Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Electrical and Instruments => Topic started by: J. Huber on June 03, 2007, 11:24:08
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This is probably basic stuff for most of you but new territory for moi.
First off, manual is calling for lobes to be exactly on "block" so the gap is at its widest... I turn the engine by hand to get there? correct? And if so, how praytell. Automatic. Do I need a large socket to go on one of the fan belt pulleys? Help. Thanks
Note about this thread: It began as a basic how-to for adjusting the points but has gradually led to a discussion of setting the timing once the points are adjusted correctly...It made sense to keep the two together.
James
James
63 230SL
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James--there is an easier way. What I do is loosen the distributor bolt and turn the whole distributor until the points rubbing block is on a high point of the cam. Then I set the points with a feeler guage and tighten. This should get you in the ballpark for an accurate dwell angle reading. Now you need to check your dwell setting with a dwell meter and it is off, you can loosen the points just enough to allow slight adjustments with a flat bladed screw-driver against the two little pips on the points frame. You can now set the timing by rotating the whole distributor while aiming your timing light on the front timing marks. Regardless of what the points gap is, the dwell angle reading is much more important to smooth running.
George Des
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Thanks George. That does sound easier. Unfortunately, I won't be taking Timing Light 101 until next semester... (don't even have one yet).
However, I did figure out I needed to buy a 27mm socket to turn the engine. I also picked up some feeler gauges and a file. And then the fun began. My dwell meter was reading 28 -- and when I looked at the gap it was kind of gappy (over 016). So I tightened the gap to about .012 -- re-read the dwell...it said about 37. Wow that was easy, I thought. So I took a drive, it ran really good. Then, like an idiot, I decided to fiddle some more hoping for 38. Realized that that first adjustment was really lucky...I must have redid the gap 10 times -- with it going from low 30's back to 40s -- but never near 38. I even tried a drive with it at 40+ to see if it was close enough. Major sputtering. I was smart enough to put all my tools in the car on the test drive -- so I pulled into a shady parking lot and tried again. Finally got it to 38. Closed everything up (fast). No more sputtering, so I am claiming victory! And do I get some kind of shade-tree mechanic badge?
Having adjusted these (ad nauseum) -- my next lesson will be putting a new set in. Is it straight-forward?
PS I noticed a "nib" on one of the contact points -- would I want to file this or leave it? Thanks.
James
63 230SL
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quote:
PS I noticed a "nib" on one of the contact points -- would I want to file this or leave it? Thanks
.........I normally file them flat as its hard to get an accurate gap if there is a slight "nib" there !
Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.
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quote:
Originally posted by J. Huber
Thanks George. That does sound easier. Unfortunately, I won't be taking Timing Light 101 until next semester... (don't even have one yet).
However, I did figure out I needed to buy a 27mm socket to turn the engine. I also picked up some feeler gauges and a file. And then the fun began. My dwell meter was reading 28 -- and when I looked at the gap it was kind of gappy (over 016). So I tightened the gap to about .012 -- re-read the dwell...it said about 37. Wow that was easy, I thought. So I took a drive, it ran really good. Then, like an idiot, I decided to fiddle some more hoping for 38. Realized that that first adjustment was really lucky...I must have redid the gap 10 times -- with it going from low 30's back to 40s -- but never near 38. I even tried a drive with it at 40+ to see if it was close enough. Major sputtering. I was smart enough to put all my tools in the car on the test drive -- so I pulled into a shady parking lot and tried again. Finally got it to 38. Closed everything up (fast). No more sputtering, so I am claiming victory! And do I get some kind of shade-tree mechanic badge?
Having adjusted these (ad nauseum) -- my next lesson will be putting a new set in. Is it straight-forward?
PS I noticed a "nib" on one of the contact points -- would I want to file this or leave it? Thanks.
James
63 230SL
Back in the day when I was replacing the points in dozens of these cars every week, I would set the dwell as close to the low end of the dwell range as I could. Because as the fiber block that rubs on the cam wears down the dwell increases. So this way the points will stay in range for a longer time.
