Torsion bar bushings

[jeffc280sl]

There has to be a clever way to slide the spacing tube off the hex bolt so that I can replace the bushings.  Anybody know of one?  I don't want to use vice grips which will bend the tube.

Thanks

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

[Cees Klumper]

Hello Jeff - I am not sure I understand your problem. I replaced my bushings some time ago with polyurethane, and the whole job (including removal of the tubes) cost me maybe a half hour - it was a straight bolt-off / bolt-on job.

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic

[jeffc280sl]

Thanks for your interest Cees.  I would like to replace my bushings as well.  To replace the lower bushings the hex bolt must be separated from the tube which keeps the top and lower bushings apart.  My tube is stuck to the bolt so I can not withdraw the bolt and replace the lower bushings.  I soaked it with WD-40 last night so it may come apart later today.  I was hoping there was a tried and true method to separate these parts.

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

[J. Huber]

Hey Jeff.

I recall the same problem. My clever solution was my trusty Makita Sawzall! I had purchased the kit which included the bolt as well as the tube and rubber bushings... I hope you can discover a less violent way to get them off...

James
63 230SL

[jeffc280sl]

James,

Which kit did you buy.  OEM or polyurethane?  If the latter, where and what did you buy.

Thanks

Jeff C.
1970 280SL 4-speed

[J. Huber]

Hi Jeff.

I bought the OEM version via Ray at SL Classics. The kit included the long bolts & nuts, the sleeves, and rubber bushings as well as the two larger rubber pieces that go on torsion bar itself.

Regarding these latter bushings, my kit came with ones for the 250 & 280 bar which is slightly thinner that the original 230. Ray felt they could be easier reemed out to fit larger bar but I decided not to try it.
I may buy the larger bored ones individually sometime (or would trade someone who needs 280 style...)

Good luck

James
63 230SL