How much leather do I need to do the dash?

[ptooner]

The dash is the last portion of my interior to be renewed, I've been working on the rest for several years.  Apparently I have to order bulk leather for this portion instead of pre-cut pieces.  Does anyone know how much I need to order?  It doesn't look like a lot of material to me.  Any other tips would be appreciated.  I've been buying the rest of the cognac leather from World Upholstery.

Gerry

[69280sl]

I think World Upholstery would be able to advise you.

Gus

[Jonny B]

66 and Blue has also just done some of this work, and should be able to help.

[enochbell]

Just a word of caution, the inside radius on the upper corner dash pieces is VERY difficult to get right.  I gave up after a few attempts and took the pieces to a professional restorer.  They even commented on how difficult it was, they said they needed to shave the leather to make it thinner and more pliant to get it to conform.  That might be something specific to the 230sl, I don't know if there is a difference with later models.  Just my $.02

Greg

[66andBlue]

Gerry,
it really depends on what you consider to be the "dash".
Below is a sketch showing the locations of the 32 pieces that came along with the leather set for my 230SL. {I know the numbering goes only to 30 but there is a mistake in the sketch since the 2 door pockets actually need an inside and an outside piece each}. The pieces for a 280SL are different
To do pieces #14 - #21 you will probably need 1/2 hide. If you also need to do #13, #22 and #23, and want in addition the 2 panels in the footwells and the one in the center (above the tunnel) to be covered in leather then get a full hide. Be prepared that you may have to do #14 or #15 twice before you get the corners right as Greg pointed out!
Also the prep work is different for a 230SL dash and a 280SL - ask if you need more info and good luck.
Are you also planing to restore the hard top? There is another large piece around the base that you will need.

[ptooner]

Thanks, very helpful diagram.  I do need to do 14-21.  Actually only the top dash pieces are the real problem.  (14, 15, 16)  A previous owner removed the leather and left the vinyl underlayment which doesn't really match.  The lower dash sections are in good condition (17-21) but somewhat discolored so I guess I'll replace them also while I'm at it.   About the difficult curves, while doing the door pockets (hard pockets on my model) I learned that soaking the leather in hot water made it quite easy to shape.  I just pulled it into shape with clothes pins and tape and let it dry then glued it afterward and it seemd to do fine.  I guess I'll have to see how the dash corners work out.

Gerry

[66andBlue]

Do you have a 230SL or a Euro 280SL with hard door pockets?
Just curious.

[zoegrlh]

Gerry,
Also as a reminder, you will glue the leather over the vinyl pieces 11-15, 18-21.  Do not remove the vinyl w/padding, factory just glued leather on vinyl w/padding pieces if the SL was ordered with the leather option and also did not matter if the vinyl pieces were of the same color.  Also you might want to consider to do 27-30 since you will have a lot of leather left over.  For all my pieces, 11-16, 18-25, 27-30 only took 1/2 hide.  I had pieces 5-8, and 26 come pre-cut, and not part of the 1/2 of hide, and 9 & 10 were sewn and ready to stretch on door panels.  Just remember to cut your pieces as close as you can, that way you are not wasting pieces of the hide.  I laid all my pieces out on hide first and penciled my cuts.
Good luck,
Bob   

[66andBlue]

... Also as a reminder, you will glue the leather over the vinyl pieces 11-15, 18-21.  Do not remove the vinyl w/padding, factory just glued leather on vinyl w/padding pieces ....

This may apply only to 280SL dash padding, for a 230SL dash it is not the best approach!
The space between the instrument cluster cover (#16) and the pieces on both sides is extremely tight and only an extremely thin additional leather layer can be squeezed in between. Also note that this piece is made from molded plywood (later replacement and current reproductions are made from aluminum) and the MB-tex or leather is glued directly on the wood. There is a Moltopren-like (but more dense) layer of foam on the front of #14 and #16 that is easily damaged - be very careful when you remove the vinyl, especially in the corners.

[zoegrlh]

Alfred is correct for 230 SL.  On 280 SL the vinyl stays on the molded wood instrument cluster, and leather is glued to it.  The vinyl has a foam rubber layer between it and molded wood.  This was the new safety requirements, padded dash and soft rubber knobs and heater/air slides.
Bob

[dseretakis]

I've heard that the cognac leather available today doesn't hold up well. That is the darker areas wear off. Does anyone have any experience with this?

[71Beige280SL]

A few comments having just completed an interior restoration. I may not be using the correct terms but the person restoring my car had to send the first set of cognac leather back. It seems there are two types of cognac leather..."American" and "European". As I understand it, the American leather does not hold up well. It has a different grain structure that I would describe as veined or streaked. The European leather has a more speckled look to it and is thicker and better quality. The restorer did have to shave the leather for the dash to get it to fit. He had to send it out. I guess shaving leather is tricky and you need someone who has a lot of experience and the right equipment.

[dseretakis]

Good to know. So where does one source the "European" cognac leather?