If your on the side of the road trying to get the car running file the pip of of the points, otherwise it is best to just replace them along with a new condensor.
FYI a good side of the road point gap gauge is a match book cover. very close to .016
Al Lieffring
66 230Sl
Jones'n for a new gas tank
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IMHO the gap is obtained automatically when you set the dwell to the correct amount (38 deg) because the geometry of the cam and points determines it. It is sometimes difficult to accurately measure the gap and the points surface can be contaminated using a feeler gage. Don't ever use sandpaper to clean the points: Big time contamination. Best to get new new points when they are worn excessively. They should last years. It's also difficult to see the timing marks using a timing light unless you have your eyes on a stalk like a snail. It's easy when the hood (bonnet) is removed. There is no reason why the timing should change once you set it right.
'69 280SL,Signal Red,Automatic,retired engineer, West-Seattle,WA (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/theengineer/20051219121123_Drehstern.gif)
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Good stuff guys, keep it coming! I a total neophyte -- so any little bit is huge. But a few questions in response to your input:
Engineer -- How can you set the dwell without doing the gap first? The way I am doing it is: guestimate a gap (I knew 012 to 016 was close, so I used 012) then close everything up, start car, put dwell meter on...Repeat if nec. (several!)
Ben -- do you take the points out to file them? My "pip" is so obvious that I placed feeler away from it. The idea is there is a corresponding hole on the other side? Not really sure since I did not take them out.
Al -- by low end of dwell would you mean around 35?
Anybody -- if I take old points out and put new ones in, is it just a matter of some screws? Then reset gap? Or will new ones "require" adjusting timing -- if timing is good now? Because like I said, have no idea about timing yet... Thanks.
Oh, and when I am actually adjusting the gap, I am loosening the screw near the contacts and sliding the stationary bracket away from the pivot arm, fiinding a gap, the n tightening that screw. Is this correct? The manual shows another screw #2 but I don't see it.
James
63 230SL
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1.don't touch nothin. 2. hook up dwell meter. 3.start engine & look at dwell meter: If dwell is more than 38 deg: stop engine, increase gap by a very small amount and recheck. With a little practice you can eyeball the correct gap. That's it !
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Thanks Engineer -- I think I see what you mean. That's pretty much how I started the process but was using the feelers to get an idea of the gap. My ultimate goal was the 38 -- the gap was secondary.
The parts that slowed me down a lot was A. Having to turn the engine each time to hit the lobe and B. I stink at guessing the gap...
James
63 230SL
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As I said in my post, the dwell reading is so much more important than the gap because it will take into account any wearing of the points, cam or the cam block. There is an inverse relationship between the dwell angle reading and gap. Easier way to remember this is "bigger gap-smaller dwell" and "smaller gap--bigger dwell". This may help you remember which way to adjust the gap after you take a dwell reading. Also, there is some relationship between the dwell angle and the timing, so the points should be set first. After doing this many times, you can just about make the timing adjustmment by sound and feel rather than by using the timing light. Many even find that the factory timing specs do not give the optimum running. Hope this helps.
George Des
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The dwell angle is the number of degrees the points remain closed on each lobe, in relation to the distributor rotating 360 degrees. I like to set the dwell first by removing the cap and rotor, don't forget to take the rotor off! Then while using a screwdriver in the adjusting slot with the points just tight enough so they slide with the screwdriver have an assistant turn the car over with the starter while you read the dwell and adjust the points to your setting. Then tighten the points and assemble the distributor and recheck. If you find the dwell has changed you then do the adjustment again, while adding or subtracting the running reading from you starter reading. So, if your starter turning over read 38 degrees and when running it reads 44 degrees, set it while turning over with the starter at 32 degrees and recheck. Just remember to remove the rotor or when you have the screwdriver in the adjusting slot and the car turns over you will break your rotor against your screwdriver. This has been my method for many cars and works pretty good most of the time. Just don't overheat your starter or overwork your assistant.
