Pagoda SL Group
W113 Pagoda SL Group => Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes => Topic started by: BaronYoungman on October 09, 2008, 15:25:26
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My throttle rod is very worn at both brackets I have ALOT of play in it, both back and forth and up and down. I think this is part of my running/idleing problem. I purchased 2 new bushings, but even after disconnecting the two linkage bars the rod will not slip out. Am I missing something? it is like it is stuck in the far passenger side end. Also once I get it out how do I replace the bushings, are they snap on or do I need to go to a shop and have them pressed on?
Thanks, Bob
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You just press it out, through the little circlip that holds it in place; it won't seem obvious but it works. I struggled until I realized it just needs a push. Helps to grease it first. This should definitely help you finetune the engine. Little things like this do have an impact.
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The RT side is held on by an E clip and is very easy to replace. This one simple repair will give you much better throttle adjustments and IP to air control housing fine tunning. Any play in all the parts of the throttle linkage makes this nearly inpossible to get right. If it's wrong the engine will stubble right off idle as it goes rich or lean.
The LT side is a lot more work to change. You will need to remove the arm that's on the end of the rod. This arm move the linkage that goes to the IP. There's a small roll pin that holds the arm in place. Knock this out with a small punch while noting the position of the arm for assembly.
Once you have the arm off slide the bushing with the aluminium bracket off of the rod. The bushing will push out of the bracket with some force. Push it out and then push the new one in. Slide the bushing down the rod to roughly the same place as before and replace the arm on the end of the rod.
Note: sometimes the bushing won't fit over the rod due to rust or burrs on the surface of the rod. You might have to sand the rod or file off any burrs. DON'T make the hole in the bushing any bigger because it will tend to be too loose on the shaft due to normal wear in that area.
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Somewhere here Cees has some really good instructions (with pictures!) of how to replace the bushings. I followed them to a tee and was very successful. This, along with new ball sockets and the correct measurements, made a world of difference.
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Originally posted by J. Huber
Somewhere here Cees has some really good instructions (with pictures!) of how to replace the bushings.
http://sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=898