Servicing the clock

[philmas]

I have read various topics about this subject, but couldn't get the exact information: could anyone show me (on a picture!) where that :twisted: fuse is?
I just can't locate it!
Do you need to dismantle the entire thing, or is it on the top of the assembly, right under the plastic cover?
Thank you!

[al_lieffring]

I imagine I am the only horologist in this forum. So I guess I should post an answer.



The fuse is actualy the solder that attaches the copper strap to the winding solenoid. It is a special low temperature solder that is supposed to melt if there is an overload. If the solder is gone the copper strap will pull apart from the fitting , if you look closely the one in the photo has partially separated. On this clock it is causing the solenoid to buzz instead of winding the mainspring. I just resolder them with regular rosin core solder when they come apart.

Al

66 230sl
113-042-10-014715
904/396 blue, Ivory Tex
condition: not-as-rusty-as-before-bucket

[dreyer635]

Perhaps a better hi res picture can be seen on http://www.privatpc.no/banff/455.jpg

On my clock I had to replace the hole winding mechanism due to defective spring (on the part in the left corner - arrow 2)
The soldering place is marked with arrow 1

Tips - if you will do som DIY - I bought a working clock from another Mercedes on Ebay, not looking like the Pagoda clock (i think it was from a big sedan, can't remember correctly) - but that clock was much much  cheeper and I was able to use parts from that clock in my pagoda clock. I took winding mechanism and put it into my Pagoda clock  - and it have been working since

Kjell
280 SL - 4 speed

[J. Huber]

quote:Originally posted by al_lieffring

I imagine I am the only horologist in this forum....

Hmm. Now, what is it you actually study?...  

Just kidding -- My brother is also one. John Huber of Tennessee. Maybe you'll run across him sometime.

James
63 230SL

[al_lieffring]

If I were a horological stickler I would call it a dashboard time-piece, because a clock has a chime or striking mechanism. Clock is derived from the German GLUCKEN: a bell

quote:Originally posted by J. Huber

quote:Originally posted by al_lieffring

I imagine I am the only horologist in this forum....

Hmm. Now, what is it you actually study?...  

Just kidding -- My brother is also one. John Huber of Tennessee. Maybe you'll run across him sometime.

James
63 230SL

66 230sl
113-042-10-014715
904/396 blue, Ivory Tex
condition: not-as-rusty-as-before-bucket

[rwmastel]

quote:Originally posted by al_lieffring

If the solder is gone the copper strap will pull apart from the fitting , if you look closely the one in the photo has partially separated.

Nope, don't see it.  I see the metal tab connected to a white plastic part(?), and the tab has a post or something thru it.  I don't see a glob of solder.

Is it that thinner-than-hair strand at "arrow 1" in the picture posted by Kjell?

I'm sure this is the problem with my clock.  I've purchased a basic soldering tool (iron?) and two types of solder (just guessed).  I would like to fix this some day.

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[al_lieffring]

quote:Originally posted by rwmastel

quote:Originally posted by al_lieffring

If the solder is gone the copper strap will pull apart from the fitting , if you look closely the one in the photo has partially separated.

Nope, don't see it.  I see the metal tab connected to a white plastic part(?), and the tab has a post or something thru it.  I don't see a glob of solder.

Is it that thinner-than-hair strand at "arrow 1" in the picture posted by Kjell?

I'm sure this is the problem with my clock.  I've purchased a basic soldering tool (iron?) and two types of solder (just guessed).  I would like to fix this some day.

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

Rodd

The first thing to take into consideration is this entire photo represents approx. 1 square inch. The white metal lug coming out of the insulator is the winding solenoid's electrical connection. The dull grey "post" is the low temperature solder, It was most likely installed as a rivet. The copper strap comes from the + terminal of the male plug connector, it has spring tension to pull the connection apart if the thermal material should melt out. The strand of wire in Kjell's photo is something that was added in a repair. The copper strap should be attached directly to the lug on the solenoid. As I said earlier I use rosin core solder, the thermal fuse is a redundant protection that isn't realy needed.

