Author Topic: Automatic Trans - Any Repairs When Out  (Read 5061 times)

JimVillers

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Automatic Trans - Any Repairs When Out
« on: October 22, 2009, 19:44:32 »
I have the automatic transmission out of a 230SL because the engine needs to be rebuilt.  Are there any repair or maintenance tasks that should be done as a "target of opportunity" with the transmission on the bench. 

It is not from my car so I can't say if there were issues wi5t it or not.  I read about welding up the rivits of the torque converter and I'll take a look at them for leakage.  There was enough oil underneath that I could not determine if it was transmission, power steering pump (leaking) or engine oil.
Jim Villers
190SL, 230SL 5-Speed, MGB 5-Speed, MGB GT V8 RHD (real MG), 2016 SLK

Dave Gallon

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Re: Automatic Trans - Any Repairs When Out
« Reply #1 on: October 23, 2009, 06:09:24 »
Would suggest at least replacing the radial seal at the front pump, where the shaft from the hydraulic clutch is inserted. This is a common source of leaks and requires removal of the transmission to change if it leaks in the future. It looks like the current part number is 008 997 91 46, US list $17.50, my price $12.92.
Dave Gallon
Gallon Restorations
113.044-12-001155

menesesjesse

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Re: Automatic Trans - Any Repairs When Out
« Reply #2 on: October 23, 2009, 13:31:54 »
When I had mine out I repaced all the seals by buying a rebuild kit.  I went as far to pull my valve body a off to clean it and to replace the seals on it.  Do i recommend this at home "no" but i think replacing the modulator and all the copper and aluminum washer seals would be prudent before reinstallation.   
Jesse
1966 Mercedes 230 SL auto
2003 Mercedes E500
1992 Ford F150
1994 Ford Bronco
2019 Shelby GT350R
1967 Mercury Cougar XR7

ja17

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Re: Automatic Trans - Any Repairs When Out
« Reply #3 on: October 23, 2009, 16:19:58 »
Yes, the front seal is a must. You can pressure check (with air) the torque converter to see if you have leakage around the rivets or hub.  Install a new filter and pan gasket and check the torque on the valve body bolts while the filter is out (these bolts like to loosen up over the years).

Next level of difficulty is consider replacing the Large o-ring around the front pump of the transmission (front transmission cover removal and front pump removal required), rear seal (slotted nut and flange removal required), and the ruubber modulator diaphram replacement (modulator adjustments may be needed afterward). At the very least check the rubbrer diaphram to see if it good.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

JimVillers

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Re: Automatic Trans - Any Repairs When Out
« Reply #4 on: October 23, 2009, 19:13:51 »
Thanks guys.  There is no apparent leakage so I think that I'll just do the pan, filter, check bolts and the front coupling seal.
Jim Villers
190SL, 230SL 5-Speed, MGB 5-Speed, MGB GT V8 RHD (real MG), 2016 SLK

mdsalemi

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Re: Automatic Trans - Any Repairs When Out
« Reply #5 on: October 23, 2009, 21:33:50 »
Jim,

Take this for what it is--a story.

When my engine was out 1n 1999-2001, I asked the same question.  There was no group like this, however.

In the interest of saving money, I opted to leave the transmission alone, :-\ as opposed to swapping out for a rebuilt.
After all was put back there was a transmission leak. >:(
Took it to a place here, and the mechanic comes back and says, "good news and bad news.  good news is I found the leak and it's a seal that cost $5.  bad news is labor is 8 hours to get the tranmission in and out.  OK, there goes $600 just to fix the leak.  Oops, $605.00  :)
Fixed the leak and all was well  :) for about 2 months.  Started making noise. :o
One day it just exploded. :'(  The casting of the transmission case was broken.  U-joints twisted. Drive shaft destroyed. :'(
Cost to repair: new tranmission $1,200; new drive shaft $500; labor $600.  That was in 2001.

Total savings initially: $1,000.  The cost after the fact, of my savings: $2,900.  One of the few, but large mistakes I made on the car.

I know what I learned is this: unless I personally am absolutely, positively 100% knowledgeable about the integrity of a big expensive part that cost a lot of time and effort and money to remove, and the service life remaining, it will get replaced or rebuilt before I put it back.  But hey, that's just me. ;D
Michael Salemi
Davidson, North Carolina (Charlotte Area) USA
1969 280SL (USA-Spec)
Signal Red 568G w/Black Leather (Restored)
2023 Ford Maverick Lariat Hybrid "Area 51"
2023 Ford Escape Hybrid
2024 Ford Mustang Mach Ex PEV

ja17

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Re: Automatic Trans - Any Repairs When Out
« Reply #6 on: October 27, 2009, 16:45:10 »
Hello Jim,

Make sure the torque converter is fully engaged and all the way in the front pump before installing the transmission.  Otherwise when you tighten the transmission down, you will destroy the front pump.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

JimVillers

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Re: Automatic Trans - Any Repairs When Out
« Reply #7 on: November 13, 2009, 13:21:27 »
Joe .... Thanks for the clues.  Swapping the torque converter seal was a piece of cake.  Getting the converter to fully seat took a little time, wiggling and turning.
Jim Villers
190SL, 230SL 5-Speed, MGB 5-Speed, MGB GT V8 RHD (real MG), 2016 SLK