Author Topic: Some rear axle work  (Read 19585 times)

George Des

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Re: Some rear axle work
« Reply #25 on: February 08, 2014, 22:35:35 »
Great. Thanks for this info. Sure this can be made up pretty easily.

George

jameshoward

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Re: Some rear axle work
« Reply #26 on: February 09, 2014, 08:27:13 »
Whilst noting that this tool would be quite useful if one had it to hand, I personally wouldn't go to the trouble of making it. I discovered, by complete fluke of circumstance, that a length of broom handle I had fitted perfectly with a light application of grease. I built up the many components on that,then tapped the steel pin through, knocking out the broom handle as I went. (There's a photo on the rear diff thread). It was quite a simple operation once I'd found the broom handle!
James Howard
1966 LHD 230SL

Eminent

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Re: Some rear axle work
« Reply #27 on: February 09, 2014, 08:58:07 »
Please?

It has Nm on the opposite side.
But my question. When i'm done with changing the oil seal, should the torque be the same as it is now (less than 1 Nm) or should it be between 1.96 and 2.54 Nm, the specs from the BBB?

GGR

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Re: Some rear axle work
« Reply #28 on: February 09, 2014, 13:53:54 »
If I remember well, the torque given in the BBB is for when you re-assemble with a new crushing spacer on the pinion shaft. And then there is a whole procedure to measure rotation resistance at the wheel shafts. If you just replace the seal, the procedure is to mark the position of the nut before undoing it and tighten the nut back in the same position once the seal has been replaced. 

George Des

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Re: Some rear axle work
« Reply #29 on: February 09, 2014, 14:31:01 »
The idea with marking the position of the nut is that doing so will approximate the original torque setting. The crush sleeve is pretty much a one shot deal for setting the lower end of torque range. That is you can set it at the lower range one time and that is it- you won't be able to go back and set it any lower without messing up the bearing preload. You will however be able to set it higher if your original set was too low. In order to change out crush sleeve is a major undertaking requiring a complete axle teardown!

Shvegel

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Re: Some rear axle work
« Reply #30 on: February 09, 2014, 18:53:22 »
Pre-load is originally set with a new bearing, crush sleeve etc. After your bearing has run in it will naturally lose a little pre-load.   If the axle is not making noise and everything else is happy just mark it and put it back where it was.
« Last Edit: February 09, 2014, 21:24:01 by Shvegel »

Eminent

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Re: Some rear axle work
« Reply #31 on: February 09, 2014, 20:00:41 »
Thanks all four your answers.

ja17

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Re: Some rear axle work
« Reply #32 on: February 10, 2014, 15:08:27 »
Thanks for the picture of the special tool Pat.  I made one similar a few years back for removal.  For installation I use a spare hinge pin I had.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback