Author Topic: timing trouble  (Read 3478 times)

lurtch

  • Full Member
  • Silver
  • ****
  • USA, CA, Santa Rosa
  • Posts: 376
  • " ICON 66 "
timing trouble
« on: August 07, 2012, 20:00:53 »
Hi all,

I have my new engine installed and have logged some miles on it. Sixty miles into my long test drive, the rotor chaffed through a breaker plate wire and stranded me due to misfiring.  I removed the distributor to get a good fix on it. Now I cannot get it back on the timing target. Right now it will run but only if the timing is set 15 degrees AFTER TDC. Have I engaged the drive keyway one tooth off?  or two teeth off?  I am sure the cam and IP timing is correct because I was cruising at 60 MPH and had good acceleration and normal operating temp.

Larry needs HELP
Larry Hemstreet  in  N. Cal.

1966  230SL  (restored) Met. Anthracite w/ Maroon leather
1981  300TD-T (Concours condition, 86K, GETRAG 5sp.)
1982  300TD-T (parted out)
1986  560SEC (totaled)
1991  300TE (gifted)
1998  E320 (sold)
2004  E320 wagon (gifted)
2008  CLK550 Cabriolet

ja17

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, OH, Blacklick
  • Posts: 7414
Re: timing trouble
« Reply #1 on: August 11, 2012, 01:00:34 »
Hello Larry,

It does not make sense, you must be overlooking something or not reading the timing correctly. I would suggest that you set the static timing (engine not running) first (around 2 BTDC) then take it for a short test drive. Follow up with setting the timing with a timing light.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

wwheeler

  • Vendor
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, TX, Dallas
  • Posts: 2898
Re: timing trouble
« Reply #2 on: August 12, 2012, 19:14:35 »
It may help to check the three timing marks on the engine: Crank pulley mark @ 0 (TDC), Distributor rotor at #1 (should be a notch on dist. body) and cam mark on the bearing tower. If all three are perfectly in line at the same time, then the crank, cam and distributor are in time with each other. That would be a good starting point and then you are not second guessing yourself. The IP timing is done differnently and Joe A. has a few posts about how to do that.
Wallace
Texas
'68 280SE W111 coupe
'60 220SE W128 coupe
'70 Plymouth Roadrunner 440+6