Author Topic: Opinions: While I'm doing my rear drums should I do the bearings/seals too?  (Read 3423 times)

seattle_Jerry

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Since I have the shoes off, should I go the rest of the way and replace the bearings? I have never driven the car so I don't know if they are bad. The rear cylinders are bad and the shoes/drum were all greasy/oily so hard to tell if the seals were leaking as well.

graphic66

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I am from the "if it's not broken don't fix it school". I would put the brakes in and drive it around and see. I would for sure drain the diff oil and refill it. It is a good possibility it was mistakenly overfilled and caused the seepage. The car must be on the ground with the axle tubes level when filling or the tubes will fill up and when they level out it will be overfull. I also get them level when draining the diff. Also many times a leaking seal will stop leaking if you drive it around after sitting for a period of time.
  The bearing and seal change is a straight forward job. But it requires a long jawed puller to get the bearings off. I just made one with long pieces of angle iron drilled and put on my puller. Also when putting the new bearings on I put the axles in the freezer a heated the bearings with a blow dryer. They fell right on and when everything stabilized they were on tight. I also put Loctite stud and bearing mount on the bearing to axle contact area. The nut holding the bearing on needs a special spanner also, my snowmobile shock adjusting wrench fit perfect, but you could use a punch if you don't mind dicking up the nut.
   Fix the brakes fill the diff and drive it, that is my advice.

declanobrien

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I have just completed a full restore of rear axle. Attached photos of simple tool used for tightening bearing. It worked perfectly up to the specified torque.
Declan

declanobrien

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Some photos of my homemade bearing extractor.
Declan

Benz Dr.

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I use a large press to push the bearings off. Do one side at time because you can easily confuse the backing plates and put them on the wrong side and upside down as well.

Why would you any sort of lock tight on the bearing? It's not needed at all. That bearing takes a big press to knock it off - it's not going anywhere. If it's loose on the axel shaft you need a new/used axel.
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC