulous 280 last month. It was in the mid 60s if I recall.
To all you other folks, if you find yourself in Amsterdam, Mr. Klumper's car is a great example of how our cars should run. Smooth as silk, goes when you kick it, and an automatic transmission that shifts so smoothly you can't believe it's a Pagoda. A car that well tuned doesn't overheat.
Ray
'68 280SL 4-spd Coupe
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quote:
Originally posted by Benz Dr.
Do you think you can make it down here for '' The meeting of the clans '' on July 29th - 30th? A few people from the Montreal area are coming. Richard from Shawville and a guy with a 190SL is supposed to be coming. How about you?
Dan Caron's
SL Barn
benzbarn@ebtech.net
slbarn.mbz.org
1 877 661 6061
Thank you very much Dan. I had seen the invite yesterday and admit I would have loved to go. Unfortunately, I have an engagement for that very weekend here with my sisters. I will certainly make every effort to participate in one of the M-B Club event this summer and hope to meet you there.
I wish you well and prompt recovery following your operation.
Good luck with the event. It seems it will be well sought after.
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Hello Michel,
If your car did not overheat before the work was done you may have some issues to deal with. It could be a big problem like the wrong head gasket. There is an early and a late head gasket for the 280 series M130 engine. See "cylinder head chart". Or something else has gone bad like the fan clutch or some kind of blockage. Its hard to diagnose long distance without knowing all the facts.
I used to service one 1971 280 SL many years ago, nearly new, it was just out of warranty. It was a USA model with AC and it did want to overheat in stop and go traffic with AC on in very warm weather. Some owners have added heavy duty radiators to cure the problem. Most of the time with non AC cars, something else just needs fixed.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
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I know about the two different head gaskets on the 280SL. If you use the late gasket on the early engine it will burn through in short order and fill the oil pan with water.
This happened to me once which is why I always start a rebuild on pure water.
Dan Caron's
SL Barn
benzbarn@ebtech.net
slbarn.mbz.org
1 877 661 6061
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Wow, I was never aware of these issues. Hopefully moving to Florida won't cause problems for me when I finally get my 230SL on the road... Someday!
Eugene
1965 230SL, Max Speed: Zero
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Gentlemen;
I've not had any overheating with my 280SL, but if I did, I would add auxiliary electric fans or replace fan with one with more blades...by the way, is there summer/winter theromostat choices for these cars? The elctric fans, especially directed at the oil cooler, should make a big difference...as i understand it, the Porche is mistakenly called air cooled, when in fact it has an oil intercooler so is really very dependant on the oil radiator...
R/
Joe
8)
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I've been looking at the MB instructions for improving cooling via a bypass kit that utilizes the thermo time switch opening in the head to recycle hot water out and into the radiator. On cylinder to the front of this opening is the heater core hose port in the head. You may have turned your heater on during very hot days to cycle hot water through the heater core and reduce engine temps. After reading a post from someone else I decided to bypass the heater core entirely by connecting removing hoses from the heater core and connecting them together. This seams to have improved the overall cooling of the engine quite nicely. It is very hot in DC these days and I took a ride in the heat today and have recorded the results in the attached image. This is preliminary. I have ordered two radiator hose tee fittings. I have plans to install the tee fittings in the heater hoses and route hot head water on a full time basis around the heater core. When heat is needed in the cabin I'll open the heater core valve and see is sufficient hot water will flow though the heater core to warm the cabin. A backup plan may involve using one tee in the heater hose leaving the head and adding a second tee in the lower radiator hose insted of the output heater hose. Connecting the head output directly to the lower radiator hose is similar to the Mb instructions and may improve cooloing a little more.
Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed
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T fittings arrived and have been installed. It's hot again in DC, around 95F. Here are a couple of pics which show the temp gauge and bypass hose kit. The temp in the engine compartment was about 121F when I took these pics. Engine temperature has been reduced significantly. Turned on the heater valve and received plenty of heat in the cabin. It's hot outside so a better test will be taken in the winter sometime to see if heating has been negatively effected.
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) heater hose 1a.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/jeffc280sl/200684135337_heater%20hose%201a.jpg)
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Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed
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Just to pipe in with another case: I've been driving my 250SL all week to work, as my 560SL is in the shop. I don't have A/C (of all weeks for the 560SL to act up!) and it's been in the high 90's in Atlanta. When I leave the office at 5PM, I typically drive down the freeway at 80 MPH and come to a near stand still when I hit Midtown. For the next 10 - 15 minutes I am moving at 5-10 MPH. Even in this heat, my car doesn't quite reach to next bar above 180. The radiator hasn't been recored since 1978. I have a container of Wet Wetter and have been too forgetful to add it.
