Author Topic: tachometer cable drive  (Read 7133 times)

Sableco

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tachometer cable drive
« on: March 22, 2013, 18:06:08 »
hello everybody
I need the part that fits into the engine block to drive the tachometer cable.
when i remove the cable on the engine side and run the engine it rotates but it will stop if i touch it with my hand. seems that there is no torque at all.
it is the part attched to the engine block where the cable screws in.
can anybody tell me where can i buy a new one. or better yet if someone has one then i would be interested to buy it along with the cable.
i would appreciate a part number if available.
it is for my 1967 250SL.
Thanks a lot
Basem
« Last Edit: March 23, 2013, 06:52:01 by Sableco »

tel76

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Re: tachometer cable drive
« Reply #1 on: March 23, 2013, 09:24:44 »
You probably do not require a new sleeve,if you remove the small locating bolt you can withdraw the unit,you will find that there is excess end float in the gear,this can be compensated for by removing the bush, fit a spacer/washer to compensate for the wear,refit the bush and all should operate as intended.
Eric

ja17

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Re: tachometer cable drive
« Reply #2 on: March 24, 2013, 04:35:47 »
Hello Sableco,

The top fitting which screws on the bushing may have come loose or the entire bushing and fitting assembly are turning.

This bushing is critical.  It holds the vertical timing gear in place that drives the oil pump.  If the timing gear rises enough, the engine will keep running but the oil pump will quit running !  Your engine will fail soon afterward.

As mentiond a 10mm special bolt "pins" the bushing and keeps it down and keeps if from turning. If this is the problem, your busning is most likely damaged and worn from rotation. The special pin bolt is loose or missing. Lots of info on the subject under "verticle timing gear".  

Check the fitting, the pin, the bushing and the timing gear  as soon as possible. The bushing can be removed without removing the head, as long as you take the fitting off the top first.

Here is a  picture with some information and part numbers.
« Last Edit: March 24, 2013, 04:43:51 by ja17 »
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

Sableco

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Re: tachometer cable drive
« Reply #3 on: March 24, 2013, 12:45:09 »
somebody in the past had put epoxy on the bolt and my mechanic can not take the assembly out. he is suggesting to.take the whole engine out so he can get to it without damaging anything else.
i had suggested to cut through it but not sure if i can find a replacement.
he is worried to use acetone solvent that it might cause more damage to the internal parts.
I really appreciate your inputs and valued information.
thank you vey much gentlemen.
all the best.

Basem

w113dude

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Re: tachometer cable drive
« Reply #4 on: March 24, 2013, 13:00:20 »
Basem,

I would try and take it out from the top, you can use solvents and heat if you need to, there is nothing internally that will be get damaged by using solvents. once you have it out an oil change would be a good idea.

ja17

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Re: tachometer cable drive
« Reply #5 on: March 24, 2013, 16:12:25 »
Hello Sableco,

Which bolt are your refering to? The special 10mm pin ?

I can't emagine going to the extreme of removing the engine. We can get you through this if you get more information for us. Is the bushing itself actually turning or just the top fitting?

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

Sableco

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Re: tachometer cable drive
« Reply #6 on: May 29, 2013, 18:25:33 »
w113 Dude, ja17
I am sorry for the late reply, I had been quite busy with my cars specially the 113.
I am referring to the where the tachometer cable is attached on the engine side,
fortunately with applying some solvents and a lot of muscle power we were able to remove the assembly with the gear that drives the oil pump.
to my great surprise (or may be shock) I found out that the main rod of the vertical timing gear is broken in half.
it was difficult to find a new one or the complete assembly on ebay or many other classic Mercedes spare parts vendors that I buy from online.
so what I did was to have a local machine shop make me a new piece.
the only difference it is permanently attached to the cable end, so if the cable is ever to be replaced then I would have to get another one made.
anyhow this seems to be working fine so far.
however the car took much longer to get it on the road and the cool winter season is over. I only drive it sometimes at night where the temperature is still within acceptable range.
Thanks so much for your help and kind replies.

Basem