another sort of short ?

[fblanchard]

Hi evrerybody
I dismanteled all the dashboard for changing seals behind the counters repaired all the heating system including broken flap because of a heater core valve blocked...
I'm very proud of it and I would like to be on the waiting list for the expected T-shirt "I did it" found on other post.

Everything went OK for few days and suddenly the blinkers stopped working.
I remarked that the rear gear indicators didn't work neither.
I first checked the fuses and found n°1 blown.
I changed it but it did not change a thing.
I read several posts concerning the fuses and the doors but I did not find the solution so far.

I don't have anymore the fuel pump buzzing it did so for several monthes and the brake fluid level was high.
I think that the floaters returned to floating by themselves as the buzz stopped whithout intervention.

Now when the driver's door is opened the blinkers work properly the fuel gauge has normal tension every thing works even when there's no kee in contact.
The red indicator is on.
When I close the door the blinkers stop working.
The trunk light is on even when there's no kee.

My car is 280 SL euro left hand driving 1969.
Any help would be appreciated
Thanks to experts of this excellent forum and apologises for approximations in english and pagoda...

Fred from Nouméa

[getsmart]

Hi Fred,

Nothing specific comes to mind except that perhaps you put a screw threw some part of the wiring causing an intermittant short or you dislodged a connecter or perhaps some of the wiring is frayed or the insulation cracked and thats causing a short. Perhaps what you don't want to hear but you may need to dismantle again, at least partially and trace the wiring lume... since opening and closing a door has some affect perhaps its close to the door...

Good luck, Joe 

[w113dude]

Having a 280sl in New Caledonia must be fun, Beautiful place.

I agree with Joe, I would also check the wiring harness connectors inside the engine compartment against the fire wall after so many years they need to be cleaned for good contact.

Good luck,

[Flyair]

just as you describe it sounds that there is some short-circuit among the cables. This happened in one of my previous cars and it was just impossible to track down. Obviously, the symptoms you mentioned are usually seen in a comedy films, but unfortunately when it happens, it's pure frustration only.

As dreadful as it may be, the only sensible advice one may make is that you re-do the entire work with a car-electrician fro A to Z,  using the materials from Technical Manual (esp. wiring table). Not that I suggest your workmanship is bad, but a double checking and professional supervision is just priceless in such a case.

Bonne chance et tenez-nous au courant. C'est vrai qu'un tour de l'ile en Pagode doit être génial.  
a+

[fblanchard]

Thank you nice guys for supporting and kind messages concerning our island.
I realise the problem is not so simple I was secretely hoping some of you experts would have said easy it's this or that.
I haven't enough courage to dismantle again and it could cost me my mariage.
I will have a rapid look behind the fuses as you suggest and I think seriously of asking an electrician.
I will let you know when it is fixed.
Kind regards

Rouler en Pagode à Nouméa est effectivement génial.

[al_lieffring]

The first thing you should do is remove all of the fuses from the fuse box and use sandpaper to remove corrosion from the contacts and the tips of the fuses.

The symptoms you are describing could simply just be poor contact between the fuses and the brass strips that hold them in the box.

This would be a good time to replace all the fuses if you can find a set. I know the short ones can be difficult to find.

Al

[fblanchard]

Thank you Al I will do what you suggest.
The only problem is that I stupidely left the doors a bit opened and the trunk light totally emptied the battery ! I didn't realise and I think it is so since one week !! I tried to recharge it the hole week-end but I'm afraid I will have to by a new one. Well done...

[fblanchard]

Auto repair ability

SO I had to by a new battery.

BEFORE installing it I decided to follow Al's advice as it was the only one I  honestely had the courage (and was authorised) to do.

SO I removed all the fuses and used sand paper on the contacts. I did not find much corrosion but did it to the end and put all the fuses back. I then connected the new battery.

IT WORKED the blinkers started to function with the doors closed (which is much easier to drive with) as well as the rear gear lights and the fuel gauge. I was very happy of that.

BUT now when I open the doors the fuel pomp starts and you can't stop the engine with the door closed...

BUT that problem is well known and I already dismanteled (without authorisation) the flotters of the break fluid tank which  temporarily solved the problem. I'm going to search once more in this forum the next step.

As FLYair said it seems like a comedy film but it's real pagoda life and somehow we like it.

Cheers all
Fred

[Garry]

Fred,

You will find that the float has a pinhole in it that has allowed it to sink down and thus open the contact indicating that the brake fluid level is low when it is not.   The easiest way to fix this is to replace the float, fairly simple job of removing cap and mesh filter from top of brake fluid reservoir, taking out the float and putting in a new one, putting the mesh filter back in and the cap on. It is very hard to try to repair the float as the pin hole where it has leaked will be so fine that you are unlikely to find it.

[fblanchard]

Thank you neighbour Garry

A recent actualisation of the procedure concerning the floaters may be useful for me and maybe others if you can help...

So I actually removed the three caps of the brake fluid reservoir and the metal axels who do contact from the floaters. I cleaned everything and the floaters float lonely each in it's compartment.

I hesitate removing the center mesh filter because it seems I have to force a bit. Is it normal ? I don't want to break anything.

And do the floaters pass through the lateral holes or the center one ? I already noticed that the rear one has a little brown "bulb" around the pin hole which seems "pathologic".

In case of replacement do you know a provider ?

Thanks for assistance
Fred

[Garry]

The floats need to raise enough to push in the two pins in the cap that then open/close off the electrical contact. The mesh does come off, just carefully getting it off.

I think Dan Caron known as Benz Dr (benzbarn@kent.net) on the forum had some available, send him a PM to see if he still does as I got one from him some years ago, otherwise they need to be ordered from a MB Dealer but I do not have the part number.  Maybe someone else can chime in here.

Garry