Sounds like the emissions of the later 280SLs may be the culprit. I met a couple with a late '70 280SL and they complained of the overheating at idle too.
I hope you come up with the right solution!
Best Regards,
J. P. Mose
1968 250SL
1987 560SL
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Although this is an old topic, I do want to try to get you all backinto it.
I have a 1970 280SL, it never ran hot, it never overheated in heavy hot traffic. Last week I had it serviced and tuned up and yes... Now and for the first time my car overheats!
I used to be more enthusiastic and allays did the tune ups myselve, I used to write down every measurment that resulted (vaccum readings, at idle as well as on various rpms, distributor timings with and without the vacuum line connected, etc) and used those settings for every new tune up with good results every time. I wrote all those personal tips on one of those Haynes manuals, but for some reason my manual got lost.
I lost it and that is why I had someone else do this last tune up. The tune up seems and feels perfect but the thing with the temperature is something new.
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Hello Miguel,
The thermostats should never be removed and left out, on these engines. This will cause the engine to run hotter. Setting the timing out of specs can also cause the engine to run hot. Always a chance the fan clutch may have gone bad.
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Hello Joe and thanks,
I do have the thermostat installed, since the car had never had the overheating problem I never had the interest of messing with it.
I'll check the fan clutch.
If your car does not overheat, do you know the exact readings you get at Idle and at 1500rpm with and without the advance connected? I know the question doesn't make much sense since there is a few degree adjustment range that we can use for both rpms but I would like to set this exactly as someone who has no overheating problems an then move on to other adjustments. I also want to check if my advance is turning the same degrees as one which is running correctly.
Miguel
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Could the mechanic have set the timing using the wrong scale on the front pulley? I think the result would be a grossly advanced spark. But you say the car runs OK, and I would think such a miss-adjustment would be noticeable. Anyway, it's just a thought.
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One thing I would do is go back to the mechanic who did the tune-up and ask him exactly which things he did that could affect the engine temperature. Like, did he replace the coolant? Air in the system? Ignition timing? Explain to him why you are asking and try to figure out together what may explain this. Please keep us posted, this is of interest to all of us.
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Ps in 2001 I was in Mexico city and I saw a Pagoda parked roadside. Could this have been yours? I believe it was white but not 100% sure.
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Reading back through all of the posts in this tread. I found a couple of things wrong in my statements - we all learn along the way, right?
The 230SL and 250SL don't share the same radiator size. The 250 is much larger than a 230 and is the largest rad used in the three different models. 250's almost never overheat because the rad is so large on those cars.
The 280 has the same rad cradle size as a 250 but some of this space is used up by the oil cooler. The rad on a 280SL is about the same size as a 230SL rad so it's really too small for the engine. Add to this the fact that there's too little space around the cylinders for much coolant to run around through the the block on a 280SL and anything that limits normal cooling will have instant results.
If you run AC on a late 280SL engine you should have a fan shroud if you don't already have one. Make sure your engine is clean and particularly around the front of the engine. If it's covered with grease and oil, power wash this stuff off the engine.
My engine puts out about the same HP as a typical 280 engine but it never runs hot. Make sure you use the 79C thermostat. The other available thermostat is 87C and it WILL make a late 280SL engine over heat. This is the thermostat I have to run on my car because it tends to run too cold otherwise.
I used a sedan cooling fan on my car. I didn't actually realise this until someone asked for a certain sized fan for a 113 and then I noticed that my fan had blades that are almost an inch longer than the stock fan. This larger fan just fits on my 230SL and may not fit at all on the 250 and 280 SL's. In fact, I'd be inclinded to say it doesn't fit which is too bad because it moves a lot more air. The sedan model ( 280SE ) has more room in the engine bay but it's also a heavier car so they took advantage of this extra room by providing this larger fan for needed cooling.
The oiginal 113 was designed to be a 230SL and everything after that was a further modification on some sort of after thought. By the time the 280SL arrived the cooling capacity was right on the edge and anything like AC was never really going to be a good idea. When do you use AC? When it's hot outside, right?
I remove every AC system from 280SL's that I do a rebuild on if I can talk the owner ino it. Almost everyone says yes citing the fact that once the engine starts to overheat, they have to shut it off which makes AC basically useless.
In short, you will warp the head if you run the engine hot over repeated cylcles, or one very long one. Run your engine ouside of its design paremeters, and you will pay for it.
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Joe,
You were right, the fan clutch is not working properly,
It's kind of strange that it would stop running properly during a tune-up procedure, I think it has been going bad day by day, that I did not notice it maybe because of the cold weather we had on the past months. Also some tune-up missadjustment just made bad things work alltoghether.
I didn't mention but I also had the air cond serviced with new gas that same day. Overheating was obtained without usng the air cond.
Cees,
Yes, white -light Ivory with tan interiors
Mig