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Graphic66: Now there is a good idea! I never thought that I could check dwell with just cranking it. On this li'l red car of mine, I usually just pull the connector on a relay, insert a wire & touch it to the pos. battery. It's the same as energizing the lead to the thermo switch. That way, it doesn't energize the fuel pump or the ignition circuit.
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So, Graphic, are you saying you can read the dwell with the cap and rotor off? and turn the car over with things apart?
And what is this adjusting slot you speak of...is it that little oval hole near the second screw? I've been pushing the bracket to move the gap.
George -- thanks for the "bigger gap -- smaller dwell" mantra. That explains why when I had the initial 28 dwell -- the gap was gaping. But is it more common for the dwell to go out of whack higher than 38? As I have heard the concept of the "points closing" as the cause for really crappy performance.
James
63 230SL
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Just came out of the garage: My dwell meter doesn't read with the ignition off and so I just started the engine. It reads 42 degrees and doesn't change much with increase in RPM's. So, I consulted the BBB: Interesting, it says: (for my '69 with regular ignition) set points, when installing new points, at 40º and don't touch them anymore. When reading the dwell on used points it should be between 34º and 41º. When the reading reaches the lower limit, replace points.
I can't remember when I installed new points. It was a long time ago.
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For me, the easiest way to set or change the points is to pull the distributor out.
But first, turn the engine to #1 on TDC on the firing stroke. The rotor notch on the shaft should line up with the mark on the timing mark on the distributor body (See picture. Also note, points about to open when shaft rotates clockwise - firing point!).
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) Dz046.JPG (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/naj/20076611127_Dz046.JPG)
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Do the business and reinstall at the same spot. Now, get out the strobe and fine tune....
naj
68 280SL
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Naj,
You're basically doing it the same way I do i.e rotating the cam without having to turn the engine over. I just dont't pull the distributor out although I have in the past done it that way once or twice. This beats the heck out of trying to do it with a remote starter, helper, or big wrench on the front crank and you can be absolutely sure you get it dead on the cam high point when you do it this way.
George Des
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Just my 2 cents:
I always did my first setup on new points by setting the gap with feeler guage, then cranking the engine with the dist. cap off (and protected from possible arcing) to get a reading on the dwell. Then I adjust the gap to get it closer to 39 degrees, then replace the cap and start the car to get a good reading, then adjust as necessary. Usually meant only having to r&r the cap once for adjusting.
But I also used to set the gap on my '67 VW with a matchbook cover (a very handy and inexpensive feeler guage) and the timing by ear, so what do I know.
g
'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon
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Thanks again folks. I am starting to think that knowing how to use a strobe light is part and parcel of getting the points done quickly and easily...
And Naj -- I borrowed your pic for this:
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) Dz046.jpg (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/J.%20Huber/200766115629_Dz046.jpg)
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PS does arcing mean I run a risk of being toasted. Final request -- bury me in my Guzzi...
James
63 230SL
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I like to set the dwell around 40 degrees. The points are closed a bit more but if you have any real wear inside of the distrbutor this will help to keep the points from bouncing at higher RPM's.
Dan Caron's
SL Barn
benzbarn@ebtech.net
slbarn.mbz.org
1 877 661 6061
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James,
You can't lose by buying the best strobe light you can afford. I am sure a really experienced mechanic can set the timing by feel, but for us mortals there is no way to get it right without the strobe. It also will let you learn something about the health of your advance mechanism by telling you when and how much advance you get. I would start by cleaning and painting the timing marks on the harmonic balancer, that will let you see what is going on much better, as you have a tough angle to shoot the light and see the marks.
Best,
g
'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon
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James,
Look at the two 'pips' below the adjusting screw in the picture. There should also be a 'cut out' in the base plate of the points.
You can use a flat bladed screw driver between the pips and the slot to make minute adjustments to the points gap with the screw slightly loosened.
Download Attachment: (http://images/icon_paperclip.gif) Dz0461.JPG (http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/naj/200766181349_Dz0461.JPG)
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quote:
Thanks again folks. I am starting to think that knowing how to use a strobe light is part and parcel of getting the points done quickly and easily...
