Author Topic: valve adjustment  (Read 9125 times)

wwheeler

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valve adjustment
« on: August 29, 2011, 19:48:44 »
I am now adjusting my valves and I always have had to move the rocker arms slightly side to side when using the feeler gauge. Doing this, makes sure the arm is perfectly parallel to the cam lobe. If it is not, I will get a false reading and it will show to be the correct gap when in fact the gap is .002" or more. I am careful not to press the valve down which would increses the gap.

Has anybody else had to do this? I didn't see it in the valve adjustment tour.
Wallace
Texas
'68 280SE W111 coupe
'60 220SE W128 coupe
'70 Plymouth Roadrunner 440+6

ja17

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Re: valve adjustment
« Reply #1 on: August 30, 2011, 02:21:17 »
Hello Wallace,

We have a lot of documentation on valve adjustment somewhere here.  Try tightening the adjuster until the feeler gauge is locked in tight. Then loosen the adjustment until the feeler gauge can be slid out with some resistance.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

Benz Dr.

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Re: valve adjustment
« Reply #2 on: August 30, 2011, 02:57:39 »
This would indicate that there is silght wear on the rocker and possibly the cam lobe. Sometimes you will have to settle with a happy mediium and pick a number that seems to work.
The intake will never make any noise if it's close to correct. The exhaust will start to make noise around .010'' or if the cam lobe is worn from lash not being adjusted properly. Wear will also occour from dirty oil or the wrong type of oil.
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC

jaymanek

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Re: valve adjustment
« Reply #3 on: August 30, 2011, 08:03:38 »
Hello Wallace,

We have a lot of documentation on valve adjustment somewhere here.  Try tightening the adjuster until the feeler gauge is locked in tight. Then loosen the adjustment until the feeler gauge can be slid out with some resistance.

Mine have only gone quiet after doing them this way.. If you do it the normal way of tightening until the feeler feels tight then they will infact be far too loose.


glenn

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Re: valve adjustment
« Reply #4 on: August 30, 2011, 09:10:44 »
Benz Dr.,  What oil do you recommend?

Brian Davidson

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Re: valve adjustment
« Reply #5 on: August 30, 2011, 10:47:20 »
I have a genius friend who never uses a feeler guage. He tightens and closes the gap completely, then knowing the pitch of the thread,he loosens the adjuster the appropriate number of degrees to obtain the correct clearance. This gets over problems of convexity and concavity of worn contacting surfaces

Benz Dr.

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Re: valve adjustment
« Reply #6 on: August 30, 2011, 16:18:52 »
Benz Dr.,  What oil do you recommend?

I've used diffferent oils in my cars ovr the years. Right now I'm using Quater State 10W40 full synthetic with about a 1/2 bottle of Lucas oil stabilizer. The only oil I know for sure that has zinc anti wear additive is Royal Purple. Not sure where you can get that.

I would think that any 15W40 used in Diesels would also have zinc but you should ask first.
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC

thelews

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Re: valve adjustment
« Reply #7 on: August 30, 2011, 16:38:13 »
http://www.penngrade1.com/

Most any weight you like.
Enjoy some pictures at this link:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8292359@N06/sets/72157603240571101/show/

John - Wisconsin
1967 Early 250 SL Red/Caviar, Manual #1543
1961 190 SL 23K miles
1964 Porsche 356
1970 Porsche 911E
1991 BMW 318is
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1971 Alfa Romeo GTV 1750

wwheeler

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Re: valve adjustment
« Reply #8 on: August 30, 2011, 19:41:12 »
Interesting thought about the way Joe descibed his proceedure. That makes sense after what I have been doing. I am a engineer/machinist so I know quite a bit about these things and can tell you like Jaymanek says, the valve is probably too loose when set the traditional way. It takes me about 20 minutes a valve by the time I wrestle with it and make sure the tightness on the feeler gauge is the same all the way across the cam lobe. I am going to try the above prceedure and see what happens. Should this proceedure be added to the Valve adjusting tour???????

Another useful tip is to buy feeler gauge strips in bulk. Mcmaster Carr sells a 12" long piece for about $1.50. Not only do not have to worry about scratching or warpping the gauge (just throw away), but you can also make it what ever length you want.
Wallace
Texas
'68 280SE W111 coupe
'60 220SE W128 coupe
'70 Plymouth Roadrunner 440+6

wwheeler

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Re: valve adjustment
« Reply #9 on: August 31, 2011, 04:16:38 »
I used Joe's recommended adjstment proceedure and it worked great! Double checking from the way I had done it previously, I had (3) that were about .002" loose and (2) that were probably .001" too tight. The rest were pretty close. Not bad but it took me 20 minutes a valve! I like this new method because it is very consistant and much quicker. I went back and rechecked and all were right on target. My feeler gauge stock from McMaster arrived in time for this test. Well worth the money. 
Wallace
Texas
'68 280SE W111 coupe
'60 220SE W128 coupe
'70 Plymouth Roadrunner 440+6

66andBlue

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Re: valve adjustment
« Reply #10 on: August 31, 2011, 05:11:02 »
... Should this proceedure be added to the Valve adjusting tour??????? ....
Yes, please! It is a Wiki, you can do it, just try it.  ;)
Alfred
1964 230SL manual 4-speed 568H signal red
1966 230SL automatic 334G light blue (sold)
1968 280SL automatic (now 904G midnight blue)

280SE Guy

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Re: valve adjustment
« Reply #11 on: August 31, 2011, 17:19:56 »
Wallace,

Regarding oil, I use Valvoline VR1 10-30 racing oil in Anthracite. Web site is here:

http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/racing-motor-oil/6#b



You can get it at a NAPA store in your area. You might have to call ahead and order the 10-30 motor oil as they usually have different grades in stock. I by it by the case, the last case I bought (12 quarts) was about $59.00 which included tax.

I think your 20 minutes per valve adjustment exceeds my 4 hour oil change job, I still say you're having too much fun  ;D

Regards,

280SE Guy
« Last Edit: August 31, 2011, 17:25:06 by 280SE Guy »
1971 280SE, 6 Cyl MFI, Anthracite Grey with Grey MB Tex

wwheeler

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Re: valve adjustment
« Reply #12 on: August 31, 2011, 18:58:46 »
I use the same oil VR-1 but I use 20w-50 because Dallas is now considered desert country (64 days of 100*F and counting). I am sure using 20W in the north would be like honey. Try getting that VR1 of your hands! It clings like crazy.
Wallace
Texas
'68 280SE W111 coupe
'60 220SE W128 coupe
'70 Plymouth Roadrunner 440+6