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Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Easy FIP timing test
« Last post by sens on Today at 09:50:29 »Thanks Joe!
Have a good day!
Halvor
Have a good day!
Halvor
News:
Become a Full Member and get the official Linkage Tour and the official Starting Aid. This information alone will pay for your membership
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General Discussion / Re: Reversing Sensors
« Last post by MP on Today at 08:36:57 »I assume you have disconnected the sensors on your Tesla. 🤭
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General Discussion / Re: Reversing Sensors
« Last post by MP on Today at 08:05:12 »I would be surprised if anyone has a long enough neck to see the rear of their car !
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Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: rebuilding 4 speed manual gearbox (floor shift)
« Last post by ja17 on Today at 05:36:38 »These pictures show the critical engagement of the slotted washer and the upper shaft key. It is critical that these parts remain engaged during final assembly. I temporarily use a hose clamp to hold everything engaged during final assembly.....
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Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: rebuilding 4 speed manual gearbox (floor shift)
« Last post by ja17 on Today at 05:32:45 »These two pictures show some typical damage to the two shaft keys. I have placed two new keys beside the damaged shaft keys in the one picture.........
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Drive train, fuel, suspension, steering & brakes / Re: Easy FIP timing test
« Last post by ja17 on Today at 05:11:33 »Very impressive procedure Halvor! Yes I think it should work!
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General Discussion / Re: Reversing Sensors
« Last post by Cees Klumper on Today at 04:51:29 »Mine does, it's called "Boem is ho" in Dutch or, looseley translated, "Bang means stop" 
https://youtube.com/shorts/cl9xhBieruk?si=2OVk14LYCvneTH4A
https://youtube.com/shorts/cl9xhBieruk?si=2OVk14LYCvneTH4A
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W11x chassis cars / Re: Mercedes Benz 220SE m127 engine for sale
« Last post by Hamid Turbo on Today at 04:31:36 »Hi,
I will send you some photos tomorrow morning.
Thanks
I will send you some photos tomorrow morning.
Thanks
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General Discussion / Re: Reversing Sensors
« Last post by AdelaidePagoda on Today at 04:23:45 »No, nor should anyone, unless they have a medical certificate that confirms they have a fused spine and are unable to actually move their neck to look behind them.
I believe this has been raised before and anyone found with them, has their SL113 membership immediately revoked and a permanent lifetime ban enforced.
😂
I believe this has been raised before and anyone found with them, has their SL113 membership immediately revoked and a permanent lifetime ban enforced.
😂
10
Commercial Advertising / Re: Pagoda Urethane Bushings in Stock
« Last post by wwheeler on Today at 03:39:50 »I have had a few people ask me recently why urethane (PU) is different from rubber in both material and in the application of suspension bushings. Below is what i responded and hopefully takes out some of the mystery:
With PU, comparing Shore A hardness really doesn’t tell you much. You can have a 80 shore A PU and a 80 shore A rubber piece and you would say the PU is harder or stiffer. It is but that is the difference in modulus you feel, not the hardness because that is the same.
Basically the PU will not flex like the rubber part. That can be good and not so good depending on how you use it. As an isolation buffer, PU would be bad. But if you are trying to reduce flex and deformation, PU is good. Consider the sway bar and its bushings. With rubber, the frame bushings grip the bar and the rubber flexes internally as the bar rotates slightly. As it deforms, the rubber also will cause some movement in the bar resulting in a changed suspension geometry. The end link bushings stretch and compress as needed. With urethane, the modulus is so high that the bar actually rotates in the bushing like a bearing. The bushing doesn’t deflect and provides much better geometry than rubber when corning. The PU end link bushings also stretch and compress but do so at much lower rate, again because of the modulus. The other suspension bushings act in a similar fashion but are unique to their application.
You also asked about the “grease” and this a VERY important point. I supply bushing lube as it is called, with every part. Because the PU bushing acts as a bearing, it needs lubrication. Without it could groan or squeak. No different than other types of bearings or bushings. The lube I supply is extremely tacky and will not rub or wash off. It is a silicon based lube and resistant to water. Another very important point is that is it silicon based and NOT mineral oil based. Mineral oil based greases like for wheel bearings and the like with slowly degrade this urethane. And why I supply it with the parts. It has to be the correct lube for the PU bushings to work as designed.
You do not have to go all in on PU bushings. You can pick and choose by application and leave the others stock rubber. I would certainly start with the PU sway bar bushings and is a no brainer in my opinion.
With PU, comparing Shore A hardness really doesn’t tell you much. You can have a 80 shore A PU and a 80 shore A rubber piece and you would say the PU is harder or stiffer. It is but that is the difference in modulus you feel, not the hardness because that is the same.
Basically the PU will not flex like the rubber part. That can be good and not so good depending on how you use it. As an isolation buffer, PU would be bad. But if you are trying to reduce flex and deformation, PU is good. Consider the sway bar and its bushings. With rubber, the frame bushings grip the bar and the rubber flexes internally as the bar rotates slightly. As it deforms, the rubber also will cause some movement in the bar resulting in a changed suspension geometry. The end link bushings stretch and compress as needed. With urethane, the modulus is so high that the bar actually rotates in the bushing like a bearing. The bushing doesn’t deflect and provides much better geometry than rubber when corning. The PU end link bushings also stretch and compress but do so at much lower rate, again because of the modulus. The other suspension bushings act in a similar fashion but are unique to their application.
You also asked about the “grease” and this a VERY important point. I supply bushing lube as it is called, with every part. Because the PU bushing acts as a bearing, it needs lubrication. Without it could groan or squeak. No different than other types of bearings or bushings. The lube I supply is extremely tacky and will not rub or wash off. It is a silicon based lube and resistant to water. Another very important point is that is it silicon based and NOT mineral oil based. Mineral oil based greases like for wheel bearings and the like with slowly degrade this urethane. And why I supply it with the parts. It has to be the correct lube for the PU bushings to work as designed.
You do not have to go all in on PU bushings. You can pick and choose by application and leave the others stock rubber. I would certainly start with the PU sway bar bushings and is a no brainer in my opinion.