Any time you tinker with points is going to change the timing, so a strobe is worth having. You can also check the centrifugal and vacuum systems as stated by enochbell.
naj
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Greg,
You say that one should get the "best strobe light you can afford"... are there differences between strobe lights? (besides durability)
Is there one you'd recommend?
WAQAS in Austin, Texas
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I am not an expert, but I have a Sun light that is superb, and I have had it for 25 years. They have probably made a few improvements since then :) but I just remember that there were cheaper ones that were not nearly as bright (I found that out the hard way by buying a cheap one and returning it) so that is why I offered the comment. Perhaps there is a more current opinion from the board?
Best,
g
'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon
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The method George Des describes is my method, by far the quickest and most accurate.
To simplify, the "gap" is only created to provide the correct dwell, which is vital. So the gap setting is a rough approximation given so that folk without a dwell meter can set things up pretty accurately.
The thing is that the points gap generally closes up over time, through wear on the plastic block/heel and through the transfer of material from one side of the points to the other.
The result is that your dwell gets bigger, your spark is possibly not as good in theory and your timing retards.
However Dan makes the point that a smaller gap/bigger dwell will make a worn dizzie perform better, and he would know, but the scret here would be of course to still have correct timing !
Also when you set these things and tighten, the start the motor and recheck..........things will always have shifted. Each car is slightly different so playing around with things can make a small but worthwhile difference.................or none at all !! :oops:
Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.
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Hey Naj,
Is that a 230sl distributor?
I am confused as the points and vacuum unit on my 250 were pointed the other way.
Are they different on a 230sl?
Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto
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Hi, Bob,
Yes, Its an '046' Vacuum Advance from the 230 SL. Yours is probly an '051' ?
naj
68 280SL
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quote:
Originally posted by naj
Hi, Bob,
Yes, Its an '046' Vacuum Advance from the 230 SL. Yours is probly an '051' ?
naj
68 280SL
Hey Naj,
Thanks mate.
Yes it is the '051' now with a Pertronix in and working just great.
No need for all this adjustemnt.
Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto
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Ok. A few more questions for you all (regarding lesson #2 -- Timing 101.)
I am seeing a decent looking advance timing gun at Sears -- Equus 5568? Would this strike you as a good entry leveler?
Also, once underway, am I right that there should be some marks to get to TDC already on my car somewhere. Where abouts are these?
Can somebody explain the vacuum connection to me? Is it that small white tube?
And with the VJUR distributor, I am looking for 30 BTDC at 3000 RPM right?
Again I apologize for boring many of you here -- but its new to me and kind of exciting. Maybe others are learning too!
James
63 230SL
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James,
quote:
Also, once underway, am I right that there should be some marks to get to TDC already on my car somewhere. Where abouts are these?
Yes, they're on the crank damper:
(http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/naj/20076975226_dz101.JPG)
quote:
Can somebody explain the vacuum connection to me? Is it that small white tube?
Yes.
Easier to disconnect from the throttle body end.
quote:
And with the VJUR distributor, I am looking for 30 BTDC at 3000 RPM right?
Yes.
With vacuum line disconnected.
quote:
Again I apologize for boring many of you here -- but its new to me and kind of exciting. Maybe others are learning too!
:oops: The reason why this site is 'here' :oops:
naj
68 280SL
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James,
What you want is a timing light with a xenon bulb. This will give you the bright strobe that you need to see the timing mark. I've seen several others out there that do not have this bulb and are almost useless because they simply do not put out enough light. If you are not in the car repair business or doing tune-ups everyday, you don't need to strain yourself financially on the timing light. I have a fairly expensive one, but I've only had to use it a few times. Good,useable ones with the xenon light are available at fair prices.
George Des
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It's easy to see the timing marks on the crankshaft damper when you are laying under the front of the car & look up. You may have to clean the surface first for the marks to show up. I have taken a small paint brush and using white paint, marked the "zero" and the "30º". It's easier to see that way. You can mark it while under the car.
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Again great stuff guys. Thanks.
