Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => General Discussion => Topic started by: JamesL on October 06, 2008, 08:23:33
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car just failed it's MOT.
Rust close to a rear suspension mount. More expense.
Still, I seem to have dodged the known bullet of the rust around the right side front shock turret... On the to do list for next year.
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Assume "MOT" is some kind of vehicle inspection??? and rust in the wrong place can lead to failure?
Richard M, NYC
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Yep - Annual roadworthiness
and rust within a certain distance of a structural point is a failure, as is all manner of other little things (like lights out of alignment). I fail on the expensive stuff. Fortunately, they can't fail me on emissions as they don't test on the old car!
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MOT = Ministry Of Transport
In Holland we also have a roadworthiness test, now bi-annually for older cars, that looks primarily to safety issues. A good thing, and effective in removing all manner of old barrels off the roads.
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quote:
Originally posted by cees klumper
...and effective in removing all manner of old barrels off the roads.
Except for yours, that is ;)
Peter
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Left rear chassis section and floor pan. They've been cut and cleaned up but I am at the point of wondering whether I am better putting in whole new bits rather than cutting in sheet metal...
(http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/Tosh/200810103550_chassissection.jpg")
(http://www.sl113.org/forums/uploaded/Tosh/2008101035531_floorpan.jpg")
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it's a pending job for mine, new rear chassis legs and floors and carpets. Guess how much......
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Tosh,
Have a look at K&k Mfg. panels.
They make a nice patch panel for that first pic.
Maybe a complete floor panel for the second pic?
naj
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Thanks naj
Derrick We4lls have the car at the moment and they have gotten me into this mess!
I am in discussion at the moment about the relative cost of new vs cutting in. Any opinions on here?
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Heres my two pence.
For most panels i think its easier to remove the whole panel along the seams and weld a new one in its place. You dont need to muck about with grinding an exact fit for the piece you're welding in.
Floor pans are relatively straight forward. The rear chassis member is a bit of a pain though. Why dont you just get a quote and go for the the complete pan if the cost is not substanually higher. At least you will have a completely new panel with no rust on it.
Kay
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well, well, well
That time of the year again and another failed test....
This time on 4 items. 3 on "consumables" - one of which i missed. A sidelight bulb not working. Rear tires are low on tread and on the offside front I have too much lateral play in part of the suspension. Which suggest a worn bush or similar
The other issue is more challenging. Too much rust (that word again) around the brake servo mounting/inner arch. So perhaps last years dodged bullet is coming closer.
Cash-flow being not what it was, I will get these fixed to pass rather than do my desired strip down and repair/repaint at the front end...
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well, well, well
The other issue is more challenging. Too much rust (that word again) around the brake servo mounting/inner arch. So perhaps last years dodged bullet is coming closer.
Cash-flow being not what it was, I will get these fixed to pass rather than do my desired strip down and repair/repaint at the front end...
Tosh,
Rust around the brake servo is usually caused by leaking brake fluid, so check for that.
It should clean up well without too much expense...
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So much of this depends on the extent to which something is rusted. Rusty stuff is fairly easy to remove compared to solid metal.
I would spot repair only if it was rusty in a certain smaller area. If the whole floor pan is rusty then it should be replaced as one piece. If a small area is rusty, then I would make a small patch and repair it that way. If the front section of a floor pan was rusty but the back was good, I might cut out all the rusty stuff and then cut the new pan in two using only the pieces that I need. It's kind of a 50% rule that I look at and as long as it will be a good repair when done, I'm OK with it.
In the case of the area that ties into the side member at the back end ( in front of the rear wheel ) I would make all of that by hand. You can buy a patch panel for that area but again, I would only use what's needed rather than cut everything out.
In the case of the side members or sills, if they're only a bit rusty front and rear but not really into the jack ports, I would spot repair those areas. If the whole bottom of the sill is rusted away front to back, then it's a matter of a lot of work. Don't let anyone fool you into thinking it's an easy job - it's not....
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Alas, I also failed the darn test last year on the rust issue.
I think the test centre was a little harsh so I will take it to a different test station next time......
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yes, a sympathetic station always helps
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Mmm
Not a suspension bush but a trunion. So more expensive than planned.
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woo hoo!!
Car in for a pre-European event service and while there I had them put it in for the MOT (a month early)
And we passed first time (for the first time in 3 years!)
Still need to address that rust in my front end though!
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Congratulations. It's a good feeling.