250SL and 280SL parts cars or not?

[sokoloff]

I've got a chance to buy the above two parts cars. I'm toying with the idea of restoring the 250SL since it looks to be in better condition bodywise. Following are the dataplates on the two cars:
250SL 491 503
304G
113 043 10 7
6 00034 04312

280SL 491 503
568H 568H 6
113 044 10 7
60375 91520

Can you tell me what these data plate numbers mean? Any unusual options shown in those numbers? Are these cars typically worth more parted out than they would be restored? I'm thinking that if I want one bad enough that I might be better off selling the parts from these two and buying one alreeady restored with the proceeds. They seem reasonably complete, but will need a total restoration. I found an NOS right rear bumper piece still in the factory wrapper in one of them. Tore apart the trunk looking for more, but that was it.

Len
'59  220S  Cabriolet

[n/a]

Hello sokoloff,
 It depends on how much you end paying for the cars against the
cost of geting them on the road, and what you will get back when selling them when finnished restoring.
 There not cheap to restore. let us know how you get on?

 all the best Pagoda Red ( Redmond Kelly) 280 sl owner.

red kelly

[sokoloff]

Thanks for the reply Red.  Is there much of a market for parts such as the aluminum doors, hood and trunk lid?  I saw that a front grill sold for over $400 on e-bay recently.  My thought is that if I can get them for somewhere in the $500 range, that I ought to be able to at least come out even.  Both engines appear to be complete, so I'm sure there would be some parts there worth something.

Len

[A Dalton]

<<somewhere in the $500 range,>>

You could ad a zero to that and still come out OK...

[rwmastel]

Len,

Hi.  Nice to see you on our forum, I've read your posts on other forums.  Personally, I prefer to see W113 cars restored instead of parted out.  This is because:

1.  I think they are one of the best classic roadsters.  They have lots of classic styling points, are modern enough to be usable in modern traffic, and are very mechanically reliable (once properly repaired).  They are great used cars.

2.  There were only about 49,000 made over the 8 year build history.  So, there is a limited supply!  Why cut one apart when there are so few?

3.  It's not my money being spent when other people restore a car, so it's easy for me to say it's a good thing!  And it does take money, lots of money.  When it comes time to sell the restored car, you seldom get all your money back.  You might spend $10,000 to "fix up" the car, or $40,000 doing a total restore, and either way you probably won't recoup all the money spent when it comes time to sell.  You can, it's just not common.

That being said, the parts are worth a lot, even though almost all parts are available new.  The used parts can be sold for less than new parts, but still for a good price.  I just don't like seeing a restorable car go to waste.  Get them both and restore two cars!

Regarding the data codes:
The 250SL plate is not complete.  It should have two color codes, not just the 304G (Horizon Blue).  It should have a hard top color, unless it was specially ordered with no hard top.  The data card will tell you that.  The 491 indicates a US version car and the 503 indicates the left outside mirror (I would think the 491 would assume a left door side mirror!).  The thrid line indicates chassis type (250SL), and left hand drive with manual transmission.  The fourth line is assembly and build code numbers.

The 280SL plate shows 568H paint code for both the body and hard top, which is Signal Red.  It's common for the 280SL to have matching body and hard top, but the 230SL commonly had contrasting colors.  The 280SL shows the same two factory options (491, 503).

Regarding your restoration decision, you can use the last 3 or 4 numbers in the 4th line of the data plate to see if the car has "matching nubmers".  You will see the last numbers in this line stamped into the hood (under top edge near corner by driver), the soft top (near where the release lever is when it's closed), and on the hard top (underneath the back window).  These three spots should have the same number as on the plate.  Also, regarding the VIN, it should be on a plate on the firewall or in the driver's door jamb.  This VIN (113.143-10-0xxxxx) would also be stamped into the passanger side front frame rail.  It will be difficult to find, but it's under the intake manifold, near where the large rubber air hose meets the manifold.  This is just another originality check.

Have fun with your decision!

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[sokoloff]

Thanks for the welcome and information Rodd.  Since I posted this message I have done some reading and discovered what the 491 and 503 codes meant.  Didn't know about the transmission code though. I assume the manual transmission is the four speed and not the very desirable five speed?

I'm pretty sure that the 250SL only had the one color code, so maybe it never came with the hard top.

At this point I think I'm leaning to parting these cars out, because they are in pretty sad shape.  One of them basically has no interior.  The other one has some shabby sheetmetal, except for the aluminum panels.  In order to do a restoration on one or both of these cars, I think one would need to be insane and have a whole boatload of money.  I only qualify on the insanity part.    However, I do want to go back and take a closer look at the cars now that I know a few things to look for.  Are there any special things to look at that would make the parting out or restoration decision a no brainer?

Thanks again for the help.

Len

[Benz Dr.]

The problem with these cars is there's a lot of stuff that's basically worthless. Most of the interior, drive train and body is useless. The soft top, front grill, grill screens, headlights/tail lights(all red)some body siide mouldings, engine - but mostly the cylinder head, hood( very hard to ship ) and a few odds and ends is about it.
The other stuff like doors, seats, bumpers,deck lid,gas tank, rear axel/front axel, guages etc. sit around for years with little or no chance of any sale.
Most cars get hit in the front and that's where most sales can be found but soft top frames, front grills and possibly hard to ship hoods are the best. Even then sales are slow in coming unless you just want to blow it out below wholesale.

A 220S/SE Cab on the other hand is an excellent parts car. Almost everything is unique to that car.

The main thing is to find a rust free car. The exspense for everything else is roughly the same depending upon condition. Rust is a whole different matter and can end up being half the cost of restoration.

Daniel G Caron