Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: awolff280sl on August 17, 2008, 15:00:57
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Checking the clutch slave on my 280SL I see a spring that seems kind of "sketch" in that one end of the spring is hooked on the hose coupling. Is this right? The other end of the spring is hooked through a hole in the clutch fork. According to parts suppliers, only the earlier clutch slave for a 230-250SL uses a spring. My clutch slave appears to be the later one. Do I remove the spring? Why is there a hole in the clutch fork for at least one end of a spring? Why do I keep having so many questions?
(http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/AWOLFF280SL/2008817165630_clutch%20slave.jpg)
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quote:
Originally posted by AWOLFF280SL
Checking the clutch slave on my 280SL I see a spring that seems kind of "sketch" in that one end of the spring is hooked on the hose coupling. Is this right? The other end of the spring is hooked through a hole in the linkage. According to parts suppliers, only the earlier clutch slave for a 230-250SL uses a spring. My clutch slave appears to be the later one. Do I remove the spring? Why is there a hole in the linkage for at least one end of a spring? Why do I keep having so many questions?
(http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/AWOLFF280SL/2008817165630_clutch%20slave.jpg)
I believe that is neither the correct way to set up the spring, nor the correct spring, which is why your is the way it is.
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3091/2761643094_150dfe47ca_b.jpg)
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John, I believe that your picture shows the "early" 230-250sl clutch slave with spring.
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quote:
Originally posted by AWOLFF280SL
John, I believe that your picture shows the "early" 230-250sl clutch slave with spring.
Yes, but there's no way, in my opinion, that yours is correct.
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I agree, and as soon as a kind member points out the correct way to set it up, that's what I'll do.
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Here's my take on it:
Earlier cars have a clutch pressure plate with three adjustable fingers on it and the release bearing is held a few mm away from the fingers (by the spring pulling the fork away). Also note that the push rod on the slave cylinder is threaded to adjust free play.
280s have a diaphragm spring clutch and the release bearing always rides against the spring. The fork is pushed back by the pressure of the diaphragm spring. This makes the clutch self adjusting. Hence no spring and no adjuster on the slave cylinder. The fork still has a hole in it b/c the same part is carried forward until the design was completely changed to use a different fork and release bearing.
naj
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Naj, thank you kind sir!
If I understand correctly, if my clutch is operating correctly (and this remains to be seen), this "external" spring is not needed (but not necessarily harmful) because this clutch should have an "internal" spring that works. Correct?
Can you tell me, without me having to drive the car, how I can test that the clutch is operating correctly once I remove that external spring? Thanks.
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Clutch pedal feel will probably tell you if its working.
We did have another post here recently where the car had been standing for a while and the clutch plate was stuck to the flywheel or pressure plate. A short drive soon released it.
Corrosion in the master/slave cyls can be an issue too.
naj