Author Topic: Head re-torque & Valve Adjustment  (Read 2433 times)

kampala

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Head re-torque & Valve Adjustment
« on: November 04, 2014, 00:05:34 »
I re-torqued the head bolts and adjusted the valves with information from this site. 

Head re-torque:  Engine was hot.  Coolant tank cap was left loose to not have any water pressure.  Followed the head torque sequence and only loosed and torqued one bolt at a time.  Used a long 10mm hex, cracked the head bolt loose one full turn and torqued it tight per the spec.  All bolts cracked loose without issue -- two of them were a little easier to crack loose than the others.  All seemed to tighten down a little farther than they were previously --- probably by about 1/8 - 1/4 turn.

This was a bit unnerving especially since the hex tool did twist a little at full torque --- good thing it never slipped. 


The next morning, with a cold engine, adjusted the valves.   With plugs pulled & coil cable disconnected I used the ignition with key to bump the engine.  I could see the tappets while reaching through the window to turn the key, so it worked okay.  Checked and adjusted the valves as the tappets came vertical and in the correct position.  Was able to adjust all of them using the special tool I acquired from one of our esteemed members  :).  Luckily all adjusters moved without the need to remove any rockers.  Even with the special Hazet tool, its still not the most solid grasp on the adjusters --- but it worked and all moved as needed.  Was surprised how little the adjuster had to move to make a big change in the measurement.

Here are the measurements the feeler gauge showed BEFORE adjustment: 

( the + sign means the measurement was larger than the gauge but smaller than the next gauge up).

Intake valves in inches:      .004, .005+, .005+, .004+, .006, .006+ 
Exhaust Valves in Inches:   .009, .009, .008+, .009, .008+, .008

AFTER adjustment:  Intake - all at .003 inches  &  Exhaust - all at .008 inches.

I took the car for a long run after and without a doubt it sounded better and ran smoother.

I wanted to check the chain tension while I was there, but really didn't know how.  It felt a little loose but the tension was different as I turned the engine to get each cylinder to TDC and at times, the chain felt tight.  Will need to find how to check the tension properly --- any hints would be appreciated. 

Thanks to the "valve adjustment tour" and others who've posted their experiences and advice --- much appreciated!

Oz
250sl - later - manual
280sl - 1971 - Auto - LSD