Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Research & Development => Topic started by: thelews on December 16, 2007, 13:05:05
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Over in 190 SL land, there has been experience with upgrading headlights from the stock sealed beam candles to halogen H4s and having to deal with their additional wattage and load on the system. Two issues are at play, removing the high current load from the expensive original headlight switch and providing strong current to the headlights. I found that my 250 SL has Cibie halogen H4s and wanted to remove the load from the switch. The wiring harness is excellent so running power through the loom is not an issue for me.
So, here's the installation, no new holes and reversible. Relay is a simple 12V 30 amp normal open relay found at auto stores, Radio Shack or Ebay. 12g green wire for connections, 10g black for ground. All connections soldered and shrink wrapped. Connection to switched power wire at dimmer from headlight switch made with screw and nut through eyehole connectors and then shrink wrapped. Convenient access to the headlight switch directly was next to impossible so I took the switch power at the foot dimmer. Main power came from the top of the number 1 fuse, works even if the fuse blows from the map light or something else. Relay mounted piggy back to the flasher bracket. Ground on the fender mounted wire harness bracket. Worked out well. If someone wants more direct power to the headlights, then you need as direct as possible wiring from the battery to terminal 30 and again from terminal 87 to the headlight.
Warning: While the installation is not particularly difficult, it is an unpleasant area to work in (under the dash, on your back or side) and peeling back the black underlayment can be difficult depending on its condition. It needs to be glued back when finished.
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John Lewenauer
1967 Early 250 SL Red/Caviar, Manual
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I have been running the h-4's with 100/55 watt bulbs for 4 years now through the stock system. Never a single issue. Those bulbs are brighter than any regular new car. For $80.00 this is the best safety improvement I have made. I drive quite a bit at night and have gone long distances. Never any heat or indications of to much amperage.
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quote:
Originally posted by graphic66
I have been running the h-4's with 100/55 watt bulbs for 4 years now through the stock system. Never a single issue. Those bulbs are brighter than any regular new car. For $80.00 this is the best safety improvement I have made. I drive quite a bit at night and have gone long distances. Never any heat or indications of to much amperage.
It could well be overkill. It isn't so much too much amperage over the wires and heat, as failure of the contacts in the switch. I'd just hate to have to remove and replace the switch. Call it insurance, you hope you never really need it.
John
1967 Early 250 SL Red/Caviar, Manual
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My 230 Sl's right blinker was shorting out and my light switch became dismounted so I had a new switch installed and a new relay but after driving once or twice the blinker stopped blinking it stays lit..
Any recommendations on what the exact parts should be used for a new head light switch and relays?
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Hey Surferdude (sorry, just rolled off the tongue)...
Before going too far -- are you certain your grounds at taillights, etc are tight. Often time when they are loose or corroded the blinkers will do interesting things.
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James,
Thanks. Already had a new headlight switch installed and a relay but may need a "flasher" according to a post. I will check to see if the tail lights are tight and see if that helps.
Cheers,
Matt
quote:
Originally posted by J. Huber
Hey Surferdude (sorry, just rolled off the tongue)...
Before going too far -- are you certain your grounds at taillights, etc are tight. Often time when they are loose or corroded the blinkers will do interesting things.
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Have a look at this topic if you are interested in having the relay also control the flash to pass function on the wiper stalk. Hope the link works, if not let me know.
http://sl113.com/forums/index.php?topic=3711