Heater stuck on R side

[Ollie]

More silly questions.  The heater throws out warm air on the drivers side.
The lever works and moves the arm inside the dash.
The wood needs refinishing,  but I was hoping not to have to disassemble the dash quite yet.
I would like to drive the car this summer,  so even in Canada I can do without the heater in the summer!
Any ideas for a temporary fix until I do more work this winter?

Thanks AGAIN,
Ollie

[wwheeler]

Unlike the W113s, you don't have  to disassemble the dash to work on the W111 heater controls. Just take off the lower cardboard panel and radio, and you should have decent access. The levers are replaced without removing anything. They are just clippped in.

If the lever arm is actually moving the controls inside the dash, sounds like a cable clamp is loose. For the heat control, there is one clamp on the control mechanism and the other clamp is on the heater valve just above the trans hump. All easy enough to get to. I just went through all of mine this spring.

You can also use a cable luber to lube all of the cables for good operation. See motorcylce parts shops for that.

I hope this helps.

[glenn]

Re: From the 'many years ago' file:  What hung up on my 111s was the barrel valves on each of the heat exchangers next to the fan.  Had to pull them and put in new o-rings. ..  If you just want to stop the heat for the summer, clamp or plug the heater hose thru the firewall.   Glenn 617 947 6399   

[Ollie]

Can anyone show/explain to me which is the heater hose going through the bulkhead?
Also,  is there any harm in blocking it for the summer until I can get a more permanent fix?

Thanks
Ollie

[douglas dees]

Ollie: I would clean the barrel valves and lubricate the cables. as suggested by the other fellas. Use the heater a couple of times a year and you should have not problem. You may also consider cahnging your antifreeze and flushing the system
I would not block anything
Doug

[wwheeler]

I agree with Doug.

The valves are easy to access unless you have a/c, then it is more difficult.

I replaced my o-rings along with the valve cores. Easy job and boy what a difference. Just drain the coolant and have small cup ready to catch the drips from the valves when they are pulled.

My one piece of advice is to use MB o-rings. DO NOT go to the hardwae store and match them up. The MB ones are metric and the hardware stores are in inches. You will lock up the valve with the inch sized o-ring. They are very close in size so it is deceptive.