I will look from the bottom -- I am able to see the 0/0 1/0 2/0 etc from the top but it is not marked and nowhere as colorful as Naj's. I should probably do as The Engineer suggests and paint it. Now the questions:
1. Is it TDC precisely when the pointer thing is on 0/0? I notice the rotor points to the tiny notch in the distributor at about same point. Is that all correct?
2. I also notice that unlike the picture in my manual -- my dizzy doesn't have that radius-dial thing at the bottom. Should it? And how is the dizzy loosened up to move around?
3. Back to points for a second. If I want to remove them, can anyone provide a quick spoonfeeding on this?
I figure I have until Father's Day to get knowlegdable on this timing stuff -- then I can unwrap and go do some triggerin' ;)
James
63 230SL
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James,
It is useful to understand the alignment of events: the mark on the harmonic balancer points to "0" as the distributor rotor point to the notch on the distributor body as the notch on the cam sprocket lines up at 12:00 with its mark on the cam tower. You now know how to get TDC #1 cylinder and also check for timing chain wear. More than one of us has gone 180 degrees off when fooling with the distributor, but now you know how to avoid that mistake.
Best,
g
'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon
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quote:
Originally posted by J. Huber
Again great stuff guys. Thanks.
I will look from the bottom -- I am able to see the 0/0 1/0 2/0 etc from the top but it is not marked and nowhere as colorful as Naj's. I should probably do as The Engineer suggests and paint it. Now the questions:
1. Is it TDC precisely when the pointer thing is on 0/0? I notice the rotor points to the tiny notch in the distributor at about same point. Is that all correct?
2. I also notice that unlike the picture in my manual -- my dizzy doesn't have that radius-dial thing at the bottom. Should it? And how is the dizzy loosened up to move around?
3. Back to points for a second. If I want to remove them, can anyone provide a quick spoonfeeding on this?
I figure I have until Father's Day to get knowlegdable on this timing stuff -- then I can unwrap and go do some triggerin' ;)
James
63 230SL
Hey James,
Something else you need to know...
ATDC is the numbers on the oil *bath air* filter side of the 0/0 on the damper.
and
BTDC is the numbers on the battery side of 0/0 on the damper.
Doing the timing, I cover the window in my garage and turn the light off during the day and have no problems seeing the marks.
The dizzy has a securing 5mm (I think) hex head bolt down on the RHS near the engine.
* sorry, did not mean to mislead anyone, just forgot to add those words.
Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto
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Is this a upside-down thing about Austrailia?
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quote:
Originally posted by glennard
Is this a upside-down thing about Austrailia?
I sure hope so....
To be clear -- facing forward and looking down on a LHD, the numbers to the left of 0/0 are BTDC.
And Naj or others -- did you paint the pointer as well? will this help.
James
63 230SL
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James,
quote:
To be clear -- facing forward and looking down on a LHD, the numbers to the left of 0/0 are BTDC.
Yes.
The red line in my picture is @ 30 Btdc.
quote:
And Naj or others -- did you paint the pointer as well? will this help.
Yes and Yes (IMHO).
quote:
1. Is it TDC precisely when the pointer thing is on 0/0? I notice the rotor points to the tiny notch in the distributor at about same point. Is that all correct?
2. I also notice that unlike the picture in my manual -- my dizzy doesn't have that radius-dial thing at the bottom. Should it? And how is the dizzy loosened up to move around?
3. Back to points for a second. If I want to remove them, can anyone provide a quick spoonfeeding on this?
I figure I have until Father's Day to get knowlegdable on this timing stuff -- then I can unwrap and go do some triggerin'
1. Yes, 0/0 is TDC.
2. Its not important to have the radius dial thingy. Yours may have gone missing but later ones did not have one.
3. To remove, loosen the two outside nuts and pull out the open ended terminal, and remove moving contact from fulcrum pin. Then replace base contact. Replace new terminal in the same place. Be careful not to ground this wire or the retaining bolt to the body (note position of insulating fiber washers!!).
naj
68 280SL
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Thanks Naj. I just had fun. Decided, before I mark things, to clean up some of the sludge on the front of the engine. Yikes. But now I can see the distributor loosening nut and generally most of what these parts should look like! But the wife won't let me in the house...
