Floor rust

[KUMARB]

I have taken out carpet and insulation from my 280SL for replacement. I found floor rusts on the driver side. There are four floor panels, each of them seems to have a hard surface coating, about 1/16 inch thick.

1.  The 1/16 inch floor coating is original? The coating is cracked and crumbling in places. What do I replace it with?

2.  The driver side floor is rusted near accelerator pedal. It is rusted through. Perhaps, I need a new floor panel for this?

3.  There are no floor drains. In a convertible, one would expect once in a while rain water inside. Should I drill holes in the floors to make drains? 

Your suggestions will be very much appreciated.

[paulr]

I'm finally having the whole underside / interior floor pans done on mine and having larger drain holes done. My gas pedal had also become detached. Guess it's just what happens. I am having Lizard skin soundproofing paint + boom mat insulation then more Lizard paint put on to tank the floor area then a new carpet..yippee.

It's not unusual to find rust here, my car was really once a 10 year old rusty sportscar before it became what it is now, don't worry.

[JamesL]

This sort of thing?

http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=9635.0

[johnd]

Seems like there are 2 kinds of pagodas . . . those that have had floor work, and those that will   I had thought about the lizard skin, but was concerned that at least some of those products clean up with water. . . . and therefore are, to a point, water soluble and would seem to want to hold water in.  It may be a moot point, as we are not using these liike they were when they were used cars, but it still concerned me.  I have a roll of dynamat-like insulation I got on ebay that I will probably use.  Really sticky, but hard to imagine either air or water getting in there.

John
working toward getting the '70 ready for the big flea dip . . . Hope some metal comes back out of the tank . . .

[waqas]

working toward getting the '70 ready for the big flea dip . . . Hope some metal comes back out of the tank . . .

Are you planning to keep the aluminum panels on the car? (doors, hood, trunk)
Do you think they'll be ok in the dip?

I remember reading about some kinds of acid baths that were harmful for aluminum, but I have no facts on hand. I'm just wondering if your 'bath-house' gave you any info regarding this.

[johnd]

Waquas,

VERY thoughtful comment.  I am NOT leaving them on (as a matter of fact, they are already off . . . ).  I didn't like the idea of such a reactive metal in the bath.  I have not talked to the stripper about that, but want to get the thing as easy and small (including cutting out old metal) as possible, to keep it cheap. er.  cheaper . . .  Those I can sand and strip by hand.

Thanks,
jpd

[jcf]

hi
i never restored any cabrio with out rust on the floors:)

in my workshop now we have a  De Tomaso Pantera which have been acid dipped in Norway. still is rust left in that car.and one tip is to drill some holes in the sill, and boxes so the acid get inn and OUT again.

[johnd]

Great idea!  Thanks!

[KUMARB]

Dear WAGAS:

Could you please expand on the above comment you made?  It seems you are referring to some sort of acid dip bath for the entire frame. Is that right?

Thanks,

[waqas]

It seems you are referring to some sort of acid dip bath for the entire frame. Is that right?

Yes, that is correct.  You can actually find out more about the process here (for example): http://metalrehab.com/  (click on the "Automotive" link)

[johnd]

The place I used before (and will on this project . . . they have moved and I hope they are still in the business) uses a base (alkali) to strip, instead of acid.  Probably 6 one, half dozen the other . ..