OIL FILTER WASHERS

[71 pagoda]

I am in the middle of doing my first oil change. Im trying to change the 2 washers that are in the inside of the filter housing. I cant remove the old ones. Are they pressed fit or am I missing something simple
Thanks
Larry

[George Davis]

Larry,

do you mean rubber washers or metal?  I don't recall any metal washers in there, although there might be a metal boss in the bottom of the cannister to center the filter element.

George Davis
'69 280 SL Euro manual

[71 pagoda]

It looks like there is a large  !/2 dollar size rubber , a metal  and then a small rubber in between.  It looks like they been tried to be removed before

[George Davis]

It should be like this in the bottom of the cannister: 1 round rubber seal, about the size of a half-dollar outside diameter, maybe 3/8 inch wide, with a half-round profile.  Sits in a groove in the bottom of the cannister.  Metal inside this seal is part of the cannister, not a separate piece.  This seal normally doesn't require replacement, and is not in the filter kit.  Use a sharp, stiff pin to dig it out if you have a replacement, otherwise leave it there.

Inside the bore of the bolt hole in the bottom of the cannister, there is an o-ring.  Also typically doesn't have to be replaced at each filter change.  A long, sharp pin should help you dig it out if you have a replacement; not included in the kit.  It's in a groove that runs around the outside of the bore.

Inside the filter head (the part bolted to the block) there is a very critical seal.  It goes around the boss in the middle, is about 1/2 inch wide, and looks like a piece of black garden hose.  This normally doesn't have to be replaced and is not in the kit, but you want to be very sure it's there because the oil won't get filtered if it's not.  It might be stuck in place, don't disturb it unless you have a replacement.

Hope this helps!

George Davis
'69 280 SL Euro manual

[71 pagoda]

I finally removed the metal insert which is press fit.  I replaced both washers but I bent up the metal insert a little, Managed to replace it. I cant beleive Mercedes would come up with a design like this. It seems like a lot of work for a simple oil change. I was calling  my car all sorts of names. Finally  after I put everything back together, I took her for a ride. And I fell in love all over again.

[George Davis]

Hmm, I guess I'll take a close look next time I change oil.  Maybe the design was changed?  I know what you mean about the name-calling and then falling back in love with the car.  Any DIY-er will have many such occassions!

George Davis
'69 280 SL Euro manual

[Cees Klumper]

I replaced these two seals in the bottom of the canister. The larger one is not too bad, as described by George. The other one, that is beneath the small press-fit metal cap, is harder to get at. You need to force out the metal cap and this can cause damage to it. Bottom line is: don't change it if you don't have oil leaking from the bottom of the canister when in service. It has no function in the oil filtering process, like the one in the canister housing attached to the block does, as described also by George. Definitely do yourself and your car a favor by checking whether this top 'garden hose' seal is in place. Other oil-change tips not yet mentioned in this thread: the canister itself has a large, thin round seal in the top that comes with the oil filter change kit - sometimes it is not that visible and people put the new one in on top of the old which can cause problems. Also, one of the metal washers provided in the kit is for the oil cooler drain plug. Took me several oil changes before I finally figured that one out.

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

[Naj ✝︎]

I beleive you are NOT supposed to remove the metal insert.
The donut shaped larger rubber ring at the bottom of the canister can be yanked out and new one teased in place with a bit of engine oil and perseverence. The genuine Merc seal has a very fine lip here.
It is as important to have a good seal here with the oil filter as it is at the top of the filter with the 'hose' seal.
The little 'o' ring in the bolt hole takes even more perseverence. On the 230/250 with the vertical fitting canister, I beleive it is important to have  this 'O' ring in place as it holds the bolt in the canister and saves you from burning your hand with hot oil while you remove it.

$0.02 worth??

naj

'Kloines Scheisserle'
65 230SL
68 280SL

[rwmastel]

I removed/replaced the rubber doughnut seal in the bottom of the canister on my 230SL without removing any metal parts.  I have a set of fine pointed picks of various shapes with screw driver handles.  I used the one with a 90 degree bend at the tip to get at this seal.  Installation of the new one was difficult as well, but it worked.

When I first started working with the seal, I couldn't tell the metal from the rubber because it was so old and hard.

I would say it's fine to change these seals once every 5 years?  Does that sound good to you guys?

I was not aware of a seal inside the bolt hole, but my housing does not leak at the bolt so I guess I'm fine.

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[Cees Klumper]

The "bolt hole seal" is the same one I referred to as the small seal beneath the metal cap. I could not see a way to replace mine without removing the cap, i.e. from the 'outside' of the canister rather than from the 'inside'. But maybe there is a way.

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

[Bob G ✝︎]

Joe Alexander did a wonderfull short seminar on which oil seals and rubber grommets to change during the oil filter service. I belelve some pictures were taken close up of the cartridge and which compounts to change out.

Bob Geco