Author Topic: Back Axle ratio change  (Read 4329 times)

beemergb

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Back Axle ratio change
« on: February 28, 2010, 09:26:38 »
Hello I am looking for a better back axle ratio ,as mine is the dreaded 408 ,I would like to install the 3.46 are the parts interchangable with other Mercedes axles,as it seems  you say the word Pagoda the prices seem to increase !Hope you can help , Harry

tel76

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Re: Back Axle ratio change
« Reply #1 on: February 28, 2010, 12:12:05 »
Hello Harry,
I have just purchased a complete rear axle from a 280se 3.5 w108,i have dismantled it and everything is serviceable (except wheel bearings and it has two of the expensive wheel bearings fitted )the ratio is a 3.46
Eric

graphic66

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Re: Back Axle ratio change
« Reply #2 on: February 28, 2010, 18:39:09 »
The low gearing is to let the engine run in it's torque range for the best performance. These are not lumbering v-8's, these are high reving low horsepower motors that love to wind out when in good condition. Why do performance cars run at 10,000+ RPM, because that is where the power is. Put the engine on a dyno, max HP and torque on these motors is very close, drop below those RPM's and you have a sluggish slug. Some very smart people designed these cars and spent a lot of time on the gearing and tuning. Once you get used to the idea these wonderful motors are music to your ears rolling down the highway at 4000RPM. If you have an automatic you really need that 4:08 to take off in second. I had a sudden diff failure and went from 4:08 to the 3:97 and it made a little difference. I prefer the old 4:08 for stop light tire squeeling, but the new axle is disc brake and oh what a difference from drum. But I would not have went to the trouble and expense for the gear change or brake change as the car was great before. Just my opinion, I like reving motors and respect the thought that went into these cars.

jameshoward

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Re: Back Axle ratio change
« Reply #3 on: February 28, 2010, 19:00:03 »
Harry,

Have a play with the search engine; it's very good, and there's a ton of info about axle swaps, ratios, etc. Short answer is that it's very doable; there are several options; it's not too pricey (a few hundred $ or so for a new axle) and you should be able to do it at home.

Many have done it and their experiences are posted.

JH
James Howard
1966 LHD 230SL

graphic66

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Re: Back Axle ratio change
« Reply #4 on: March 01, 2010, 15:49:10 »
You can get quite involved with an axle change. Replacing all the rubber mounts can run several hundred dollars alone. Some of those little rubber pieces are very expensive, it can add up. The bearings and seals should all be changed, another expense,  this can take some special tools. Just cleaning, sanding and painting the axle is a big job. Getting those rear springs back in requires a spring compressor. If you are switching from drum brakes to disc you will need a different master cylinder and a very expensive rear brake compensator. The compensator is easily over $500.00 from memory. Also all new lines and brake hose. This is a very involved job that can take many hours to do clean and correctly. You also need to align the new axle, you can build the tool, another time consuming job. You will more than likely need all new brakes, calipers and pads depending on the condition of the donor. Have fun pulling the input spline to put in a new input seal, that special wrench is about $80.00 and you are not getting the nut off without it. Even with the tool it is a very difficult job. I used my gear puller pushing on my socket wrench to hold the wrench in place. Also, if you preset the pinion turning torque, as you should be prepared to find a dial reading inch pound torque wrench, another $100.00 or so used on Ebay.If the seal has wore a groove in the input, guess what, you need a new input shaft, or as I did, I found seal that seated in a slightly different spot, so far so good. Don't forget the clean the axle vent also, very easy.
   This is a big expensive job done correctly. It is not to bad in an equipped shop, but most backyard mechanics will be making a trip or two to the tool store. Those big nuts on the torque arms are way hard to get off, I think they take like a 36mm wrench and lots of patience and in my case a torch to heat them. This of course all depends on the condition of the axle and car. But most donor axles are going to be as old as these cars and will need all rubber pieces and seals.

jameshoward

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Re: Back Axle ratio change
« Reply #5 on: March 01, 2010, 18:31:43 »
An alternative view....

Bearings are jolly expensive, but it's unlikely that they'll need to be replaced (unless one wants to throw money away). I don't recall the rubber mounts being that expensive. You can remove the axle without a spring compressor. I'd agree with the brake compensator point, but $500 sounds extreme and I assume that's for a new part. A replacement part will do. I've heard that some have used a VW part, but I'm looking into that, or need to look into that myself. I need new calipers, discs and pads, but with a bit of shopping around I'm hoping they won't break the bank (I, too, am moving from a 4,08). I don't know enough to comment about pre-loading (I think that's what you're talking about) - I'm hoping to avoid by not pulling my diff apart. As for removing the trailing arms, they are a bit of a pain, but I've written this up somewhere on the site. I did it by grinding down a 36mm socket and used a 1" drive and a long bar. If they're soaked a bit in advance, they'll come off soon enough. May take a bit of heat. I've written up the way we did this and how we put in the new bushes. Not hard, just a bit fiddly. No special tools required.

Clearly my car isn't a show car. It's a driver. I don't want a show car, but I do want a higher cruising speed for the same RPM. I may be an eternal optimist, but I don't think there's any great need to be hugely negative about the job. It's going to be hard, and cost a bit, but I think it's going to be OK. (He says....)

JH
James Howard
1966 LHD 230SL

tel76

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Re: Back Axle ratio change
« Reply #6 on: March 01, 2010, 21:11:08 »
Hello James,
You do not need to strip the diff: to change the pinnion bearing oil seal,its a realatively simple job to do and get the pre-load correct.
Its always a good idea to change the pinnion oil seal.
« Last Edit: March 01, 2010, 21:24:43 by tel76 »
Eric