Cold Start Valve

[bneville]

I have 64 230SL with a 280 engine.  My cold start valve is giving me fits. The engine is running very rough when it is cold. When it warms up she runs fairly good, but trying to get it warm is a big job.  I contacted a shop locally  to see if I could buy another cold start valve . They told me I can send them mine and they would send me a rebuilt one for $495.00 dollars.  Seems high. I am in the Savannah, Ga area. Any helpful hints out there.

Thank you,
Brian

[ja17]

Hello Brian,

I suggest that you contact one of the injection pump re-builders on this site to go over your CSV. You can send it to them yourself and save lots.

 
You need to make sure your Warm Running Device (WRD) is operating properly first.
Sounds like your cold idle may be rich. You may want to do the "split linkage test" to confirm this, then remove some oval shims. Go through "The Linkage Tour" first. Get back with us on the details if you are not familiar with all these procedures.

[glenn]

Brian, Doubt your problem is the CSV.   A simple test....     Try this.  The engine is running and warm,  put 12 volts on the CSV for a fraction of a second, it should click and the engine should respond by higher or lower rpm.  If there is no click, the solenoid is suspect.  If it clicks and there is no engine rpm change, the valve is suspect or the gas line is plugged, etc.

   The CSV squirts a lot of gas......

   Next approaches--- disconnect CSV wire,  WRD, 5 mm bolt in rack,   Stay tuned.
  
   Savannah, GA shouldn't require a lot of cold starting aid like the Black Forest in winter.....

[twistedtree]

Yes, this sounds more like a warm running device (WRD) that is stuck.  The CSV is just for getting the car started.

[bneville]

Thanks for the help. I will check that out.

Brian