lubrication of accelerator

[ralbani]

In my 230sl 1966 the pedal of the accelerator does not return easily to the idle position. Sometimes it gets stuck and the idle goes up to 2000 rpm. So I have to put my foot under the pedal and bring it back to the correct idle  position. I have lubricated all the possible connections between the various parts of the system. The only place I haven't been able to get at is the connection between the inner part (the one attached to the pedal), under the dashboard, and the outer part of the system. Some suggestions on how to free my pedal?
Thanks,
Bob

[enochbell]

Bob,

This might be a simple fix...or not.  Try removing the pedal, it is held in place at the bottom by two nipples on a bracket welded to the floor.  The nipples fit into holes in the bottom rubber of the pedal.  Just pull the pedal gently toward you from the bottom, once it releases from the bracket you can slide it off the top bracket.  Now, look at the top bracket.  If it is anything like mine was, it is worn and maybe even notched.  If that is the case, you can fix it with a dremmel or with a new pedal from SLS.  If that is not the case, there are at least a dozen other opportunities for the linkage itself to get hung.  I would start looking at the bracket in the area of the exhaust manifold, there is a roller bearing in that contraption that can also get flat-spotted and cause the linkage to hang.  

Good luck,

g

'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon

[ja17]

Hello Bob,

The linkage pivot on the block, under the intake manifold is usually the culprit.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[ralbani]

Hi,
this is Bob again. I found the "culprit". The mechanism that was getting the acceleraor stuck is the one attached to the injection pump (see the picture)

Download Attachment: spring.jpg
51.03 KB
unfortunately, after disassembling the spring an the bolt that conects the mechanism to the pump, I haven't been able to reassemble it. Also, the injection pump now is functioning badly.
Basically, in order to fix something minor, I have a major problem. Please help: how do i reassemble the spring and the bolt that keeps it pressed against the pump?
see picture:


Download Attachment: bolt.jpg
30.91 KB

[enochbell]

Bob,

I hate to give you the bad news, but if you removed the armature from the IP you are probably in for a big job, if you can return it to it's original position I would be surprised.  These typically require someone very experienced with IP's, that is why every book I have cautions against removing this.  That said, if you have the car running at all you are lucky--if you start (or try to start) the car with this too far out of its intended position you can actually do some damage to the internal mechanism.  Don't ask me how I know...

One of the experts on the board might be able to help you to work backwards to get this at least close to correct, but I fear your IP is in for a trip to a specialist.

Sorry 'bout that,

g

'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon

[ralbani]

quote:Originally posted by enochbell

Bob,

I hate to give you the bad news, but if you removed the armature from the IP you are probably in for a big job, if you can return it to it's original position I would be surprised.  These typically require someone very experienced with IP's, that is why every book I have cautions against removing this.  That said, if you have the car running at all you are lucky--if you start (or try to start) the car with this too far out of its intended position you can actually do some damage to the internal mechanism.  Don't ask me how I know...

One of the experts on the board might be able to help you to work backwards to get this at least close to correct, but I fear your IP is in for a trip to a specialist.

Sorry 'bout that,

g

'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon

Thank you,
I think this is it. I am ready to sell the car. Too complicated for me and too full of bad surprises. I really have enough. Don't you all?
Bob

[Raymond]

Bob, these cars aren't for everyone.  However, once you "skin you knees" a few times, you'll begin to understand what is complex, what isn't, and why.  If the only thing wrong with your car is the FI pump, it would be shame to sell it out of temporary frustration.  

The FI pump is not that hard to remove and ship to an expert.  It may cost $100 to get it put back together and properly set-up.  Re-installation requires attention to the timing marks and care attaching the fuel lines, but that's about it.

This bolt is a lesson that German engineering is not always obvious from the surface.  Information is key before removing anything.  If you really don't enjoy learning the systems of the car, their interrelations, and being able to tweak them, then perhaps you should sell.  But it will be easier to do if it's running.

Ray
'68 280SL 4-spd Coupe

[ralbani]

Hi, g,
last night (I live in Rome) I was at the end of my patience. I own the car since 1979, so I am not a novel. But I have had it always repaired and serviced by professionals. Lately I have tryed a few times to use my hands, with little success. The point with my car is that I have not been able to enjoy a smooth running for more than two years in a row because of an endless list of problems. Now it's the fuel pump, now it's the fuel tank rust, now it's the injection pump, now it is the top of the radiator that leaks water, now it's the clutch cylinders, now it's the accelerator that gets stuck, now it is again the injection pump. I don't see how this could be interesting or enjoying.
Anyway, I managed to reassemle the part that I had uncautiously removed and the car is running. So I can take it to a pump specilaist here in Rome. But, remember: here it is now "Ferragosto", time in which there is nobody working. So I'll have to wait about ten days before having anything done. And I was thinking of taking a ride on my pagoda tomorrow. The weather here is really at its best for this kind of thing. Amen,
thank you again for your help,  
bob

quote:Originally posted by ralbani

quote:Originally posted by enochbell

Bob,

I hate to give you the bad news, but if you removed the armature from the IP you are probably in for a big job, if you can return it to it's original position I would be surprised.  These typically require someone very experienced with IP's, that is why every book I have cautions against removing this.  That said, if you have the car running at all you are lucky--if you start (or try to start) the car with this too far out of its intended position you can actually do some damage to the internal mechanism.  Don't ask me how I know...