PS just marked everything -- thanks again. Be back when its time for timin'
James
63 230SL
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quote:
Hey James,
Something else you need to know...
ATDC is the numbers on the oil filter side of the 0/0 on the damper.
and
BTDC is the numbers on the battery side of 0/0 on the damper.
???
The oil filter and the battery are on the same side ??
Do you have a pulley with a double row of number ??
The 230SL has only one set, like Naj's picture, or am I misunderstanding things ??
Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.
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Hey Ben. I took this to mean that maybe on RHD's the battery and oil filter are on opposite sides? Not sure. I do know that on LHDs the battery and oil filter are on the same side...
Now as for numbers: I believe Bob means that on the pulley there are marks on the BTDC side ie 0/10 0/20 0/30 etc. But there are also a few lines on the ATDC side...
Maybe Bob can confirm.
James
63 230SL
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I repeat 10 june 07- Down under thing? Engine rotates CW up north, down south ???? Standing in front of the car, looking down between the radiator and block, my engine rotates CW. Rotate the engine CW to TDC. BTDC marks are to the right i.e. TDC, 10, then 20, then 30. ATDC are to the left, i.e. TDC, then 10, then 20, then 30.
If I take the car below the Equator, does this change? Please advise ASAP. Does it reverse the firing order? -to 426351?
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:D
quote:
Hey Ben. I took this to mean that maybe on RHD's the battery and oil filter are on opposite sides? Not sure. I do know that on LHDs the battery and oil filter are on the same side...
Now as for numbers: I believe Bob means that on the pulley there are marks on the BTDC side ie 0/10 0/20 0/30 etc. But there are also a few lines on the ATDC side...
Maybe Bob can confirm.
James, everything is in the same place save for the servo/master cyl and the wiper motor !
I understand what Bob meant now ....ta !! :)
Regards,
Ben in Ireland.
'64 230SL 4sp.
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So, where do I aim this thing?
Hey all. So the points have been adjusted and its time to check the timing. Through the help here, I have clearly marked the 30 BTDC on the pulley. I now have in my midst a timing light (thanks kids). Anyone have a technique they want to share?
A related question: I have finally honed in on what isn't quite right when I am driving. Acceleration is very good off the line, through the gears and at higher RPM (3000+) the car just purrs. However, I have what I'd call a "flat-spot" at about 2200 RPM in 2nd and 3rd. For a split second, I feel this lull right there then the power kicks in. A timing thing? Thanks as always...
James
63 230SL
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quote:
Originally posted by glennard
I repeat 10 june 07- Down under thing? Engine rotates CW up north, down south ???? Standing in front of the car, looking down between the radiator and block, my engine rotates CW. Rotate the engine CW to TDC. BTDC marks are to the right i.e. TDC, 10, then 20, then 30. ATDC are to the left, i.e. TDC, then 10, then 20, then 30.
If I take the car below the Equator, does this change? Please advise ASAP. Does it reverse the firing order? -to 426351?
Glenn,
I went back and corrected my post by adding 2 words I had not added.
The oil filter I referred to was in fact the oil bath air filter which is in the same position as the paper element air filter of the USA cars.
Bob Smith (Brisbane,Australia)
RHD,1967 early 250 SL, auto
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Hello, James,
quote:
So, where do I aim this thing?
My way:
Warm up engine.
Hook up timing light as per instructions.
Disconnect vacuum line.
Start engine and aim light at the static mark above the crank pulley (mind the fan).
Have a look at what markings you see on the crank pulley.
Rev up engine to 3000 rpm and see how close you are to the 30 degree mark (to the right of 0/0). Looking from the front, if the mark is to the right of the static pointer, you need to advance and vice versa...
Slightly loosen the distributor clamp so you can turn the distributor (Not too loose or the distributor will rise up and disconnect from its drive). CW to retard and CCW to advance. Set timing at 30 degrees and tighten up the clamp. Recheck setting. Also note setting at idle speed, and as you rev up it should advance to the max 30 degrees.
