Author Topic: Hirschmann Automatic Antenna (Read 17183 times)

n/a · « **on:** March 05, 2003, 14:52:47 »

I have removed my old hirschmann antenna, and am looking to replace it with what my data card says the car originally came with- automatic antenna. Has anyone purchased and/or installed one. What model does it take. I have been told it installs from inside the cabin??

Cees Klumper · « **Reply #1 on:** March 05, 2003, 15:54:35 »

Here's some info from the Yahoo! archives that is on point:
Original type Hirschmanns ARE available (at a price), together with used ones. You can buy a used one for between $50 and $200. Then you just sit hoping it will work (and it'll do it for a long time). There's a company that fully refurbishes original antennas of the correct type and sells them with a one year guarantee. They're like new and are quite expensive (don't remember but could be around $600) but they're by far the best antennas in the world. It rises perfectly vertically when you turn your radio on."
Hope this helps. Personally, if I would want to put in an automatic antenna, I would just put in a modern Hirschmann, can't be more than $100? Mercedes does this as well, when an old part is NLA, they will sell a modern replacement and call it "original" because in their eyes, it is. Anyway, as you can tell I'm not a stickler for such details.
Cees

white 1969 280 SL

n/a · « **Reply #2 on:** March 05, 2003, 17:49:25 »

Hey SD,
I just ordered a universal hirshmann
on ebay (power) under 50.00 should have it in a couple of days,I'll let you know if it works out for me.
Slugger 66

ja17 · « **Reply #3 on:** March 05, 2003, 20:34:53 »

Hello,
The original electric antennas are very large and heavy. They are literally like tanks compared to lightweight units of today. Eventually, water collected in these original units after the drains became plugged. The resulting corrosion reeked havoc on all the dissimilar metals inside. The units are hard to repair, besides being complex, replacement parts are not readily available. If you have a unit that has not sat with water inside it may be able to be salvaged. Otherwise you'll may need to make a part or two on a lathe or will need a parts unit for spares.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

n/a · « **Reply #4 on:** March 05, 2003, 23:47:26 »

If the original antennas are not the best route, who has installed a replacement, which model ? and are they satisfied.

Naj ✝︎ · « **Reply #5 on:** March 06, 2003, 04:16:39 »

I used a 'Beru' on my 230. Cost around Euro 50.00 and works fine.

naj
hobel 65 230SL
jalopyno 68 280SL

Douglas · « **Reply #6 on:** March 06, 2003, 14:57:32 »

a friend of mine who had a very nice 280 SL used a "radio shack" electric antenna and was quite pleased.

it doesn't look the same as an old hirschmann, but it doesn't stick out or anything.

incidentally, when you're installing the antenna, make sure to cant it back at an angle so it runs parallel to the windshield. an elderly friend of mine who used to be the authorized dealer for hirschmann around here told me that was how they used to install them.

n/a · « **Reply #7 on:** March 08, 2003, 14:27:37 »

Hirshmann has a universal automatic: AUTA 2040, which is very inexpensive. Has anyone installed this, does it fit

?

n/a · « **Reply #8 on:** March 09, 2003, 10:13:40 »

SD, I just opened the box, my 2040 was delinvred today. It's small good instructions, multiple shims for diffrent mounting angles. can't see this being any kind of a problem as far as mounting goes.
I'll give it a shot tomorrow and let you know how it works. The fender base is chrome and looks very good, I'm mounting it inthe front fender and hooking it up to a becker europa. I'lllet you know.
Slugger 66

Douglas · « **Reply #9 on:** March 10, 2003, 05:37:35 »

if memory serves, i believe becker here in north america (NJ) will refurbish hirschmann antennas.

n/a · « **Reply #10 on:** March 11, 2003, 11:08:47 »

Unfortunately, Mercedes call "original" any kind of replacement when they do not have the "real" original one anymore!
Experience had with windshield wipers: I got "new original" ones which were not even resembling the real ones!
Anyway, I purchased an old, 2nd hand original Hirschmann and it works a treat but I would say I've been REALLY lucky.
If you want the original ones in perfect condition, you must spend some money. But they're worthwile.
SD280SL, you can rely for Euro parts (including antennas) on the supplier suggested by Ben, socrim@socrim.com
He (Luca) is the preferred supplier of almost anybody here in Italy, because of both prices AND knowledge (above all)

Duro
Italy

n/a · « **Reply #11 on:** March 11, 2003, 18:02:15 »

Slugger 66 :
Please let me know how the installation went, how it performs, and did you install it at 90 degrees, or slanted back at an angle.
Thanks

n/a · « **Reply #12 on:** March 13, 2003, 22:48:54 »

