Author Topic: Dowels in crankshaft counterweight  (Read 2920 times)

Ron

  • Full Member
  • Senior
  • ***
  • USA, CA, Arroyo Grande
  • Posts: 188
Dowels in crankshaft counterweight
« on: July 01, 2009, 20:22:42 »


Folks, I'm still trying to assemble the engine for my '66 230SL.  My questions involve the counterweight, vibrational damper and pulleys.  Does anyone know where the two dowel pins shown in the parts book go?  There are two dowels listed, same number: 900007 008100.

Then there's the pin that indexes the damper to the counterweight.  Part number is 000007 008204.  Mine is sheared off with the remains in the counterweight.  Any ideas on getting that out?

I've ordered all 3 from the dealer.

Thanks in advance for any help,  Ron



1966 230SL, euro

ja17

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, OH, Blacklick
  • Posts: 7414
Re: Dowels in crankshaft counterweight
« Reply #1 on: July 03, 2009, 02:09:46 »
Hello Ron,

There  are only two dowell pins on the front of the crankshaft. There is an additional large one on the rear of the crankshaft to index the flywheel. The rear dowell is about a 10mm  diameter while the fronts are smaller, possibly 6mm diameter.  Caution even though the front dowel slots look like they are positioned 180 degrees apart, they are not. You can force everything together 180 degrees wrong.  Be certain to index the vibration dampner correctly or the dowel slots will not line up exactly. The M127 engines tended to have some issues with the connection of the vibration dampner and crankshaft coming loose and damaging the end of the crankshaft. The BBB describes an upgrade to replacing the original bolt with the new stretch bolt and spring washers to prevent problems. Engines with the added strain of AC are even more prone to this problem.

In any case make sure your vibration dampner, crankshaft , and dowell pins fit nice and tight.  You can use a little Loctite stud and bearing mount if any of these clearances are marginal.

Replacing the front crankshaft chain sprocket is aways recomended when the engine is down. These are fairly inexpensive and are the most critical sprocket.  Check the key and slot for play under this sprocket also. The points of the teeth on an old sprocket wear to a sharp point. The teeth on a new sprocket have nice squared off ends. A worn drive sprocket increases chain wear and will eventually cause the engine to be more prone to chain failure.

« Last Edit: July 03, 2009, 02:17:04 by ja17 »
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback