The right tool to lubricate the grease nipples on a 1968 280SL

[Bob G ✝︎]

I have not driven my 280SL that much since the last time a service provider lubricated the grease fitting on thee chassis of my 1968 280SL. I have  the factory owner's manual and I believe there is information on the location of these grease nipples on the how-to forum.

I have some good ramps that I can drive the car up on to. I would like advice on a good grease gun that
has the right size adapters to fit the nipples on the chassis. I understand from a previous post that  
there are several grease points on the drive shaft and steering -box and front suspension that need attention.

Are ramps best? or should the car be raised at both ends supported by jack stands to get  better access to the the grease nipples that may be hidden? And do I need to put my transmission in Neutral being an automatic? And how do I rotate it to find all the grease points? Where are the best places to support the rear axle so it does not hang down?

Is there a place on the forum I can get suggestions and instructions pre written by a previous owner/technician.
Sincerely
Bob Geco
krwaxbz@yahoo.com

[graphic66]

I use a pistol lever full size grease gun with a long rubber hose. Make sure when greasing the kingpins that the front tires have no wieght on them so the grease gets to them. The driveshaft requires long arms and patience. You can turn the driveshaft by hand with the rear wheels off the ground and in nuetral. You may need to get a helper to hold one tire while you turn the other to get the shaft to turn, but I believe, from memory you can just grab it and turn it. For the door hinges they make an adapter to put on your grease gun to make it into a pointed grease tool, it just snaps over the female zerk fitting. Now be careful because all my info is from some web site, books and from personal expeience. I didn't miraculously know everything without learning it from somewhere first. I am sure others will chime in to help with some more appreciated advice. Do a search here on jacking your car, it has been discussed, and please do not go under your car without it being properly supported.

[Benz Dr.]

Bob,
everything you need to know about where to find all the grease fittings is here on the site or in your owners manual. So I would think that's covered.

Out of a point of safety, I would simply take it to a place with a hoist and either do it yourself ( if they'll let you ) or help the guy that's doing it. I'm not a big fan of ramps, never have been, and never will be - it's good way to get hurt ( read: dead ) or damage you car.

 A muffler repair shop is a good choice. If you bring your own grease gun a lot of places will accept a box of doughnuts or a couple of coffees.

[Bob G ✝︎]

DR. Benz and Graaphic66:
I appreciate your chiming in on this Subject. Between the two of you, may I say your opinions differ. I really would like to do this service myself.

I have a four post set I did not mention. I can set it low enough to creep inside and out with a good flashlight and a helper. I have this hydraulic lifting tool for the front and rear suspension that I have never tried out. This may be the answer to lift the rear wheels so a helper can spin and rotate the drive shelf.

I am not too familiar where the grease points are for the king pins. Graphic66 states that the wheels should have a load on them when doing this service? Can someone send me a picture where the grease nipple is on the King pins?  a very very important lubrication point.

Next question,  what do you do about dried crusty grease to remove it from the grease nipple so you can get grease into the nipple? And last, someone mentioned that the steering box had a smaller nipple on it.  And I was concerned about the kind of grease to buy, regular or synthetic. For the correct gun and adapters,  please mention a brand name so that a some show towels and a cold beer will get me through this job.


Hope to hear back from the experts so I can start as soon as possible.
Bob  Geco
1968 280SL

[Iconic]

Bob,
As far as locations and pictures, have you looked in your glove box manual?
I found this very descriptive. In mine, there is a fold out page, on the back side of the wiring diagram is a fantastic pictorial of where all the grease points are with descriptions and individual pictures.
I believe graphic66 stated no load on the front wheels when greasing the kingpins.
I also believe the kinpins have 3 lube points on each of the left and right kingpin. Others can state if that is correct or not. As soon as I finish another job, I will be greasing also and then I can tell you for sure.

[teprngr]

I believe that with the user manual you have in hand already had everything you need to know covered. I don’t think that it would differ unless you or the previous owner makes some huge changes to the car and that would cause some surprises to emerge. But I believe that everything is in the right condition, but before you start on the work you are intending of doing, I suggest you to make clear of things before you start.

[wbain]

You may want to use a heat gun as well, an industrial strength hair dryer. If the grease in any of the joints has solidified, the heat gun will liquify it and allow the new grease to flow.

The kingpin has aan upper and lower grease joint as well as a middle one about halfway along the upright that can be reached from the backside of it. The rear axle has two on the lower hinge.

I use a grease gun with a long flexible hose for those hard to reach spots using a MOBIL 1 synthetic grease cartridge.