Hey SD,
Sorry about the delay, I've been too busy to get to the car and now it's all taped up
for paint so now I have to wait. But as soon as I can get it on I'll let you know how it
works.
Slugger 66

n/a · « **Reply #13 on:** March 14, 2003, 15:13:45 »

Slugger 66,
Thanks. You must be at about the same stage I am. What work are you doing to the car, and where is it being done. I am presently restoring the exterior. The car is getting the final (hopefully) touches to the bodywork, and should be ready the end of this month for a new silver finish. My painter is using PPG paints, he told me he could use Glasurit, but never has, and I don't want to be the one he experiments on. Are you pulling the motor off to paint?

n/a · « **Reply #14 on:** March 15, 2003, 09:39:45 »

SD,
Besides a new antenna,Becker europa (mono) and a
new dash radio plate,I installed new heater vents,control box,redid controls and cables,every light in every gage,glove box etc...Color change for me so I removed old silver paint to bare metal needed new floorpan on drivers side but rust free besides that! No, I'm not pulling the engine,but I removed everything around it including brake booster,all relays, wiper motor,radiator, overflow,all
hoses ,clips and lines not seriously connected to the engine itself.After taping
off wireing harnesses brake lines etc, I wrapped the engine in saran wrap before repainting the engine compartment, DB131 pearl white it's sort of a pale grey.The job came out great!(don't forget to remove the firewall insulation) Complete new interior change from coniac to
dark blue,new dash paint with everything out came out beautiful by the way. New exaust,shocks, more..... Wating for the rest to be painted, now It's out of my control all I can do is wait then put the interior back in.Hey when do I get to drive?? I could go on and on but I'm shure you know all about it.All being done here in Manchester NH by me and my friend and excellent bodyman, John

Slugger 66

n/a · « **Reply #15 on:** March 15, 2003, 12:24:58 »

Slugger 66:
Thanks for the info.
I am basically doing the same. I have told my bodyshop to remove as much of the items around the engine, so that he can paint a ways into the engine compartment. Any suggestions ? Also he is having trouble removing the center gauges, so he just wants to tape it up, and paint around it. We so far can not get the lower trim off, as the a/c evidently is blocking it's removal. This is not that straightforward, as I couldn't figure it out yet. Mine is being repainted 180 Silver, I guess you always wanted a beige car ...

n/a · « **Reply #16 on:** March 15, 2003, 14:03:55 »

I've never been crazy about silver although it would have looked great with dark blue int. and a new dark blue top that was on the car when I got it.The lower dash trim seemed fairly easy to remove to me. You may have to lower the AC(don't know)but the top of the pad is wedged into the chrome strip. Once you wiggle the pad out the strip is held in with with small screws. Try the drivers side first then work on the AC side.If you remove the wireing harness mount next to the steering column (2 screws)you can get your hand up behind the center cluster and remove the thumb screw (it ain't easy use a flashlight to look first, then it's mostly by feel.) disconnect the oil pressure line,
easiest from under the hood. Once you have the cluster out the tach and speedo are easy.Remove the glove box to get the clock,
radio,(you knew that) with the tach and glovebox out you have axcess to the chrome air vents TAKE IT ALL OFF!! you'll be glad you did. You can e-mail me for more details
if you need to. If I was there I'd stick my hands in there myself.
Good Luck, Slugger 66

n/a · « **Reply #17 on:** March 26, 2003, 18:21:31 »

Slugger 66:
Did you ever get a chance to install the hirschmann antenna. I'll wait for your experience before I order one. Thanks

n/a · « **Reply #18 on:** March 26, 2003, 19:13:17 »

HI SD,
No chance yet the body work is sloooow !!
But I've been promised my car will be worked on all week next week, so I've made arrangements to be there to help as much as I can every day.I'm shure I'll have it done in that time . Sit Tight!
Slugger 66

n/a · « **Reply #19 on:** March 27, 2003, 12:29:58 »

Years ago I removed and reinstalled an automatic antenna when restoring a 250SL. I accessed the antenna by removing the kick panel forward of the door on the passenger side. Its been 18 years ago, so my recollection is a bit fuzzy, but it was not as difficult as removing the wood or even the gauges. There was a wire from the radio that sent power to the antenna. I don't recall where exactly this wire connected to the radio. If I were confident that I could hook one up to operate automatically via radio power, (rather than through a separate switch), I would install one.
As I recall, there is a plastic strip that winds around a pulley and serves to push the antenna to the extended position. This piece had broken and so I replaced the entire unit.

Regards,
Stan

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