250 SL Throttle Linkage--Full Throttle Operation

[Atazman]

Gentlemen......

After 26 years of ownership, I recently discovered that my throttle linkage was not allowing "full-throttle" operation.  My first observation as to "cause" revealed that the Lever mounted on the support bracket (on the side of the block below the intake/exhaust manifolds) would hit the exhaust manifold as the throttle was opened.  I then discovered that the support bracket itself (it has 6 bolts and covers a water passage on the right side of the block) was positioned incorrectly.  I rotated this bracket one bolt hole in a counter clockwise direction.  I'm confident that this support bracket has been installed incorrectly since 1983 because that is when I installed my new engine.  Quite likely, the bracket was installed on the old engine incorrectly and I just positioned it on the new block with the same orientation.  The orientation of the bracket is now consistent with the picture in the Haynes Manual.

With the bracket installed correctly, I found that my linkage rods that connect to the lever were too short.  I lengthened the one that runs horizontally beside the block below the intake/exhaust manifolds by 1", and I lengthened the vertical rod by 1/2".

Let me just say that after these adjustments, the car runs incredibly strong.  The ability to go full throttle ...... where the FI pump is on the full throttle stop and the venturi throttle control lever is on the full throttle stop.......... has made the Pagoda an even more exciting car to drive.

I really doubt that a previous owner shortened the rods, and I'm puzzled as to why I had to lengthen them.  Can someone comment as to a possible explanation for what I have missed in setting up the linkage.  Perhaps something that I should have done to avoid lengthening the rods?

As usual... your advice/comments are appreciated.

[Peter van Es]

First of all, congratulations on your "new" car.

Secondly, it shows that everyone, and I mean everyone who owns a Pagoda should occasionally drive someone elses Pagoda, and let another Pagoda owner drive yours... that allows you to find out about these sort of things much sooner, and not have to suffer 26 years of sub-par performance. It's advice that Cees gave me, and is very true.

Thirdly, one visit to the Pagoda University Blacklick (PUB) would have probably fixed this. Imagine 60 eagle eyed Pagoda buffs, checking out each other's cars and critically appraising their own, and Professor ja17 would have been alerted to this and probably fixed it on the spot.

Don, finally welcome to the group of hard driving Pagoda Owners. 

Peter

[menesesjesse]

The bracket position, the kind of bracket, and lever may have caused this 1 inch issue for you.  Additionally some had headers and some had cast manifolds but I believe there is a difference in size in these setups.  I replaced my motor and it came with the aluminum cover which I had to remove in favor of my older bracket and cover with my lever style.  Confusing I know but there were several changes.  Glad to hear you got it working.

[Atazman]

Thank you....Peter and Jesse..... for the comments.  I have said it before, and I'll say it again.......... this forum has opened up the true pleasures of owning a Pagoda.  Up to the time I joined this forum, all I had was my curiosity, and my Haynes manual for guidance.  But.......the Pagoda has never been worked on by anyone other than myself for the 26 years of ownership.  It's far from perfect, but I'm heading in the right direction.

Having said that....I probably need "60 eagle eyed Pagoda buffs" to get things straightened out.  Well..... until that happens, I'll just struggle along and fix things as they become obvious.  The car is now a daily driver, and getting more attention than it has in many moons.  Yesterday was a real thrill taking it to red line in 3rd and then shifting up/down between 4th/5th.

Jesse, I'm thinking that you are correct in that I have some mis-matched components that caused my problem.  Thanks for advising me that there are different versions of levers/brackets/etc.  Without knowing exactly what other components are available, a little MIG welding and grinding seems to have been a reasonable "fix".

I appreciate the feedback!

Don

[Peter van Es]

Don,

because your location field is not filled, we don't know where in the US you are. If you are less than a days drive from Ohio, it's actually worth driving to ja17 and getting hime to spend some time working over your car. Where are you?

Peter

[Atazman]

Peter....... 

I'm on the West Coast, about 30 miles East of San Francisco.  It's a little more than a day's drive from Ohio....even at full throttle. 

I'm thinking about a cross-country trip in the Pagoda though.  Can't do it this fall, but perhaps next year to see the NE foliage change.

Thanks.....

Don

[66andBlue]

Don,
have you tried this one for help:
Granite Bay German Specialty Cars (near Folsom Lake)
Oliver Halwachs / 916-791-2949 (I hope the phone number is still the same).
He is a lot closer than OH.