Al

66 230sl
113-042-10-014715
904/396 blue, Ivory Tex
condition: not-as-rusty-as-before-bucket

[al_lieffring]

I took the Kienzle movement out and took some pics in the sunlight to get better resoloution

The original fuse material still in place:


The strap seperates from coil after the fuse is gone:


Special tool (#2 pencil) to hold strap in place:


My clock bench and rosin core solder:


The strap re-soldered to the winding solenoid:


Al  



66 230sl
113-042-10-014715
904/396 blue, Ivory Tex
condition: not-as-rusty-as-before-bucket

[rwmastel]

As they say in the Guiness commercial, "Brilliant!"

I see exactly what's going on with the soldered connection now and can fix it myself!

Considering your status as a horologist, what else should I do to the clock, er, dashboard time piece, to ensure it runs (accurately) for several years?

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[philmas]

Very nice pictures, thank you!
Unfortunately, this doesn't seem to be the problem with my own clock:the fuse's still in place and looks good.
I was about to send it to clockworks, but I still have to find some way cheaper, as both UPS and FedEx would charge $120, which,in addition with the repair and way back, would cost me the approximate price of a new one!

Maybe a regular horlogist might find some interest in fixing an old electromechanical dashclock  :?:

[nick350]

('[!]') JEEEEEEZ!!!

quote:Originally posted by al_lieffring

If I were a horological stickler I would call it a dashboard time-piece, because a clock has a chime or striking mechanism. Clock is derived from the German GLUCKEN: a bell

quote:Originally posted by J. Huber

quote:Originally posted by al_lieffring

I imagine I am the only horologist in this forum....

Hmm. Now, what is it you actually study?...  

Just kidding -- My brother is also one. John Huber of Tennessee. Maybe you'll run across him sometime.

James
63 230SL

66 230sl
113-042-10-014715
904/396 blue, Ivory Tex
condition: not-as-rusty-as-before-bucket

[!][!][!][!][!][!][!][!]

Nick350
r107 SL red

[al_lieffring]

quote:Originally posted by nick350

('[!]') JEEEEEEZ!!!

[!][!][!][!][!][!][!][!]

Nick350
r107 SL red

 :?:  :?:  :?:  :?:  :?:  :?:  :?:  :?:  :?:  :?:  :?:
Are you serious? If you are I can't imagine why.

Al

66 230sl
113-042-10-014715
904/396 blue, Ivory Tex
condition: not-as-rusty-as-before-bucket

[Naj ✝︎]

Philmas,

 

quote:Unfortunately, this doesn't seem to be the problem with my own clock:the fuse's still in place and looks good.

Try:
http://www.jdo1.co.uk/page23.html

Very reasonable and quick turn-round

naj

68 280SL

[enochbell]

Al,

Well, if having more than one 8-day mainspring explode in my face qualifies me as an horologist then I stand justly acused.

But my real question is why do these fuses fail so often (as my did) and isn't it just asking for trouble to hard-solder it (as I did)?  Does it protect the electromagetic coil?  As I understand it this mechanism is driven by a spring that gets "reset" every 10 minutes or so, and that is the click you hear.  

Would it be safer to add an in-line fuse?

Thanks,
g



'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon

[al_lieffring]

quote:Originally posted by enochbell

Al,

But my real question is why do these fuses fail so often  

Would it be safer to add an in-line fuse?

Thanks,
g

This is just theory on my part, but when these fuses fail they are usualy laying intact in the botttom of the case and show no sign of having melted, I think that the material is brittle and they just break off and fall out from stress of the solenoid clicking every 10 minutes. I realy don't think there is any overheating involved here.

tempus fugit
Al

66 230sl
113-042-10-014715
904/396 blue, Ivory Tex
condition: not-as-rusty-as-before-bucket

[enochbell]

Al,

Thanks. I think you are are correct.  How could one doubt a unicycling horologist who quotes Virgil.  I will be quiet now, vir sapit qui pauca loquitur.

g

'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon

[al_lieffring]

quote:Originally posted by enochbell

Al,

Thanks. I think you are are correct.  How could one doubt a unicycling horologist who quotes Virgil.  I will be quiet now, vir sapit qui pauca loquitur.

g

'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon

A wise choice  

66 230sl
113-042-10-014715
904/396 blue, Ivory Tex
condition: not-as-rusty-as-before-bucket