Reconnect vacuum line and take readings again.
Switch off engine and disconnect light.
Compare with 'book' values.
Test drive.
Notice any difference?
Bit summarised but you get the idea... :D
naj
68 280SL
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Thanks Naj. I understand everything up to warm up engine...just kidding.
The part I want to be sure of is -- at the point I turn the distributor -- is the car still running? and with revs at 3000?
Thanks in "advance" -- yuk yuk...
James
63 230SL
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James,
Yes, you adjust the dist. with the car running. Just keep enough tension with the retaining bolt so that it will move by hand but stay where you put it.
And please be very careful reaching over the battery to shoot the light down at the marks. Between the wires for the dwell/tach meter and the cables for the timing light and the spinning fan and your attention focused on the marks...well, you get the picture. Be careful.
Best,
g
'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon
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Thanks Greg. Good advice. I'll be reporting back before long...
Ok. I am back. A little bit of an adventure... First off, had a set-back when I realized my dinky tach/dwell meter only goes up to 1600 or something. Since I am alone on this -- had to have a better tach gauge. Got a digital one that goes to 10K.
Then I went for it. After realizing how much is too much to loosen the distributer, I got things kind of close. Before I started moving stuff the 3000 reading was over 40. Moved the dis. while lossening the nut -- then car wouldn't start -- was able to get it back to starting up. Here is what I finally got to with 3000 at 30 (vacuum disconnected):
at Idle (no vac) -- about 1 or 2 (barely off the 0/0 mark). No change with vacuum. Book says I need 4 to 7.
at 1500 (no vac) -- about 1. With vac -- 16. Book says thats good.
at 3000 (no vac) -- 30. With vac -- 30 but a little less steady.
at 4500 (no huevos). Too loud and fast -- I bailed out! But it appeared to stay very close to 30.
Any opinions?
And I ended up poking the timing light down between the upper radiator hose and the fuel injection lines. Securely in there, it freed up a hand and shined steadily on the pointer.
James
63 230SL
-
quote:
at 3000 (no vac) -- 30. With vac -- 30 but a little less steady.
Test drive results :?:
naj
68 280SL
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Sorry Naj, was too busy drivin' to put that part in!
Well, I am very pleased. The slight exhaust rumble when coasting downhill has all but disappeared. The car accelerated just fine -- better than yesterday! If I were a betting man I'd say I passed my first test! I am curious to see if my MPG improves -- it had dropped to between 12-14 of late.
Is there anything in my numbers that are grounds for concern?
James
63 230SL
-
Hello, James
quote:
If I were a betting man I'd say I passed my first test!
Good result ;)
naj
68 280SL
-
I was curious to see the effects of the new timing on a cold engine. Very smooth.
Now, I really want to thank everyone for their input on this. I realize its basic stuff for many of you -- but it feels good to know how it all works. I am sort of the impatient type when it comes to my car -- and having to wait weeks for the mechanic to do this kind of stuff drives me nuts. To be able to ask a quick question and get a good answer -- sometimes within in minutes -- is so incredible. Again, my gratitude goes out to you guys.
So, what are these Valve Thingies all about... ;)
James
63 230SL
-
James,
quote:
So, what are these Valve Thingies all about..
Now, here's a good excuse to be at Blacklick...
naj
68 280SL
-
so, I need to set the timing on my 66 230 sl. I found the proper settings for my distro number in the tech data book.
according to the tech data book, i am supposed to leave the vacuum hooked up but disconnect the vacuum arm in the distro. then the tim ing at idle should be 2 +/- 2 deg atdc.
now, un-hooking the arm I am guessing is a pain, so my friend suggested disconnecting the vacuum line from where it connects to the throttle body THEN plug the connection in the throttle body and check the timing.
If the connection at the throttle body is open then the idle will be high and timing may be off.
thoughts?
Matt
Austin Tx
66 230 sl - "white"
78 300 D - Blue
98 C230