0231 116 051 Disributor Bosch

[tel76]

I have dismantled my distributor,both to clean it up and replace two broken screws.
On removal of the vacuum unit the operating rod only moves a small amount.
As this rod is adjustable how much travel should this rod have?

[Larry & Norma]

If the timing was correct at tickover and again at 3000 rpm then the movement must be ok!

[tel76]

The dismantling of the distributor is one small part of restoration of the vehicle.

[tel76]

I have completely stripped down the above distributor,which includes removal of the drive gear,on removal of the drive the plastic shims are badly worn and will require replacement.
Would the Benz Dr inform me what he uses as a replacement and what is the correct end float for the shaft.

[Benz Dr.]

I have rebuild kits which have almost all of the parts you would need to do a rebuild. Did you mark the drive collar so it will go back on the same way as it was removed? The bottom bushing usually doesn't wear too much but the top one will. End play is correct when there's no play and the shaft turns freely. There are a number of different thicknesses of shims to find the right amount.

The advance has two parts: mechanical and vacuum. The mechanical moves about 20 degrees and the vacuum moves about 10 to give you 30 degrees total on a 051 unit. If the mechanical is under 20 degrees, or over that amount, the pull rod on the vacuum cell can be adjusted in or out to fine tune the total advance. No other adjustment is possible although the rate of advance can be adjusted by changing the tension on the springs.

The only way to get all of these things to work properly is to use a distributor tester. It will test several functions at the same time and very small adjustments are possible using this method. Using a timing light on the crank shaft  isn't acurate enough because you won't be able to see the small changes like you can with a tester.

[tel76]

Thank you Benz Dr for your reply.
Yes, i did make a note of the drive gear orientation so that it goes back correctly.
I have today checked the bushes and there is no wear, the only problem is the wear on the fibre washers that are located between the body and the drive gear.
In view of this and the fact that the spring between drive gear and the drive shaft puts  constant pressure on the fibre washers would it not be better to use copper/brass shims to obtain the correct end float?
Your views would be appreciated.

[Benz Dr.]

You reaslly want to get all of the end play from the main shaft. This will set up vibration which tends to cause problems. The shaft will move upwards until it hits ajainst the shims under the point plate - you don't want that. Place enough shims under the point plate so that cam lobe shaft has a bit of up and down movement.
I like to have the end play on the main shaft set so that it moves freely without any end play. The kit has several different thickness of shims so you can mix and match until you get the right amount. I'd say some are maybe .005 '' and some are only .0005 '' so they're not very thick.