One of the experts on the board might be able to help you to work backwards to get this at least close to correct, but I fear your IP is in for a trip to a specialist.

Sorry 'bout that,

g

'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon

Thank you,
I think this is it. I am ready to sell the car. Too complicated for me and too full of bad surprises. I really have enough. Don't you all?
Bob

[enochbell]

Bob,

I'm with Raymond on this, I did not mean to sound too alarming about the pump.  I just know that getting the arm back on properly is not a DIY job, it requires a specialist with special tools.  And even though the list of other items you mention seems long enough, none of them are too bad.  When you go to reinstall the pump just ask, there is no trick to it, one needs to be careful about the timing marks as they differ by type of pump (early or late).  The tank and radiator will also require a shop familiar with these jobs, but not necessarily a Mercedes specialist.  Every thing else is "plug and play" so DON'T GIVE UP.  After all its an old car and, just like everything else, is subject to some failures over time.

BTW, my wife and I spent a delightful week in your City last fall, stayed with my daughter who was a student in Rome and stayed in her apartment on Piaza Navonna.  I cherish the memories.  The people, the food, the art.  Just one question: do the cab drivers have some kind of exchange program with NYC?  Yikes!

Best,

g

'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon

[keesing]

quote:This bolt is a lesson that German engineering is not always obvious from the surface. Information is key before removing anything.

This is soooo true, and I think each of has to learn it the hard way! I had a weird incident with my 260... a tree branch fell and clipped my door handle off - found a used one from a Forum member, and thought I could easily handle replacing the handle. I removed the door panel and all 100+ connecting screws, clips etc. - 3 hours later I still couldn't get the handle in place and working. After another 3 hours the next day... frustrated, I went to my MB Tech! After making me promise to never touch the car again, without at least a call to him, he removed one screw and an allen bolt, removed the remains of the broken handle and popped in the new one (six minutes total) - NO CHARGE for the handle then he spent 2 hours replacing my door panel! INFORMATION IS THE KEY!    :oops:

1967 250SL Signal Red
1969 280SL "Tweety Bird Yellow"
1987 260E Charcoal

[ralbani]

I appreciate the support of all you guys.
I will take advantage of the forum to ask one more piece of information: where can I buy a book on maintenace and repair of the 230sl, if there is any?
Thanks again,
Bob
   

quote:Originally posted by enochbell

Bob,

I'm with Raymond on this, I did not mean to sound too alarming about the pump.  I just know that getting the arm back on properly is not a DIY job, it requires a specialist with special tools.  And even though the list of other items you mention seems long enough, none of them are too bad.  When you go to reinstall the pump just ask, there is no trick to it, one needs to be careful about the timing marks as they differ by type of pump (early or late).  The tank and radiator will also require a shop familiar with these jobs, but not necessarily a Mercedes specialist.  Every thing else is "plug and play" so DON'T GIVE UP.  After all its an old car and, just like everything else, is subject to some failures over time.

BTW, my wife and I spent a delightful week in your City last fall, stayed with my daughter who was a student in Rome and stayed in her apartment on Piaza Navonna.  I cherish the memories.  The people, the food, the art.  Just one question: do the cab drivers have some kind of exchange program with NYC?  Yikes!

Best,

g

'64 230sl, fully sorted out...ooops, spoke too soon

[rwmastel]

These books are available through many sources (www.google.com always helps!)
http://www.sl113.org/publications.asp

Rodd
Powell, Ohio, USA
1966 230SL, Euro, Auto, Leather, both  tops
1994 E420

[dwilli3038]

you can also get the CD from MB with all their service proceedures. I have found it quite helpfull

Daryl
'64 230 SL
Serial # 508

[Cees Klumper]

Hello Bob - sorry to hear about the long list of issues. I can only say that I have owned my car for 7 years now and, once some issues from the previous owner's neglect were corrected, in all those seven years I experienced a poor running issue only once, when ignition wiring went bad (a set that was only 2 years old). A specialized mechanic sorted this out for me.
When I bought the car, I knew nothing about it, and now I do practically all maintenance myself. More than 95% of the required knowledge came from this group of very helpful people. Any issue you have, several of us have gone through it before, and several very active posters here, for example Joe Alexander and Dan Caron, own garages that specialize in older Mercedes.
One thing I found is that, once an issue has been properly fixed, it almost always stays good for many years. This contrary to some other older cars, where some things were just designed bad. I hope you stick with the car, having owned it already for so long.

Ciao,

Cees ("Case") Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic